I was going to replace the exhaust pipe on my 85 TY (mono) and when tapping on the expansion box area losts of large pieces of tubular rust or what was baffle fell out. Will it effect the performance good or bad? I have the option to return it but they are tough to locate in the U.S.
I want to extend the actuator lever on one of my ty350's to soften the pull. My question is, do I need to remove the clutch basket and push rod or will the lever pull up and out without removing the clutch assembly?
If you replaced the gearchange cover either loosen the screws as previous post or put your old cover back on to see if it still acts the same before tearing it back apart.
I have looked at the Sammy Miller TY250 tank cover or skin/ seat combo. It looks like it would be real nice if it fits well. Has anyone put one on their bike and had good results? I assume it will work on a TY350 also.
I assume you did not loose the detent ball. I had the same results with my ty350 mono which has a well worn kick starter. I tried setting it back on the shaft so it would be in a upright position so my short legs could access it easier but it made it want to swing out also. I had to move it forward so the weight of it would keep it in place. I also strechted the detent spring slightly to put more pressure on the ball.
In trying to remove the flywheel on my 85 ty350 I could not get the flywheel puller to thread in and I know it's a left hand thread. So I bought a new puller just in case I had a bad spot on the old one. same results. Does anyone have a alternate method for these?
I agree with ducman. I had the same symtoms with my ty250 ts, pull a long steep hill at near full throttle or open it up on the open road or what ever and it would die but start back up and I would have to go real easy to keep it running. I replaced the points and condensor and the plug wire end and never had anymore troubles.
I had similar results with the renewal kit I purchased from them as well. The problem with the one I recieved was that the new stainless bushing was not pressed into the gearcase cover correctly as it looked like the leaning tower if you had it sitting on a table so when I would snug up the cover screws it would bind the shift shaft and you could shift it out of neutral into 1st or 2nd but it would not release to grab another gear. You may want to make sure the bushing is true in the case or leave all the new parts that are in the kit in place and put your old cover on and see if it shifts, if it does then you may have the same problem I had.
So you mean 250 A(Twinshock)and 350(Mono)am i right?
Chrs:Mike
That's correct!They look the same but with such fine threads it's hard to tell. The threads may be messed up and maybe that's why I can not get the puller to thread in.
Can anyone tell me if the flywheel threads are the same on a ty350 as the ty250a? I am attempting to remove the flywheel on the 350 and I am using the tool that fits my ty250a but can't seem to get the puller to "take" and don't want to mess up the threads.
I had the same reaction when I bought a 320 with a fresh top end. lots of compression for my short little legs. Theres a good yt video on the web on starting trials bikes. It really made a difference for me as I was used to a TY250.
I agree he seems to be very knowlegable on almost all topics. Thanks for the comparison on the the weight of the flywheel! Sometimes I wish it had a toggle kill switch rather than a momentary one. I have already ordered seals as it can't hurt.
I have a 85 ty350 that has a surging rpm problem. After it is warmed up it will take what seems like forever to come down off higher rpms to a near idle and then it will surge up and down somewhere between 600-1200 rpm.
Did these 350's have a heavy flywheel back then that causes them to be so slow coming back down to idle? I have checked for air leaks on the intake and the carb has been cleaned as well as a new air filter. Could the crank seals cause this? It really seems to "hunt" to find a idle speed that is consistant.
I just had my first outing on my ty250a after adding my own homemade brackets. It's different! The front end has become very light much like my 175 was. A slow pull up a steep hill with good traction and the front would start rising pretty easy but I will adjust. They do stick out aways. I measured 20" between the outside of the pegs but my GasGas is 19" The center of the pegs are 37 1/2" from the center of the front spindle. I will like them.
Before I retro fitted the new pegs /rests I placed a straightedge flat on the original pegs and marked a line on the clutch cover for reference. and after fitting the new ones the straitedge line was about 1/2 to 3/4" lower that the original. That concerned me but with me on the bike they are on a level plane with the ground so I feel thats o.k. i have yet to try it at a trials so time will tell.
Keep in mind that my "new bike" is yet 10+ years older than yours but I had the same symtoms. First thing I attemted was to bleed the clutch and after a snapped bleeder screw I ordered a new banjo bolt but to meet order minimum I ordered a clutch master as well. Same results, so I removed the slave and found the o-rings in poor shape so order that also. Still the clutch would drag so I pulled the clutch cover off and removed the clutch pack and found that the inner 2-3 plates and discs were all but stuck together with very sticky ATF, I cleaned them up with brakleen and installed and it seems to be ok. In talking with the previous owner he stated that it had not been ran for almost 2 years so maybe thats why the plates were stuck.
I replaced the footpegs/ footrests on my GasGas with inexpensive chinese aftermarket steel pegs. They are actually for a Suzuki enduro but I was able rework them to fit.
My concern is at what angle lets say to the level ground is ideal?
The stock gasgas pegs actually slope down to the rear with the rider on board and level when sitting upright. These sit near level with the weight of the rider and sag of the suspension.
The tytrials kit is a good idea but ny experiance was poor as the quality of workmanship on it was terrible and I had to return it and beg many times for a refund. I then took the gearcase cover and shaft to a local machine shop and he machined out the old bushing which is cast in not a pressed in one and made a new stainless bushing that also used the shaft seal and it worked excellent and only cost me a burger and fries.
Thanks for all the input on my "bleeding the clutch" post! I have taken care of that part and have now moved into the clutch pack itself. I had changed the gearcase oil which had atf in it and replaced it with 5w30 as recommended and it got worse. I removed the clutch discs/plates which were very sticky so I may put atf type f in as I read that it is thinner. The springs are within the specs. I have a spare clutch pack that cam with the bike that looks to have low use and may replace the sticky ones with that set. I also will check the plates for warpage.at what spec should I torque the clutch cover bolts? If there is any other areas to check out that I missed please add your input.
Thanks for the info. It is a fun bike to ride. Would be allot more fun if I could get the clutch to work.
I feel your pain! My old 320 runs well except for the clutch. I am going to pull the slave cylinder apart and clean any nasty old stuff out of there and fill the cavity full of fluid before pushing the piston back in and bleed it again. if still no luck I will pull the clutch and checked for warped discs.If I do find a warped plate could I use one from a different clutch pack? I have a used set that still look to have some useful life left.
Thanks Jon! If I may add a few more symptoms to the issue. Before attempting to bleed the clutch it was not possible to pull in the clutch lever and roll the bike if it was in gear with the motor dead. If the motor was running it would want to creep forward but with a increase in rpm that would go away. Jim Snell informed me that the small hole in the resivor is quite small I used a pin to open it but may try a tip cleaner drill if I find one. I did not pull the slave cyl apart but I did remove it from the motor and pressed the piston in to remove the old fluid, maybe I have air trapped in there? Any more help and ideas would be great as I want to only go to the discs and plates at last resort.
Rusty Exhaust Pipe "internals"
in Yamaha
Posted
I was going to replace the exhaust pipe on my 85 TY (mono) and when tapping on the expansion box area losts of large pieces of tubular rust or what was baffle fell out. Will it effect the performance good or bad? I have the option to return it but they are tough to locate in the U.S.