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I know this topic comes up regular so I would like to share my idea. My rim was leaking so I removed the rim band that the previous owner had unsuccessfully used Evo-Stick and so cleaned it all off with petrol. Bought some 'Plumbers Mait' this none setting, water / chemical proof and very very sticky sealing putty, Spread an ample layer 2 to 3mm thick covering all round the centre of the rim and then refit the rim band. Pressing the band down into the rim and removing the excess as its squeezed out, this takes a while. This could seal rims that may in very poor condition. Worth a try. Result is totally air tight. The nature of this product could be a long lasting cure and because it doesn't set you can still tighten spokes or if you ever need to replace any spokes it can be taken apart and resealed easily. Cost £3.60 for 750g, got loads left I estimate this size of tub would easily fix 5 wheels. I guess I just need some friends to use it up.

I'm pretty sure it does both combined so turn that fully out.

I have usually found the right hand crank seal pressurises the clutch chamber and forcing the oil into the gear chamber, then the Oil level gear side rises and out through the breather pipe.

For bouncy, Both rebound and compression fully out. (No Damping)

The C & R are just for damping. To increase the pre load you would have to make some spacers to fit between the spring and the fork cap. I used the plastic centre from a roll of insulation tape was the perfect size, then cut it round the middle to make two x 10mm spacers. It might not sound much but it made quite a difference.

You may need to turn the gears to fully mesh them, a bit like when you would rock the bike back and to when it is stuck in 6th.

Bilks, you were too quick for me

Use the window, run the motor for a couple of mins then sop it and allow the oil to settle about a minute. with the bike vertical and on level ground the oil level should be halfway up the sight glass +/- a couple of mm. Quantity will be about 380 ml, depends how much you manage to drain out, Regards the year of your bike you say 08 or 09 the motors have the same oil levels How to check the age of your bike by the frame number; 2004 and newer (after July 2003) Example: VTRGG 3002 D093 9955VTR = International manufacturers code. VTR = GasGas GG = Trial model (Company code to identify model EC = Enduro & MX, FS = Four Stroke, WD = Quads) 3002: 30 = 300 model. 02 = (02 = year of Europe homogulation N/A USA) D093: D = 2003 ALPHA CODE FOR MODEL YEAR. 09 = Manufacture month (9TH month) September. 3 = Year of manufacture 2003. 9955 = sequential chassis number. (9,955th built in this year.) “Alpha” model year codes Model engine size codesD = 2003 J = 2008 12 = 125cc E = 2004 K = 2009 20 = 200 model (175cc) F = 2005 L = 2010 25 = 250cc G = 2006 M = 2011 28 = 280 model (272cc) H = 2007 N = 2012 30 = 300cc

GGuk do sell individual spokes I bought some a while back and think they were about £1.50 each. There are 2 different lengths depending which position inboard/outboard of the hub. Part no's for rear (Taken from 2006 manual) 3.4X220 REAR SPOKE BRT500118014 3.4X215 REAR SPOKE BRT500118015 3.5MM. REAR SPOKE NUT BT27718016

I used black nail varnish straight onto the aluminium and you couldn't see where it was scratched, it stayed on for 2 years and no leaks. then the bike got nicked but its probably still okay now but I hope the scum have killed em selves on it

This is cut & pasted from Trialspartsusa.com website CYLINDER SIZE 250 CARBURETOR PHBL26BS Main jet 118 Jet needle position D36-3ª Throttle valve 60 Slow jet 35 Spraying jet 270K Passage jet 200 Level of the floats 12.3 mm Fuel screw 2.5 turns out

I was told the same thing, 250 Gasser is plenty and sometimes still too much

Welcome Jay, I've answered your email. I'm sure you will picking it up (the bike) like the rest of us who are short of skill.

I know the feeling ! My 2 bikes never showed up, They were taken during a Tuesday night Wednesday morning. There could be a trend here because this day seems to be the worst or most likely the "feral scum bags" strike. Just a quick question more for curiosity, Did they close your garage up and take the padlock, Do any cut chain links fit back together? (frozen & shattered)

Where are you referring to that needs a breather, the flywheel cover or the gearbox? The pro has a gearbox breather just in front of the drive sprocket, but the f/w cover should just have a 3mm hole in the bottom of it.

Both the crank main bearings on a pro are lubed by the trans oil the water or damp in the flywheel cover should just be from outside.

Good fix. What have you used to seal the joint?

if you can ride with it carry on and get some wear out of it. even a new tyre can go flat in a week if the rim tape is leaking.

I have a Witter towbar fitted to mine, they have one main beam that fits the car (check their website) and with choices of; 1) fixed swan neck, 2) fixed flanged type. 3) detachable swan neck, 4) detachable flanged type. They can be swapped to suit your needs.

20 replies and not a single one says no!!! So now you should put your feet up onto some pegs and go Trialling

A quick conversion 11 Stone = 154Lbs = 69.85Kg 16 Stone = 225Llbs = 102.1Kg

Do it now!

I don't know what bike you have but a pic would help, if it where the silencer fastens to the middle exhaust section then it maybe a bolt has dropped out. Mine GG250 04 has a nut & bolt through the top and 2 Allen screws underneath.

Crystals is the caustic freezing. Depending how strong the mixture (% by weight to water mixture) if above 30% It freezes at @ 8degC.

I had a Shiro £50 used it for 3yrs. very popular. What was your last one? I would recommend you try em all on for the best fit. The Hebo and MOTS are good quality hats but none fitted me.