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The 08+ front and back mudguards will fit yours. The 2010 Raga rep and normal 2011's will not. They have new the frame, airbox and rear guards.

The stanchions look like 04's. try a magnet to see if they are steel or aluminium,. the ally ones are necked down in diameter between the yokes.

The police have no concern what so ever about stolen bikes, Their parting words to me when mine got nicked were 'I hope you manage to find them' You're right the 'Exponential Breeding Bacterial Scum' have nothing to lose, when they get your bike seized off them they will just steal another. The campaign to seize all illegal off road bikes really does put wood on the fire to keep bike theft blazing!!!!

Kickstarts are a rip off. Try find one on ebay but they are rare second hand.

Quenching aluminium will work harden it, It should be heated and kept hot for a while to normalise, then let it cool slowly. When you've straightened it repeat the normalising again so it will be ductile and next crash it should just bend instead of snapping. I have managed to do this 4 times on the same lever (Brembo) before it eventually gave up.

I think this is the wiring diag for your model and it shows both rectifier and regulator. hope this helps. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Kok2002Pro.jpg

If you can get it for the same as new casings for yours then that's a very good price Good engine, lots of people like them.

Yes some good points compared to the 500cc days, Have just watched the 'Unrideables' film with Schwantz, Gardner, Lawson and Rainey. I think it was much better then!

Security lamps do nothing, alarmed locks sprayed with shaving foam, each bike chained to a ground anchor individually and all bikes chained together, the anchor was unchallenged, 3 out of 4 chains were cut off by freezing and then crimped. All chains were tied tightly and off the floor. 2 English chain 10mm Quad link, 1 Kryptonite mammoth 12mm chain. Both of these type chains are probably best used for Xmas decorations. The Billy Basic 1/2" chain from a lock shop was unchallenged but that was the one on a road bike obviously not what they wanted but I have been waiting for another visit.

I don't know how true this is, Some people have said it acts like an air brake and draws the bike into the corner. It may be bull+++e but it sounds like it could be plausible.

Main difference I found on my 250 was on the sunny setting it would pull very very slightly harder at mid range and more noticeably it would rev higher. Try each setting, if you have no switch you can just extend the wires and add a connection. This way you can change it over without removing the tank.

The Orange & Black wires are for the mapping switch, all the switch does is open or close the circuit the same as connecting or disconnecting the wires. You can get a switch from GGuk mine was £6 about 3 year ago. There has been a lot of posts about your fan problem, Usually the fan stops at the same position where the commutator is corroded or damaged and it's open circuit. Check; put a mark on the fan where it stops and see if the mark lines up in the same place each time. If it does and the fan wont start just move the fan a little bit and then turn the power on and then it runs. I haven't had to this but if you can strip the motor it may be possible to recondition the comutator by polishing the contacts. Hope this helps.

I've had loads of Wulf gear mainly shirts and gloves and no complaints. The Wulf & Jitsie helmets look like they are the same helmet but a couple friends who have the Wulf say they're hot and the foam padding just gets soaked. I had a Shiro helmet that was just the same. Think how long you have to wear any helmet for and get what feels, fits the best for you, I recently shelled out for an Airoh TRR not cheap but it fits, is well ventilated, dries quickly and could war it all week . wished they made em years ago, Your head your choice.

Have a play on it, see if you like it! Moneywise its good if you don't need to replace the usual consumable parts. You will no doubt throw it at rocks and destroy it, so a cheap one makes sense

Syphoning, Crank seal (right hand) Centre crankcase gasket, Clutch bolt. can all pressurise the gear box. I found that the right hand crank seal pressurises the clutch side and transfers the oil to the gearbox with the effect of over filling it and through the breather pipe.

Agreed!!! 'Sir Dougie' sounds good.

ATF is 'automatic transmission fluid'. Dextron III is just the later spec than II which will still be ok.

"The new gas gas pretty much balances itself! Are these legal in clubman trials?!?!" I wish mine balanced itself. Yes of course they are legal. Welcome!

I've not seen any insert on mine. The inside face of the fork leg (disc side) is tight against the bearing when you tighten the spindle nut.

11/42 is stock, I run 10/42 my adjusters are about 3/4's the way back. The last chain I bought was much too long but is was the only one available so I just cut it to suit. Best thing is just try the different fronts and see which you prefer.,

These figures are cut & pasted from the owers manual. Gearbox ratios Not including final chain transmission; 1st. 2,996 (35x27x28/16x24x23) 2nd. 2,571 (36/14) 3th. 2,187 (35/16) 4st. 2,112 (36x23x24/14x28x24) 5st. 1,125 (27/24) 6th. 0,821 (23/28)

Cheers Zippy for the approval of my comment, I hope when you next see one under water (not yours) you will laugh. The chrome frame realy does look like what I said

Yep ATF goes strawberry milkshake. I fell off a bank and into 3foot of water, the bike was lay on the bottom of the stream it looked like a dumped shopping trolley. Everything was flooded (Gear box, Exhaust, Tank, Carb and Cylinder) Flushed it out with two oil changes and it's back to normal,

I think standard is 11-42 Mine is running 10-43 but its personal preference thing. SORTED BY TEETH NUMBER: REAR<SPROCKETS> FRONT NOTES: RATIO 42T 9T (OPTIONAL) 4.66/1 42T 10T (OPTIONAL) 4.20/1 42T 11T(STOCK PRO 250/280/300)3.81/1 43T 9T (OPTIONAL) 4.77/1 43T 10T (OPTIONAL) 4.30/1 43T 11T (OPTIONAL) 3.91/1 44T 9T (OPTIONAL) 4.88/1 44T 10T (STOCK Pro200) 4.40/1 44T 11T (OPTIONAL) 4.00/1 46T 9T (STOCK PRO125) 5.11/1 46T 10T (OPTIONAL) 4.60/1 46T 11T (OPTIONAL) 4.18/1

Been alot of posts on this subject, You can use 10/40w light gear oil but not synthetic. The following is cut + pasted from the GG tech bulletin; Not from the manual but bear in mind it is just recommendation ! Transmission oil: Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III Alternatives: NOTE: GASGAS Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time. Oil type warning: DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at GASGAS Spain.