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It's is designed for cars, Not recomended for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

KTM Jerry can

I've not seen many like that, it just shows its the graphics that relate to a specific year/age! My 04 has a 2010 graphics kit on it.

That's right the manual is wrong! You would need to use a strange looking Dipstick I usually find 350ml then top up till the window is 1/2 - 3/4 full. No more than 400ml Oil type is your choice but don't use full synthetic.

Thats about how often I change mine and not had any trouble. I have the same model as you and use ATF Dex3. Dex2 is still okay but must not use the 'GM Auto-trac II' (blue) oil ! Been alot of posts on this subject, The following is cut + pasted from the GG tech bulletin; Transmission oil: Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III Alternatives: NOTE: GASGAS Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time. Oil type warning: DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at GASGAS Spain.

I have cut and pasted this from trialspartsusa; 2004 and newer (after July 2003) Example: VTRGG 3002 D093 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG =Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 3002: 30 = 300 model. 02 = (02 = year of Europe homogulation N/A USA) D093: D = 2003 ALPHA CODE FOR MODEL YEAR. 09 = Manufacture month (9TH month) September. 3 = Year of manufacture 2003. 9955 = sequential chassis number. (9,955th built in this year.) “Alpha” model year codes Model engine size codes D = 2003 J = 2008 12 = 125cc E = 2004 K = 2009 20 = 200 model (175cc) F = 2005 L = 2010 25 = 250cc G = 2006 M = 2011 28 = 280 model (272cc) H = 2007 N = 2012 30 = 300cc

On a GG pro model 2005, There should be a letter 'F' in the middle of the frame number.

I did the Steering head bearings over the weekend. Borrowed a slide hammer for work to get the race's out of the frame, I would'nt touch them. I had to resort back to a lengthy drift and 4pounder! Not much can defend its self when threatened with this. Removed the lower bearing of the steerin spindle by pressing the spindle downwards, very easy this way.

Thats a messy one. Your signature doesn't apply in this 'case'

I bent 2 genuine pedals and only managed to straighten 1 of them, the other was cracked most of the way through. Replaced with an after market one which I bent and restraightened several times. I would prefer a ductile one that I can straighten than a brittle one that snaps off. and less than half the price of a GG one.

Get more wear out of it. Carry on and see if the leak gets worse, if so then maybe try using a tyre repair strip to plug it up.

[This info put out by the same people that recomended Mobile One for years and the Blue GM Auto Trac for the Pro`s.] Ah this must ave been before my time, only started doing trials about 4 years ago. I use ATF and I'm happy with it

Since my last post, I have found the this clip in the Tech Bulletin; so I've Cut and pasted it below. Transmission oil: Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III Alternatives: NOTE: Gas Gas Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time. Oil type warning: DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at Gas Gas Spain.

Its synthetic oil that is the no no, and does what you say above, The recommendations can be read on trialspartsusa web site

Sunshine setting is when the larger button is pressed in.

The resistor is only to quell radio frequencey that could interfere with some types of electronic ignition. There is no effect on performance.

It should have in what the manual says 'BPR5ES' and 70:1 fuel mix. I am assuming you are in the UK But be aware there are a few mistakes in some of the manuals.

Welcome to TC, Careful trials may takeover your life Update your profile so we know where you're from and maybe meet people to ride with.

The older model (pre pro) used the same bearing 6004 front and back. Pro models now use 61905 in the front.

Its the SAE, API or Dextron specification that is the important factor, not necessarily the manufacturer name

Minimum thread engagement is 1x the thread diameter, but when its screwed into aluminium add 2 extra thread pitches. eg M5 bolt 7mm. Never tighten a bolt to the bottom of a hole! With a nut & bolt the thread must pass through the nut, if you measure the thickness of full nut it shall be equal to the bolt diameter.

Reading the posts here its posible we may have all been brothers in a previous life; We are all lazy, unfit, have the same skills in falling off and destroying our bikes.

I have involuntarily tested the Plastic bolts and they did the job though I have got a steel one in the centre position so I may change it but as we know its the side ones that do the most damage.

Missing a manifold, which one are you missing, between the carb and crankcase or the exhaust? For spares give GGUK a call.

I like your bar ends idea some Stainless Steel bolts would look bling if you're considering a mark II version. Instead of Skinny cable ties I use plastic registration plate nuts + bolts as they will shear easier and save the the expensive fender. We share the same skills for jamming throttle tubes up with crud I have to clean mine very often.