No need to apologize at all, i know how the internet can be. Thats some useful info on the washer, will keep an eye on mine and check the torque after riding.
I also came from bike trials and had a hard time remembering about the bake brake at first, i spent a few outings just concentrating on the rear brake and trying to remember it was there and just playing with it, been riding for 5 months now and am now making good use of the back brake.
I also came from bicycle trials and know exactly what you mean, the way i've been learning is just keep on doing it, keep riding and the 'feel' will slowly come.
The idea was not to cause argument, it was to find a definative answer so i don't bugger the bike again.
Engineers blue showed that the mating parts were the same angle (on my bike at least) so have lapped the two parts and torqued the nut up to 140NM. The bike now starts and runs fine, thanks for everyones input
Having just measured a matching male and female morse taper on a CMM, and finding one being 2.858 degrees included and one 2.888 degrees, i'd happily call that the same angle.
A note on the taper: The tapers of the crank hub and flywheel hub are different. They are machined at a slightly different angle from each other (it's known as a ".001" interference fit" or a "Morse Taper") so they stick together, and why you need a puller to get them unstuck. When you lap the parts together, the interference fit is gone (the taper angles are now the same), so the parts are not as secure. As such, I'd add a little more torque valve (if torque setting is given in a range, say 38-42 Ft Lbs, use the higher number at least) and check the torque after a couple of heat cycles (riding sessions) as it will probably back off a little (which happens to new bikes if the flywheel fastener is not checked after a few rides). Sometimes, a little red Loctite ("non-serviceable"
Have made a holding tool but am not convinced about the taper using an interference fit. If the tapers were different angles then the contact surface area will be greatly reduced. Will look into it before lapping/grinding anything, everywhere i look so far tells me that the tapers should be lapped together and the holding force of the flywheel nut is what keeps the surfaces locked together. Will CMM a matching pair of tapers at work later and see what the angles read. Its not that i dont trust you but i want to be sure before i lap anything on the bike.
I replaced my inner case yesterday due to a different problem. What ratio of water and coolant should i be running, currently i have a 50/50 mix of deionised water and Repsol coolant on the recommendation of my local bike shop, is this ok?
While we're on the subject, the kicking back of the kickstart is a timing issue yes? My bike never did it untill yesterday when i sheared the key. Reason i ask is that a mate of mine got a bike a little while ago which does alot of kicking back when he starts it up, it runs ok other than that but maybe its worth looking at the timing as this isnt normal behaviour no?
Top bombing guys, pretty much confirmed what i was thinking. Am clued up on lapping and engineers blue so will ensure a good fit on the taper. The rope idea sounds ok, as long is it wont damage anything? I'll knock up a tool tomorrow anyway though as i know i'll chicken out of putting the rope in the cylinder.
Can anyone post a pic of what a flywheel holding tool looks like? I sheared my woodruff key yesterday causing my bike to missfire and kick back when trying to start it, this resulted in part of my engine casing breaking to bits (Doh). After having repaired the damage (
I know what you mean about Aggs Hill being dangerous, we went there today for the 1st time (as its now the only place we can ride) and it was pretty scary with all those crossers hooning around.
It does look a tad low, wind on a bit of preload on the back, will get you a c-spanner from work. We'll have a look at it tomorrow and compare it to Naths.
Yeah they do need a slap, all of them, they scratch my car or hurt anyone i'm with and thats just what they'll get. I certainly dont want the place shut down so wont contact anyone over the matter. Will see what the next few weekends bring.
I'm liking the idea of a dremel and scotchbrite...!!....but, can't visualise it.....!!
You mean looping the scotchbrite through the bar a couple of times, creating a sort of small polishing disk?
Imagine a 4mm diameter piece of bar (or whatever diameter fits in the dremel), look at the bar end on so you looking at the diameter of it, now take a hacksaw and cut a groove in the top like a screwdriver slot, then carry that slot on down for an inch or so so your piece of bar now has a 'forked' end, now take an inch square piece of scotchbrite and shove it down the slot you've made so you have what looks like a fly swatter (the handle being the piece of bar and the swatter being the square of scotchbrite). Whack that in the dremel, give it some high revs and start polishing.
Just for reference a broken water pump impeller can cause than fan to not work, the hot water isnt pumped around to the thermostat so then fan will not cut in.
+1 for scotchbrite, a small bit of bar with a slot in the end for a small scotchbrite pad in a dremal will work wonders of your not after a super shiny finish.
Flywheel Holding Tool - Sheared Woodruff
in Beta
Posted
No need to apologize at all, i know how the internet can be. Thats some useful info on the washer, will keep an eye on mine and check the torque after riding.