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I remove the liner and wash it with hair shampoo, If you intend to machine wash it then you should put it in a pillow case and tie it up, still gets washed but helps protect from getting damaged.

The damper screw on mine has always been wound fully out as well. I couldn't tell if my old rubber had ever been cut down but its compressed and gone rock hard. Exactly like you said "IS knackered" While the spring and the rubber were removed, I checked the damping was consistent through the total length off the stroke which was spot on.

I made a clamp to grip the shaft in the vice. I ended up using a bit heat on the aluminium because they have put loc-tite on the thread. Use a good spanner on the square section of the Ally mount and shock it loose then it unscrewed easily. (normal right hand thread) Also when the mount is off the damping adjuster screw can be removed to clean and lube it.

I thought the Bump stop was looking a bit tatty but until I compared to a new one I realize it was long overdue! this was on a 2004 Sachs shock and probably the original rubber. Note! The picture is only a comparison not how the shock is reassembled the rubber is fitted the other way up.

I have also done the same with my gear pedal. Give it a try, you might never fall off again to find out if it works? Strange though It hasn't stopped me falling off enough times to believe it works.

If you have a Delorto carb (PHBL26), first try setting the fuel screw 3 to 3.1/2 turns out. Sounds like it could running weak or there's an air leak. Petroil mix ratio 60:1 ish. The crank bearings are lubed by the gearbox oil so you don't need much oil in the fuel. Does it smoke excessively? or consume gearbox oil? this could point to crank seals. lets hope not.

I've done this for about 15 years and I also heat treat the levers to normalize them so they bend instead of breaking. I can't remember when I last broke one.

They are to protect your hands when you catch trees doing Enduro, not to protect the levers.

I had this issue on my Gasser, I cut a piece of old oil bottle and fixed it to extend the existing chain guard. Only tried it as an experiment but has worked so well it's now a permanent fixture.?

The first go I had on a trials bike was with my enduro gear, MX pants with Knee guards and Alpine stars T8 boots. The Tech8 boots were far too restrictive, I still use MX pants, knee guards, Trials boots and an Airoh helmet.

Yes those are the wires on your photo so you are already on the rainy setting. There is only a very subtle difference between the 2 ignition settings, One is intended for slippy conditions with a very slightly softer power band with slightly restricted top revs. The second one is just normal. The switch if fitted is only an open/closed switch, the 2 wires I mentioned are connected together for the softer one and just disconnected from each other for normal one. ?

I started out on an 06 pro and found it a bit like how you described above. To calm it down I was advised to try these points. You can fit a slow throttle, to check which type you have just roll the grip back slightly to see what colour the tube is (White is quick.Black is slow) The 2006 has two ignition settings, If you do not have a switch fitted showing "Sun or Rain" then check under the tank for 2 wires Orange and Black are connected together (this would be the rain setting). You can fit a Flywheel weight. Change the sprockets gearing. I use 10t front 42t rear. If the rear shock is too firm try softening it. Practice clutch/throttle & brake control ?

You may be getting high pressures in the water system. Can be caused by the Cylinder head o-ring and or radiator vent pipe kinked,

Have you replaced the pipe that links the two overflow /breathers on the sides of the carb?

I can't see in the previous posts. Have you changed the HT lead, plug cap and spark plug?

The only bike I've run at 20:1 was my FS1E ? wish I still had it.

My first trials bike was a GasGas 06 and I first ran it at 50:1. it was orrid to ride smoked badly and fouled plugs, importer told me the manual was written for the pre pro model and I should use 70:1. It ran so much better I've run this for 10 years using Putolene or Castrol fully synthetic oil. ?

The lining in my Airoh is still looking as good as ever so you may never need to replace it, more likely you will replace the helmet before then if you bash it as many times as I have. I'm that impressed with the comfort and cooling I've bought another in the sales.

I have the Jitsie knee/shin pads and they are brilliant. So if that's anything to go by and I was looking for back armour I think would go for Jitsie.

When you get your new seal apply some engine oil to the shaft and the hole in the seal. This will prevent the seal getting sliced when putting the shaft through it! No other paths for Oil and Coolant to mix, just the water pump. You can get coolant in the oil if the cylinder head seal leaks then the higher pressure builds up in the coolant system and will breach the waterpump seal. Always make sure the radiator breather hose is clear and not kinked so that the pressure can blow out into the open and hopefully not into the oil.

I thought I was just unlucky as I've not heard of any more 06's with this problem. Got an 04 model now and after a close inspection there's no sign of any cracks.

I had an 2006 model that both sides broke off. Had them welded back on and no troubles. They were actually already cracked from manufacture because parts of the cracked surfaces were chromed when the frame was done.

Try Venhill, Goodridge or Hel for after market parts. GG UK sell Venhill kits Inc' clutch and brake hose with a throttle cable for £70. So £69 for just one hose is a ripoff.

I reckon GasGas UK is your best place. Only in Buxton. 01298 766813

I have an 04 and it has one fitted its the same part for models 02 - 08. just order one of these BT280212026 from Gasgas. I got this info from the parts manual.