Just went to change the seal - and there is a lot of evidence of corrosion, especially at the bottom of the impeller. Quite a few holes in there.... ! Is there a repair (metal-mend?) or am I looking at a new side casing..........
cheers
John
Hmm, unlucky, i think i read somwhere on here about using araldite to make a repair, try having a quick search on it. IIRC a new casing is
Its a bit of a mission to change too. You have to take the sump guard off in order to get to one of the bolts holding the engin casing on, i've found that getting a 'used' sump guard back on is near on impossible due to it being bent out of shape. Other than that you'll want a new impeller shaft seal, a new impeller shaft and a new engine casing gasket (along with new coolant and gearbox oil). You'll also want about 5 mates and a few ratchet straps to man handle the sump guard back in place.
I was going to post a topic about oil going White, but decided to back onto this topic! I've a 2008 rev 3 250, had it from new and it's a great bike. A couple of weeks ago i noticed the oil was milky through the sight glass. Now I had done a very wet trial the previous week, checked the airbox and there was a little pool of water in the bottom. I cleaned the airbox, dropped the oil, flushed it with petrol and replaced it. I ran the bike for 5 mins or so, and when the oil settled it was clear, so I thought the problem was solved. After todays trial, same again. Oil was milky, so I dropped it, flushed and replaced it. Same again, I ran it for 5 mins or so and the oil settled clear. Could it be that it takes a while for the coolant to weep past the water pump seal ?
Any advice ?
Cheers
john
My milky oil looks like its caused by a split in the impeller shaft seal, from what i can see other causes may be a worn impeller shaft or a corroded casing. Depending on the whats causing it then the time it takes for the oil to go milky could vary.
Just fitted one to my Evo using a long socket just slightly smaller than the seal . It went in very easy but took a sharp tap with a hammer to get it to go flush. Stooped the oil going white immediately.
Thanks for that, i take it you fitted it flush then rather than tap it back against the bearings?
Excellent, cheers. Best way to fit these? I was going to place a drop of oil on it end either knock it in gently with a bit of bar or use a bit of studding and some nuts and washers to make a tool to press in in square.
Which way round should the impeller shaft seal be fitted? I've taken the impeller off and am looking at the shaft head on and can see the metal spring in the seal, should i be able to see the spring from this side or should the seal be up the other way?
Also which way should i be fitting it from, should i push it in from the outside of the casing or should i remove the bearings on the inside and do it that way?
I just remembered, i already have a new casing, its only been on on there for 6 or so hrs riding and has always had de-ionised water and repsol coolant on it. Along with a new impeller shaft and seals.
Sounds like your casing is porous, been well known problem on Beta's. Something to do with the anti-freeze used or normal tap water being used instead of proper de-ionised water.
Couple of mates had the same problem, parts cost about
Sorry, but you have no chance of sealing a rotating shaft with Rad weld.
If you have replaced the seal correctly and you still have a leak then the obvious problem is that the water pump shaft is scored. You can often feel this by running your thumb nail along the shaft.
Can i run my engine (in neutral) without any gearbox oil? I have a tiny leak between the coolant system and te gearbox (suspected impeller shaft seal), have tried to fix it twice now but with no luck. Am thinking of adding a drop of Radweld to the coolant system but the coolant needs to be hot and the leak needs to be to air (and not gearbox oil) in order for the Radweld to set. This means no gearbox oil and engine running, can i do this?
It seems Radweld needs to get hot and then come into contact with cool air (via the leak) in order to set. So i'd have to have the engine running with no gearbox oil in the bike, is this safe (as long as i stay in neutral?)
I have a small amount of coolant leaking into my gearbox through my impeller shaft seals, i've tried replacing the seals twice now and am not getting anywhere. Would a drop of Rad Weld be worth a shot? Would Rad Wed even work as both sides of the leak are wet (coolant & gearbox oil) Might it be worth draining the gearbox oil while applying Rad Weld?
Cheers i'll have a look at that today, i dont want to over do it but sometimes it seems the suspension is working against me while hopping around, i'll try and liven it up a little without over doing it.
What screws and knobs on my suspension do i need to adjust to make my 03 Rev3 a little more bouncy (for hopping and bouncing), i have an 04 manual but not sure if its the same and it isnt very helpful anyway.
Me & my other half went to see him at sheffield last night awesome & he won. Anyone else saw him, only one to get up the waterfall. Poor dougie, Still good but so many better guys now. Bout time i suppose to give others a chance as he did enjoy, was it 8 years as champ.
Steve LEEDS
I was there, he was truly awsome! While on the subject of Bou, anyone know what the grenn LED is for on his front brake master cylinder? Looks like it turns blue when the front brake is pulled??
Just for reference, i can confirm that the triple clamps/yokes (with Fat Bar mounts) from a 2008 Rev3 fit the 2003 Rev3, i fitted some today, straight swap.
So its more than likely that the late clamps from 2007/2008 will fit early Rev3's 2001-2006.
Thanks! Will try using the clutch more, i have trouble using upper body to pull up from bad shoulder, could i get the same effect compressing rear suspenion just before popping clutch?
Cheers guys, i'll stop in at my local dealers tomorrow and see what the standard Beta bars cost, if they turn out pricey then i'll look at an alternative
I need some new bars, am wanting to fit braceles bars so i'm guessing i have a few choices:
Standard Beta (2007, 2008, 2009 or 2010)
Pro-Taper
Renthal
The bike is a 2003 but fitted with 2008 yokes for fatter bars, i would like something along the lines of standard Rev 3 2007, 2008 rise, are standard Beta bars any good, expensive? Or should i opt for an aftermarket bar, if so, what bend/rise/sweep should i be looking at to match the standard Beta setup.
Impeller Shaft Seal, Which Way Round?
in Beta
Posted · Edited by SawTooth
Hmm, unlucky, i think i read somwhere on here about using araldite to make a repair, try having a quick search on it. IIRC a new casing is