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Letting it cool down slow as posible is what does the anealing, as quenching will harden it! Another tip is to re aneal it after you straighten it so when you bash it it should just bend instead of snapping off. I do this with brake & clutch levers

I believe the dark glasses are worn and no autographs are given for legal reasons

Front Wheel bearings are 61905 2RS. Have not changed the bottom rose bearing so not got a reference for it yet.

Where is the rest of it? A 10 penny circlip could cost you a lot more!! I doubt anyone would have left that in after a rebuild. So a strip would advisable. A bug in one of my extreme sandwiches would be something to be concerned about!

Now you mention it when I see fotos taken of me I thought the same , I have a Shiro helmet.

Have you considered fitting a flywheel weight? I used one when I was learning and found it quite effective.

Those part numbers you mention are the same as what is called for my 2010 Pro. I can confirm that they are:- Rear C160001 is a 6004 2RS Front ME120136055 is a 61905 2RS

Pro mmodels are; Front SKF 61905 2RS 'H' size 25x42x9mm Rear SKF 6004 2RS 'H' size 20x42x12mm Pre Pro models were 6004 front and rear. If you can get the bearings with an 'H' suffix this is for a better high friction seal.

A few things; What trailer do have? Rubber suspension does bounce when trailer is unladen, What weight capacity are your units? for a single bike trailer you only need a 250kg pair (thats 125kg each side)so even by jumping on them they wont deflect much. You could use a suitable bar or tube to force them to see if they are free to move. They are supposed to be maintenance free but I have seen some badly rusted ones that have been seized up!

ACU call it 'Trials Registration'

Two wires, one Orange and one black. They can be joined together, If so separate them and connect the wires from the Map switch

I reckon the general rule is about 1/3 of the available suspension travel, This could vary between different bike manufactures. But personal preference is also a rule.

You need to wind the locknuts clockwise to show more thread and this will compress the spring, Sounds like you may have to do a couple of full turns, then see how much it has lifted the bike. Hope this helps.

I did this to my black Marzocchi's on my Gasser. Quote from 'Bodycote' to re Nitride one forkleg

The pipe should go straight up and then loop over, then zip-tie it to the frame near the upper shock mounting. It will vent but should'nt let water in.

Very common problem, Most likely you've banged it in a fall and it has bent inwards. They are quite soft around the middle section so just by kicking the end of the silencer away from the tyre it will reposition it to where it was when new.

A small amount of Mastic could be better as the plastic flywheel covers distort when tightened up. The gasket on mine is only sealing around the bolts.

Yes, On every motor I've worked on this has been the way forward

Should'nt be neccessary they only need to be 1/3 packed, Why? Too much grease can cause the balls to skid and not roll on the raceways and wear flats on them. If the extra grease is not the same, Mixing greases is bad practice as it can lose its properties like set like a wax or turn fluid. Before now for my Enduro bike I have tried removing the grease by soaking in a solvent and replaced it for a water proof grease but it is not worth messing.

Not so important. I would just make sure they are tight (Three white nuckles), I doubt you would get a torque wrench and socket on the bolts at the back of the frame.

Use 'ATF' like Castrol TQ-D from any car spares shop, There has recently been a few threads on here for this subject. Always check over for any required maintenance. Air Filter,Chain, brake n clutch fluid, water, check tyres for sharps and bolt tightness checks. remove Brake pads and clean mud from in calipers and wheel bearings. It all helps for a worry free day out!

Were they just a bad pair? Probably made in China! (or actually made out of china) I have researched some details, Raceline levers are made of 'Cast Ally' which is a crystaline structure and is why they break off like cheap door handles. Better material is 'Forged Alluminium' it is tougher and more ductile so it is more likey to bend not snap, After a fall if you heat treat (normalise) them then you should be able to straighten them back. I also put a couple of wraps of PTFE plumbing tape under the master cylinder clamps on the handle bars, this allows them to turn or slide up the bars to absorb an impact, it works very well

I had Brake n Clutch levers and they proved to cheap, nasty and a waste of money, I didnt get chance to ride with them! Just after fitting them I was loading the bike on the trailer and pulled the front brake. The lug where the adjuster screws in sheared clean off! So suprised I took both levers off and took the them back to the shop, where the owner managed to snap the clutch lever on the edge of the counter and he no longer sells them. Were they just a bad pair? I now use Apico levers and would recomend these!

Engine # is on the front of the engine!

Some tech info on the NGK website explains that a smaller electrode is less likely to suffer from 'Fuel Quenching', a small electrode reheats quicker and reduces the chance of fowling. Iridium is used because it is 6 times harder than the usual material and makes the plug last longer! Just technology, I just need to learn to ride!