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"Am I correct that the thermostat should read Open Line, no resistance at room temperature?" On my wiring diagram power from the generator to the fan is halted by the Thermostat which is open line or circuit not made. Open line is high resistance so no current can pass, When the thermostat gets to hot temp it should switch to closed line, circuit made and low resistance to allow current to the fan. Does this make sense?

Any excessive pressure in the coolant should blow out of the rad breather hose under the tank. Check that the hose is clear and not kinked. The only other place it can go is via the pump seal. Excess pressure in the coolant can be caused by a leaking cylinder head O-ring, can possibly be a result of overheated engine. Test! Fill the radiator to the brim, Run the engine without the rad cap and look for bubbles coming up. If there is then you know the higher pressure of the cylinder is getting into the coolant and need to replace the O-ring seals. The high pressure is more than the Rad cap or the Pump seal can hold. 40 degrees 🥵 in that heat I would expect the fan to be running most of the time. the fan on mine comes on just after when the radiator gets is hot to hold your thumb on the top.

If you don't have a spare wheel on the back then you need the "Van / Motor Home Rack" I have one one my Yeti. and plenty of clearance between handlebar and back window.👍

I've used evo-stick and it worked well. It is petrol based so is can be removed easily with petrol. Also I've used double sided tape its easier to feed under the edge of a sticker and press down firmly, then trim off the excess with a knife.

The bike was about two months old. They replaced the generator, pickup, wiring loom and CDI for free.

I had a CDI issue with an Enduro bike I was told there was no warranty for competition bikes, but if it was road registered which it was then there is 12 months warranty.

Quite certain there are only 2 available; genuine GasGas and RQF. Both are made from Aluminium. Re-assuringly expensive.

When you say a spanner has no room to turn are you using open jaw spanners? If so then I think you need to use ring spanners. or Combination spanners which are ring at one end and open jaw at the other.

Confirmed the seal is correct. Some checks you can do; Run the engine without the rad cap on and see if any bubbles appear, if they do then you will be getting extra pressure in the cooling system and the water gets forced passed the pump seal. The Cyl-Head O-rings will need replacing. Make sure the rad cap breather is clear and the pipe is not kinked, when the water heats up the extra pressure can't vent out so again the water gets forced passed the pump seal.

The bolts are just normal cap screws but if you have the spacer fitted they are slightly longer (5mm) than the standard ones for just the cover without the spacer. My bike use to have flywheel weight and because the spacer makes the cover overhang the sump guard, it had been hit on rocks which bent one of the screws and distorted the crank case. So I had to gently reshape the crank casing it to stop it rubbing on the flywheel. I don't use the weight anymore.

The covers are all the same on all Pro models and there is next no clearance. so I'm not sure why you're hang trouble unless its distorted or something has been changed by a previous owner. I recommend you remove the threaded inserts. If they were to drop out they will destroy your electrics.

That's exactly how I do it. Recently modified it and extended the carb inlet with an inch long piece of hose that is a good fit on the carb and snug fit in the air filter duct. So now there is a extra Jubilee clip.

On the lanyard type magnet kill switch. Magnet on; the switch is open. (No circuit) Magnet off; the switch is closed. (connected circuit)

I think that was on Jim Snell's website but he's no longer a Gasgas dealer anymore so alot of the info has disappeared.

Answers to Questions 1 & 3 I use Putoline Trials pro 70ml in 5litres petrol, that's 70:1. Standard sparkplug BPR5ES I doubt you'll notice any difference except for the prices.

Yes I have, we were in the same class at school ??

I'm in Hazel-Grove, Man17 organise the "Dead Easy Trials" which are especially to introduce Newcomers, Kids and New & Vintage machines and get everybody out on their bikes.

I'm probably not far from you, in which case I recommend you join a club like Man17 or MaccTrials.?

Does the weld all the way round like they have put a full disc on? If so I would tidy it up and paint it. It looks a good repair and more substantial than standard. ?

I wouldn't do that, You need a 2 bike trailer.

This is a cut & paste from this link; https://en.vindecoder.pl/VTRGG280210022861 Entered VIN VTRGG280210022861 Corrected VIN VTRGG280210022861 Squish VIN VTRGG28010 WMI VTR VIS identifier N/A VDS GG280210 Year identifier 1 Serial number 022861 Make Gas Gas Model year 2001 Manufactured in Spain

You don't need to do anything with the rebound screw until after you get the bottom mount off. The screw can only be removed afterwards. I didn't need to get it very hot it's more a case heating it quickly to expand the aluminium before the steel rod and it breaks the "loctite" on the threads. The o-ring on mine was okay but I changed it anyway.

No gas or oil came out ?

If it still uses gear oil then keep a check on the breather near the front sprocket. it can only blow it out, leak it or burn it.

The pre-Pro models ran 50:1 as the fuel mix lubed the main bearings. The GG has a few mistakes in it. Pro models use the gearbox oil to lubricate the main bearings so less is required in the fuel mix. I run mine at 70:1 with a good synthetic 2T oil and its never fouled a plug.