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sawtooth

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Posts posted by sawtooth
 
 
  1. If anyone has the same problem i can tell you what fixed my clutch, ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit and fitted it the other day, bleeded the system and filled with fresh oil and all problems are gone.

    The clutch is now working just as i want it to, thanks to everyone that has been giving me help, hopefully this thread might be of use to someone else with simular problems.

    If anything i have atleast learned alot about my bike ;)

    Happened to me recently too, only after buying and fitting a new clutch did I find out that my slave had been slowly leaking oil into the engine. Couple of slave cylinder seals and a power bleeder from Halfords did the job. Clutch is perfect now and does not drag at all ;-)

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  2. Idle gear was shafted, pawl gear, kickstarter shaft and the bearing the shaft seats into looked fine, so after a trip to my loacal (and really well stocked) trials shop BVM this morning and an expensive shopping list the bikes back together (wish I hadn't of taken the engine out yesterday though!).

    Parts needed:

    2011 Clutch Cover

    Clutch Cover Gasket

    Kick Start Oil Seal

    Water Pump O-Ring

    Water Pump Seal (Didn't actually need that)

    Kick Start Idle Gear

    2x Clutch O-Rings

    Sight Glass

    Total £185 :crying:

    Idle gear damage...

    20130920_124550_zps431d0ee4.jpg

    I do have two concerns though:

    1. There was no trace of any pieces of idle gear anywhere in the clutch cover or clutch basket side of the engine. The teeth do look very rounded and worn though rather than sheared and snapped so I figure i'm unlikely to have found any chunks anyway.

    2. The kickstarter still dosen't feel right to me, didn't feel right when I first got the bike a few months ago and i've probably been kicking it wrong to compensate which is probably why the gear went and cracked the case. The kickstarter dosen't feel like its engaging the engine until the kickstart lever is at about the 9 o'clock position, and this dosen't leave enough travel to actually start the engine. This means ive been having to almost start kicking the lever BEFORE my foot is on it! Which I know is a big no no as it can stress the case and idle gear. Obviously If I stall it mid section I can't stop and start rocking the bike about etc, I need to be able to just kick it again and carry on so really want to get to the bottom of this?

  3. idler gears get rough. if a "part" like a tooth gets stuck to clutch basket teeth, then it can bend the clutchbasket slightly, so check all gears from crank to idler for big nick or gouges.

    the PRO bikes, early on have too much leverage on the case, I know one guy bought 2 cases on a bike, they both broke. I have had 6 bikes from the 04's up to- 2013 Raga. Never broke the case. My sense/opinion is kicking it the incorrect way? also was that the "non aluminium case" it is weaker, so alum case will be better and weldable if it comes to that. since the 08-to my 12, they all have that non aluminium case (cant think of the word/type).

    Lastly I have NOT tried to move my shaft like you have, there is a BEARING that the shaft goes into, mine (changed the kicker gear and idler a few different bikes) seemed to be somewhat tight, when in place like is supposed to be, make sure you have a "shim" and all shims, for that matter in place, while looking at parts breakdowns from gasgas?

    Ok thanks. Will have a look in the morning then and see where I'm at. Will post back on here what I find. Is there anything or any specific way to do any of it that might not seem obvious.

  4. Not sure what you mean? Since posting this ive got the engine out so whats the quickest and easiest way of finding out what the rattling noise was? Is there an easy way of checking things like the piston and crank etc?

    Also if the starter shaft play is OK how come the case cracked?

    Hoping to have it fixed by tomorrow night so help really appreciated!

    If I'd lost a bit of oil due to the cracked cover, what damage would that have done to the engine, anything that would be likely to cause a rattle?

    I'm leaning towards the starter shaft idler gear (is it?) from reading online, apparently it can cause a noise that sounds like an engine rattle, how do I inspect this and change it?

  5. http://youtu.be/9O93JWXvBB0

    Took the bike out today and it started making rattly noises, sounds to me like the piston but when I started looking ive noticed the clutch cover is cracked around the starter shaft. So two questions:

    1. Should the shaft move like this, if not what do I need to fix it?

    2. Could that have been the noise I heard that I thought was the piston?

  6. beta is better no explanation

    beta is better no explanation

    I was a Beta fan til I got my Gasser, to me it rides better, works better and is easier (and cheaper) to work on. Thas just my opinion though and thats only based on owning an '04 Rev3, an '04 GasGas and riding with and tinkering with an '09 Beta Evo and an '01 Sherco.

    For me in a nutshell, the Beta felt well made but the GasGas felt lighter and more capable.

  7. Only use a pressure washer (and then on a low setting) to get heavy mud off, never direct it a bearings, seals, brake calipers, carbs or electrics. To be honest I would advise against the use of a pressure washer full stop - I've seen them do lots of damage. NEVER wash the bike hot and don't use steam.

    Best way is just a hose and soft brush and something like muck off, jizer, janitol or gunk. Then rinse it off and spray all the pivots / bearings etc with WD 40 or duck oil, give whole bike except brakes and bits rider touches a very light mist of wd40 or duck oil. This stops the dirt sticking and it will rinse off much easier next time.

    I wouldn't spray wd40 near bearings as its a degreaser.

 
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