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I damaged one by grazing it on rocks and made it good using black nail varnish, It did surprisingly well and cheaper than a new tube at £240. I got a quote from 'Bodycote' to re-coat the black surface £400 +VAT each. A possibility to temporary repair the one pictured could be to use a a double bubble epoxy to cover the hole and then smooth it down to blend it in. Secondhand is the way to go!

Welcome, What era of bike are you looking for? The later ones don't have a saddle to get into

Hi 2sticks, Ask your questions! Where about's are you based?

If you use a single pipe to join both sides it must have hole at the bottom.

I've done exactly the same with the corner of an oil bottle. It was just an experiment and then become a permanent fixture. I do still have a trailscast one on the shelf and never used it.

I'm using Apico 3 finger levers and move the lever clamps along the bars inwards so I can use a single finger. I think this helps them from braking off in a crash because I've had my current levers on for a couple of seasons.

Gas Gas introduced a new shaft which is a better steel and improved Heat Treatment during manufacture. Since about 2004. Detail were on Jim Snell's web site . It seems as now they no longer import GasGas and all the 'How to fix it' videos are only available as cached copies. Water Pump information, Pro 2002~13: Beginning in 2004, there are three changes to the waterpump. 1 The center shaft has a new heat treatment. The part number remains the same. 2 The impeller is made of a new material. The part number remains the same. 3 The outer bushing (drain cap) is made of a new alloy. It has a much longer life than the original model. The new cap uses a “Torx” bit for removal, and installation. The original one used an Allen wrench. (See photo) The part number remains the same.

Sounds like over tightening and the new bearings have become indented ('Brinnelling') and need replacing. Never set the free play then tighten the locknut down. Always set the free play then run the locknut down only finger tight, then turn the bearing nut backwards (undoing) against the locknut with a firm nip. After this you may only need to carry out a very fine adjustment. by turning both nuts together 1/8th turn until they feel right. When right the bearings should be just tight enough to have minimal to no detectable play. Hope this helps.

TRIAL MODEL CHASSIS NUMBERS 1993~2003 Example: VTRGG 2800 0200 9955 VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 2800 = 280 model, year 2000 0200: 02 = Manufacture month. (2ND month) February. 00 = Year of manufacture 2000. 9955 = sequential chassis number (9,955th built in this year.)

I bought my Airoh TRR because it was the best fit, I thought it was overpriced but a Helmet is something you have to wear so the most comfy and most vented, this is the one to have. I wont think twice on price when I need to replace it with another.

I've had the same problem; The bolt should be tightened up so the shoulder of the bolt is up against the frame and Loctite is recommended. The shoulder of the bolt can be worn, or the edge of the hole in the frame can get a bit recessed as the bolt is tightened up against it and screwing in further so taking up the clearance of your brake pedal. Some choices; Try a new bolt, Fit a suitable spacer that has the effect of extending the bolt shoulder. (I've done this) On a Lathe remove some material from the underside of the bolt head. File the width of the pedal and bearing bush to make it narrower (you would have to do this to your spare pedals also) Hope this helps.

I use the firm (hardest) Renthal the diamond pattern seems to feel sharper and grip more because you they don't flatten out when you squeeze them. When I did Enduro I always got blisters from soft grips so changed to Hard, because they stay in shape you don't need to grip as tightly and the sharp edges of the waffle part of the grip cuts through the mud after a fall. I never got blisters again yet you would think it works the opposite way about. Your grips are worn if the very tops of the diamonds have started to lose their sharp points.

I've sealed the rim band with 'Plumbers Mait' It's a tacky none hardening putty and can be removed easily if needed. My tyre will keep 2 to 3 psi for ever (its been 14 months now) It's a 2004 rim and it's not in the best condition. It was fixed at first attempt. Soap and Detergent are caustic and that is what eats Aluminium, cheaper ones can be worse as they have a greater salt content. I used the more expensive one that keeps your hands soft for 8years to lubricate my Enduro bike Moosses and that did not corrode the rims.

If you have 1 pre 2001reg or you can buy a personal plate with a prefix letter, single or 2 digits and 3 letters the smallest legal size is; 174mm wide x 163mm height. Plate must be fitted to the most rear point of the vehicle. Details for displaying plates are here; https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/359317/INF104_160914.pdf

Andy, Its not far from me and I've seen their warehouse, Its got to be true they really do have just about everything, it would be quite a task to list it all online

Have you tried GGUK ? Their web site is http://www.trialendurodirect.com/ give em a call. 01298 766 813

Your bike is a 2005 TXT-Pro 250 (made in Feb 05) The changeover year was 2002 when the TXT-Pro was introduced and the plain TXT finished. Have a look ay my earlier post above, it explains what the full number means.

I got some from GGUK about a year ago and seem to remember they were about a quid each.

I pressed the spindle through the bottom yoke. Yes they can make a worrying bang when they start moving.

On mine, the hexagon sleeve/nut between the tank and the tap is threaded left handed on the tap and right handed on the tank so you can position the tap to face the right way and there is a ptfe sealing washer in side it, You may be able to get one more turn of the sleeve onto the tank and then screw the tap on. One proper fix would be to remove the tank outlet (cut off & drill out) and install a fitting called a tank connection. (a single ended bulkhead connector with a locking nut)

I used to have a Shiro Matrix Commander before getting my Airoh TRR, Not as cool as the Airoh and I had cut bigger holes in the polystyrene 1" dia but it made little or no difference, It didn't fit as well either (too round) and the lining just got dripping wet. A cool helmet needs air channels as well as holes so it can circulate.

One side (all Silver) should be just as normal but the other side (Red & Silver) just the centre nut will turn, this bit adjusts the preload on the fork spring and turns just a couple of turns then goes tight at the end of its adjustment. Depending how tight the cap is it will come undone if you kept going if it won't then you need a tool that locates in the holes.

For me knee guards are a must. I recently got some Jitsie Dynamic knee protectors and find very light, flexible and comfy. apparently they're suppose to stiffen when impacted. The ones I've used for Enduro are too bulky for trials.

I use 70:1 for my 250pro 2004

A flywheel weight is most effective at low revs, it will slow the rate of acceleration especially at low revs and the engine braking will be less severe because the revs will drop off slower. It helps to stop the engine stalling, more traction on greasy off cambers. If you are new to trials they are very good. Then as you improve you may find you don't need it anymore. I had used one for 12months before taking it off and trying without it, then decided to leave it off. Still got it on the bench though.