kurt

Strange that in this doc file they only speaks of an airspace of 160mm, while in the manual of the TXT Pro '07 it says 180mm for 300/280/250 and 160mm for 125/200. Also point 3 in this doc file says: 'With the suspension compressed to its maximum and verifying that there is no air remaining in the system, fill the suspension with oil, leaving an empty space of 160 mm +/- 2 mm. So do I need to compress the fork before measuring this airspace? How to do this? It looks complicated to push in the fork completely and then do the measuring and filling.... And what is the correct airspace then?

The manual of TXT Pro says the engine oil capacity is 550ml and you can check the level at the round glass on the right engine casing. As I understand the oil level should be visible right in the middle of the glass with the bike straight up. But there's is no way that I can fill 550ml and get the level right! After a drain and fill about 350ml it was OK already. Is this normal? I don't want to ride with a wrong oil level. The English translation in the manual is very poor: on p.22 they say 'unscrew cap (' which is the glass oil level! Then even worse, 'use the dipstick to examine the level', c'mon, there is no dipstick! For an international brand like GG, this a bad translation. I need to look at the Spanisch section to find the real text. Also on the fork oil explination I noticed an error: first on p. 11 it says 180mm air chambre for 250/280/300 and 160mm for 125/200 but then on p.30 there is a drawing and there it's is just the other way; 160mm for 250/280/300 and 180mm for 125/200! I understand that 180mm is correct for 250/280/300 with Marzocchi forks. And how do I check the frontbrake and clutch oillevel on a Raga? The manual shows a level glas on the dot4 oil compartiment, but there's no oil level glas on the raga brake/clutch compartiment.

it seems that some clutch noise is normalon GG Pro. also read topic and this topic Maube there is nothing wrong; My 300TXT raga does also make this clutch noise

PeterB, I noticed you say BPR5ES which is the Resistor build-in type plug. While the manual for the 300TXT PRO says BP5ES, the non-resistor type. On the other hand the GasGas Boy50 manual says use BPR5ES. Can the BPR5ES and BP5ES be interchanged without worries? I've been told some electronic ignition do needs a Resistor type plug to work fine !?! I noticed the Keihin carb on my 300 Raga has a 122 mainjet while there is second jet supplied as spare but this not the same shape and is marked as 260K, I think it is for Dellorto carbs like installed on the TXT Pro300. Strange that GasGas supplies a spare jet that don't fit . Is there any Keihin carb (setup) info available for the Raga? The manual original came with it is for the TXT PRO 300. Is the 122 mainjet the standard one for the Keihin on the Raga 300?

Which plug type you use on a TXT PRO 300 Raga? In the included manual which the manual for the TXT PRO 300 '07 I didn't find it. The gap setting is mentioned in the manual, they say 0.6-0.7mm not 0.9mm as I read here.

I have the same bike and also like to know which oil is used best. I think I have the wrong oil in now. With the engine switched off, when I select 2nd gear, clutch in, I can hardly push the bike. Sometimes the clutch is hardly working, crank turns over, but after some more trying, it start to work but still hard to push. It looks like the clutch plates are sticking. Stushine, is your bike also like this?

OK, thanks guys, I have a look at that. I had no idea brake oil can heat up that fast. My sherco is indeed a second hand bought.

On mine '03 Sherco 290 I saw that the adjusting bolt was missing in the pedal. The bolt to adjust the stop position. I find that the pedal was to high up when not engaged so I fitted a M5 bolt and nut, complete screwed in, and then the rear wheel just turned free and the pedal has little play. But then after riding for about 20min I suddenly noticed that the rare brake was self engaging all the the time! The brake disc was getting hot. After cooling down the brake came free again, how is this possible? What did I do wrong? How can I get the pedal a little lower without the adjusting bolt and nut then?

I have no experience with the durability of those new trialmachine but still I find it hard to believe that the tyres last longer than the bearings. Isn't that what these trial machine are build for? So is there some guide or rule after how many hours of use an engine rebuild is needed? And what is needed for a rebuild? new seals, gasket and bearings? Or also new crank and piston,....?

I'm looking to adjust the timing since it's a hard starter once warmed up. It has a Leonelli flywheel set, the technical manual (Wayne's) says 3mm piston movement before TDC for standard timing adjustment. I don't have a suitable dial to check this and I don't find nowhere the degrees that go with this 3mm. Who knows how much degrees pre ignition is needed for being standard? I do have a formula to calculate the degrees TDC from the conrod length, stroke and piston displacement. But I don't have the conrod lenght and stroke either? Who can tell? Also I found that my strobe isn't reacting when connecting the inductor clamp to the plug lead and the black and red connector to an external 12V battery. On my old 2T scooters this works fine.

Mine Sherco 290 '03 is also noisy, I wondering if Crackerjack had any result with his rebuild? I found it hard to believe that after 6 years the main bearing are already gone. I have oldtimer 2T scooter with 50 years old bearings that stil doing fine.