ausy300pro

Yes that is a standard 175 flywheel, the extra weight is rivetted on at the factory presumably to give the engine more plonkability (if that's a word), I have skimmed off more than half the weight and it helps the pickup but still seems fine at the bottom end, no more tendency to stall than with full weight on.

Yes a quick look at what's available seems to leave a choice of two (as you suggested pedronicman) going on look alone I prefer the Domino levers, tha Amal levers look old fashioned more pre65 style, I could be wrong not having seen either in the flesh, does not seem to be much difference in price between the two, I cannot get either local so will get a spare blade for the cheapo and order a new set, as you say though it would be nice to check feel etc before buying

Can anyone recommend a good pair of levers, I have a Majesty Yam that came with what seem like the most popular (cheap I think) levers on, I was thinking of looking for some better quality ones anyway, I have now broken front brake lever so have to replace the blade at least, good quality ones would be nice to improve feel and power, any ideas anyone ? Thanks

Thanks for info, I have found out that vesty is the boyesen importer, he has a set of reeds in stock and has pointed me in direction of a good local dealer,

can anyone tell me where to get boyesen reeds, I have fitted a DT175 reed block and inlet rubber to my Majesty and want to fit boyesen reeds but cannot find a supplier, can anyone help ? Thanks

are the dunlop's available as a tubed tyre ? the mich tubed tyre is nothing like an X11, only good tubed tyre I know of (hope someone can put me right on this) is the IRC, I have used a tubeless vee rubber on a tubeless rim in the past and thought that it was good value, a new one of those is better than a worn IRC, mich etc, I have been told these are available as a tubed type but have not been able to source one, any one know if this is true or not ?

As posted, for blowing tyre onto rim it hardly matters what size of pump you have, it will eventually put enough pressure in a receiver to blow tyre onto rim and then blow tyre up to pressure, you do need a decent size air receiver though and as also previously mentioned take valve out and make sure your airline is big enough to generate a big enough flow rate to blow the tyre onto rim in spite of air leaking out of unseated tyre, the direct drive machines are perfectly good for a diy type application i.e. most of us working on our bikes in our garages, yes F.A.D. is more important than displacement as a lot of the compressors on the market today are typically high revving direct drive piston type machines that are not as efficient as a lower revving unit, so you could get a 3 H.P. direct drive machine that displaces close to 12 C.F.M. but it will have an F.A.D. less than a higher quality 2 H.P. machine and that is before taking into consideration vane or screw type compressors or the extra efficiency that a two stage piston machine has over a single stage piston machine, a general rule is 4 C.F.M. displacement per horsepower, and the usual limit for running from a 13amp socket is 3 H.P. again this is a bit of a minefield because start currents can be up to ten times the running current on a single phase motor (you get away with this sort of current because it only peaks so high for a second or so) so this can lead to problems with burning the socket out, a better method for the machines above 2 H.P. is to wire direct into a 30 amp circuit (your ring main at home). and yes I know they sometimes come with a thirteen amp plug on ! It all depends on how much you are going to use your compressor and what you want out of it, the cheap italian ones that come from the likes of machine mart are ok as long as they are not overworked,

yes I just assumed it was the Z spokes that were required becuase I have never had any problems getting conventional spokes.

Did you get your spokes ? there is a set of front and rear spokes for sale on ebay now ! seller is Woody mar is that the woody from these forums ?

would agree with IRC as best tyre choice although I have not had a tubed one as yet, I now need a tubed type tyre for my 175 Majesty to replace the tubed Mich (that is not very good as woody said), anyone know best price for a tubed type IRC ? Thanks

I have just fitted a Mikuni VM clone (24mm) on my TY/Majesty 185 and have to say it is an improvement over the standard 22mm mikuni (I don't like the way that the standard TY175 carb has got the main jet in the float chamber), got the carb off flea bay, just upped the pilot jet size and tried it just as it came, surprised it goes as well as it does straight out of the box, gonna play about with main jets and needle to get the best out of it, just had to say it is very good value at

I should be on commision

yes see what you mean, I have been looking on the amalcarb.co.uk site prices are much better there, looks to me like surrey cycles are an agent adding a mark up onto the amal price.

according to site there is not a brass slide available (maybe it is available by special order but if that's the case then that would push the price of any carb up) but you can customise a carb to any spec you want and it's all at no extra cost, the more I look at it the more it seems the people at Amal carb are doing a good job of putting the carb on the market at the right price at any spec you want, as I say no vested interest and have not purchased from them but am impressed by whats on offer on website.

Just checked amal website again and according to website it is

if you like the amal carb why not just buy a new amal, they are not expensive and look like they are available from stock, I have thought about trying a new mark2 concentric on my TY but not gone through with it yet.

Has anybody used any other forks on their TY175 ? I know the usual thing is to upgrade to TY250 forks (don't want mono ones as I want to keep it all period stuff) but I am having trouble getting TY250 twinshock forks at a reasonable price, I was thinking about early DT250 forks or something similar, obviously might have to play about a little with spring and damping rates but would be happy to do this to improve the front end/steering on my TY (Majesty) 175, Cheers for any input

cos it's a mono front end and want to keep it all genuine period stuff, I could stick a gas gas pro front end on but don't want to go that route.

I Know what was that all about I have seen scruffy complete bikes for that sort of money, I made an enquiry about a buy it now on those forks and was thinking about

Slgihtly off the topic (but not much) I want to do the same with a ty175 hub has anyone done that and know how or where to go to get it done, Thanks

Having recently bought a Majesty yam because I wanted to ride something that gave me a challenge to ride on the old style sections and at the same time I enjoy owning and fettling I could not agree more with woody et al, what is the point converting any mono, you might as well just admit that you are happy to bend the rules in any way until it is possible for you to win some crappy pot somewhere. ACU should have strict gudelines that any twinshock class is the same as the national championships i.e. as originally manufactured,

They were for my 175 Majesty and were

My new rockshocks arrived today, they look really good quality, don't know how they perform as yet but if they ride as good as they look I will be very happy, can't praise the service enough either, John even sent them out to me before cheque had cleared, I would recommend rockshocks to anyone needing new shocks for their twinshock bike.

I think you are spot on dixie, I have just acquired a majesty 175 it has modern shocks and an electronic ignition but the rest that has been done could have been done by any good engineer back in the 70,s and as long as the sections are not the hop and bop type I find it more rewarding to rid and needing more rider input than the modern bikes I have owned, I too find it a ridiculous state of affairs when riders convert a mono to twin shock, you might as well just get a 2010 gas gas raga and put twin shocks on that, where do you stop, it's a joke, the bikes should be of that period and type as originally manufactured, yes good ingenuity and excellent engineering but wholesale use of modern bike parts should not be allowed.

Thanks great info just what I was looking for, any problems with balance ? I notice the drillings for balance on flywheel will probably be machined out with skimming, I will mark the position of holes just in case it shakes like a 500 single when skimming is done. (been away hence not been able to reply) thanks again.