richt

I used a piece of tube to fit over the stem to knock the lower bearing on. Be sure the tube only contacts the bearing race and not the roller cage.

11/39 is very high geared. Standard over here is 10/42T. which is what I currently use.

🤣 If it's any consolation I don't do it on purpose! The housings are not too hardy but reassuringly expensive, I hope you can figure out a good fix for it because last time I saw the price of one over here it were £70. about half that of a full unit .😮

Which O-Ring? the only one on mine is between the pump and the engine casing but that is to seal oil. There is a clear coloured flat gasket (not an O-ring) under the flange of the brass bush. I fitted this dry on mine and it doesn't leak but a friend did have one he couldn't stop leaking and it was because the body had an almost invisible tiny crack after being attacked by a rock.

Those kinks or dents are caused by the lower fork yoke hitting the frame in a crash.

"Renthal" make them in 9, 10 & 11 tooth, part number 429-520-11P 429 fits all Gasser trials models from 2002 onwards, 520 is the chain size and the last 2 figures are the No of teeth.

ACU Trials Standing Regulations TSR 40 TSR.40 POWER WASHERS It is prohibited to use power washers, unless the organisers offer suitable facilities which comply with the ACU Environmental Code.

I've had an Airoh for a few years and recently got another while it was on offer. There are a few more to choose from now more manufacturers are making similar designs like Mots and Hebo. The shape of the Airoh fits me a bit better.

I recommend getting a helmet with the most ventilation.

Did you get the Jitsie ones? When they warm and mould themselves to you they will soften up and you hardly know they're there. I have landed on rocks and they worked brilliantly.

I use the Jitsie Dynamic knee/shin guards and tested them for real. So good I invested in the elbow guards aswell. 👍

I think your best bet is to contact The Hell Team in Sydney, Have a look on their website "thehellteam.com" they list a lot of files for trialsbike owner and parts manuals. From what I looked at The oil is 5wt or 7.5wt, leaving an air gap of 130mm. (fully compressed and without the spring) Personally I use the heavier oil, but my forks are 40mm on a 2004 gasser. Hope this helps, Rick.

There has been an upgrade of of the water pump, The Shaft, the Impellor and the bronze bush are all made from better materials. Water Pump information, Pro 2002~07: Beginning in 2004, there are three changes to the waterpump. The centre shaft has a new heat treatment. The part number remains the same. The impeller is made of a new material. The part number remains the same. The outer bushing (drain cap) is made of a new alloy. It has a much longer life than the original model. The new cap uses a “Torx” bit for removal, and installation. The original one used an Allen wrench. (See photo) The part number remains the same. New Old

The fan on mine will turn on just as the top of the rad is too hot to touch, from a cold start its about 5-10 mins. You say Ran with cap off, can see coolant circulating, Were there any sign of bubbles? note the rad needs to be full to the brim, I've used a piece of clear hose that fits snug in the filer neck then positioned upright. Fill with coolant so you can see any bubbles rising just like when you bleed brakes.

36 is standard, I would wait an see if it still boils when you've fitted it. There shouldn't be any great pressure in the system unlees there's a problem like head O-rings or a crack somewhere in the castings. Carry out a check by filling the rad to the very top and running the engine with the rad cap off while looking for bubbles or even a fountain coming out of the filler neck. Its not easy to see if the head O-ring has dropped out while putting the head on but it is possible. Here are some engine specs: Engine size 250 280 300 CARBURADOR PHBL26BS VHST26BS VHST26BS Main jet 118 106 106 Jet needle position D36 - 3ª D48 - 4ª D48 - 4ª Throttle valve 60 55 55 Slow jet 35 S36 S36 Spraying jet 270K 272HH 272HH Passage jet 200 270 270 Level of the floats 12.3 mm 12,7 mm 12,7 mm Fuel screw 2.5 turns out 2.5 turns out 2.5 turns out Spark plug BPR5ES BPR5ES BPR5ES Gap of electrode 0.9 mm. 0.9 mm. 0.9 mm.

Yes you do have to remove the flywheel to fit a weight.

Yes that's correct. If you have the owners manual there are some mistakes in it! They quote figures from the pre-pro models like the petrol/oil ratio as 2% (50:1) Pro models run 1.5% (75:1) and Gear oil quantity as 550cc Pro models have a smaller gearbox and only need 350cc.

Check the mixture screw on the carb. Standard carb is a Delorto and the screw is actually a fuel screw not an air screw and should be 2.1/2 to 3.1/2 turns out. Sparkplug (NGK) BPR5ES There are casting or stamped numbers on the head and barrel. The different sizes must be paired as the bore diameter is the only difference between them and the cylinder head inner O-ring size are the only variation. In your frame number will give the original engine size example VTRGG 3002 F055 1234 30= Engine size 300cc. or 28= 280cc. & 25= 250cc F= model year 2005

I got mine from a local dealer in the UK. but they are not showing it anymore on their website. My 04 250 has a Sachs rear shocker fitted but from memory I think the 06 Gassers have Ohlins rear shocks fitted and I don't know if any of the parts are compatible between them. It may be worth contacting https://trialendurodirect.com/ formerly the UK GasGas importer.

Yep NGK BPR5ES is the correct plug Base gasket should be ok.

I remember when I bought mine I rang Dave Cooper to ask exactly the same question. Its a great bit of kit, If you have roof rails on your FL then attach a strap from it to the handlebars and it really steadies it up.

Cleaned up well, it should run like a new bike. 43 degrees that's too hot to ride, Its 18 degrees today in UK. I've never felt that type of heat except when I worked in a power station it still wasn't as hot as 43 though but at least you could go outside to cool down. How far away is the forest fire from you? On a lighter note, Your work bench gives the impression you've been busy (just like mine) but I hope you have used correct the tools and not the hammer and grips to fix your Gasser🤣 Enjoy Canada day and be careful.

The piston and bore look ok. The inner O-ring looks very poor and I reckon it has leaked hot gas into the coolant. Its not so clear on the photo but the top surface of the cylinder looks burnt/pitted, I hope it will clean up well. It may be worth turning it upside down onto an sheet of Wet & Dry sandpaper on a flat surface and polish it. at worst it may need skimming. What is the condition of the cylinder head looking like?

How many times have you changed the oil since the first contamination to flush the bad stuff out? I'm hoping you only had it happen once and it 's just some residual coolant still trapped in there. After a miss-hap my bike was fully submerged in a 3 foot deep stream everything was full of water (Tank, Carb, Exhaust and Engine) It took about 4 oil changes to to flush it out. It looked like somebody had dumped a shopping trolley.

Excellent, Hope you get it sorted soon.