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Big gap seems to be better! mine is 0.7 and runs great These questions are not stupid if you don't know then ask, The details in different manuals all vary. e.g. Electrode gap GasGas say 0.6 to 0.7mm GasGas USA say 0.9mm Fuel mix says 2% (50:1) when 1.33% (75:1) is preferred. Gear oil quantity says 550ml this was right for 'pre Pro' models but this was cut + pasted into the Pro manual and should more like 350ml.

The manual says 0.6mm to 0.7mm.

Definitely not washing up liquid! (contains salt and caustic) Use something like Muck-Off, If the radiator is clean your bike should run ok all the time, the thermostat and fan should control the engine temp.. Jetwashiing is more likely to get into wheel bearings so don't get too close, but they are easily changed anyway.

Well it seems the hardest part of fault finding is fighting the embarrassment of being wrong and being the first to confess Then a chain reaction begins and we all try to outdo each others misfortune. You learn by making mistakes and more fun to learn from others. I fitted an immobiliser to my Gasser and it works faultlessly, it's just me that forgets about it

The only adjustment you can do is with the lever/master cylinder The size of your hand and the biting point where the clutch starts to engage. It is possible that if the lever is badly adjusted when it is fully let out the master cylinder can hold a bit of pressure in the system and the clutch appears to be slipping. The pull weight can only be altered by changing the clutch spring! Try setting the lever so it has plenty of play in it when fully out and ride the bike, if it still slips then I would look towards replacing the clutch plates.

Ace ! It's a Gold framed Raga Rep

Update! Just after first doing this I fitted a new tyre inflated it to 3psi and now it's been on for more than 3 months, Just checked the pressure today and it is still 3psi

The pro models have different bearings front and rear. The rear are as you say 6004 2RS. and the front are 6905 2RS. also known as 61905 2RS. depending on which manufacturer has made it.

As long as the Letters/No's are the full size and spaced correctly and the minimum edge distance the plate doesn't need to be 9x7.

I read the book and learnt the hard way as there are many mistakes in them, 50:1 not a hope in hell 70:1 works for mine. Also the book states 550ml of oil in the gearbox, Has anybody managed to get that much in?? GasGas technical bulletin. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Pro_Technical_Bulletin_USA_July_22_2013.doc

75w90 seems too viscous. Most people are using Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF Dexron III) and it's also recommended by GasGas.

I got mine from here; http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=433

Don't say that I just fitted a new tyre Sounds a good idea though, Have you tried this?

I only took the raised edges off with a piece of canvas or the back of some emery cloth. The varnish works best if you use it to fill the scratches using a cocktail stick not the brush. A bit of practice to fill the grooves very slightly proud because the varnish shrinks a bit when it dries. It may sound daft but don't take too long because it dries quick and messes up if you keep going over it.

Hi Asimo, I posted this a few weeks back and my tyre has stayed up ever since; My rim was leaking so I removed the rim band that the previous owner had unsuccessfully used Evo-Stick and so cleaned it all off with petrol. Bought some 'Plumbers Mait' this none setting, water / chemical proof and very very sticky sealing putty, Spread an ample layer 2 to 3mm thick covering all round the centre of the rim and then refit the rim band. Pressing the band down into the rim and removing the excess as its squeezed out, this takes a while. This could seal rims that may in very poor condition. Worth a try. Result is totally air tight. The nature of this product could be a long lasting cure and because it doesn't set you can still tighten spokes or if you ever need to replace any spokes it can be taken apart and resealed easily. Cost £3.60 for 750g, got loads left I estimate this size of tub would easily fix 5 wheels. I guess I just need some friends to use it up.

I bet there is air in the banjo bolt at the top of the MC. I take the MC off the frame and invert it then operate it with a piece of rod the full travel and use a syringe at the same time connected to the reservoir hose. It's an orrid job, usually for me it will suddenly start to work followed with a sigh of joy

Hmmm, That's a new one on me as I've only known this the other way round. It seems what you did to the master cylinder is working okay, It must be just an issue with just the pads & or disc. Are they new or old pads? Old pads are they Glazed? Are the pads or disc contaminated with brake fluid or anything else like 'after wash spray'?

You need to give a bit more detail because I'm not sure what you mean about it not working, if you can lock the wheel up its working and it should do this if wet or dry. The grease is only to stop it squealing and it works on all brakes.

Try removing the pads and put a thin smear of copperslip grease on the back of each brake pad. This helps dampen the vibration that causes the high pitch squeal.

Yes I agree, I Would use the 3 white knuckles technique because it feels more accurate than a torque wrench.

If the hose from the fluid pot enters the master cylinder at the bottom, I remove master cylinder from the frame and invert it, then bleed it both ways with a syringe. You can pull out the fluid pot and connect your syringe to the rubber hose. be care full not to let air back in when refitting the fluid pot. It's a ***** job. Method and patience is the best tool. Good luck

Stanley, Bankhol Monday 25th Aug, Man17 club and in conjunction with other local clubs run a Dead Easy Charity trial at Heaton House farm, Rushden Spencer, which is about 20miles from Stanthorne. Its open to all classes, Quite a few classic bikes regularly turn out for this event because the event is more focused on get your bike out and ride it. details http://www.manchester17.org.uk/Trials_Pages/Trials_Home_Page.htm There is also a country fayre for any of your family if they don't like trials. http://www.heatonhousefarm.co.uk/

Result A week later and the tyre pressure has not budged a single micro of a psi.

'PSI' is the Proof Strength index of the bolt material, bolts should be tightened to 75% of their point of yield. Diameter, pitch and length all in the calculation for the torque. Also PSI is referred to as the clamping force on the joint/gasket material and does not convert to a torque setting.

Edited, Apology retracted.