eddie1

If you don't feel confident with a disc grinder then it might be better if you don't. I'm just sharing how I do it without damaging anything other than the scrap bearing inner race.

The way I have always removed the lower bearing is to angle/disc grind a flat on the bearing. Obviously being careful not to damage the shaft or the clamps. As the bearing becomes thin a colour line starts to show so start being extra careful. When you have it thin enough tap it with a hammer and the bearing will usually come off. Very quick and easy.

It's in here somewhere.

Something else to try is to pull it back in gear, as already mentioned, and give it a bit of throttle 1/8 or 1/4 turn. This seems to be necessary on the bikes with Keihn carbs. I even use a touch of throttle with the choke when its cold and that was always a no no with delorto.

If you can't get the fluid to come out in the reservoir my guess is that you need to fully screw out the adjuster screw that goes against the piston as this may be holding the piston in slightly. You should then be able to push fluid up from the bleed nipple up to the reservoir with a syringe. Obviously the reservoir cap needs to be off. Watch the fluid coming up, initially there will be some air bubbles but it should then go clear. Lock the nipple up, screw the adjuster back in until it just touches the piston. Then slowly operate the lever alternating between short and full strokes. Hold the lever in and tap the hose. Keep looking at the fluid in the reservoir as you may see small air bubbles come up. Once you are sure they have stopped. Refit cap and try it out. It should be OK.

It seems the way to go is to pick and buy the type of engine you want, bantam, villers, triumph single or twin etc. Then get a Drayton frame kit, REH forks and Alan Whitton wheel hubs (he also makes a very nice frame kit slightly pricier than the drayton.) This is what most are riding so conforms to the rules.

It's worth taking the flywheel off and carefully inspecting the wires from the pick up for breaks or shorts. A couple of times I've had problems and found this to be the fault. They are not always obvious as it is all pushed in and behind the flywheel as well. I only found it when I took the pick up off to replace it.

I'm no expert but have a look at this film it may help you. If your hand is blipping the throttle as you land it will cause the bike to jerk and as it pulls away you will be gripping the throttle tighter and twisting it by accident. Try adjusting more slack in the throttle cable until you feel comfortable. That way nothing happens from a small blip. Once you are confident adjust the slack back out as it will be a hinderance for other obstacles. MotoTrials How To: Basic Drop Offs with Pat Smage - YouTube

If you have a good search of the net, Jim Snells films of stripping and rebuilding the engine are still around. well worth looking at as they are a bit different to most engines.

I would lever the clutch basket against the screw whilst undoing it.. It is only the screw that is keeping the basket in so if the thread is stripped the clutch will come out. Have a look at Jim Snell's vids channel. Some have gone but lots of good info there. TRIALS PARTS USA - YouTube

Thanks

I've fitted the new, inbuilt seal, main bearings into the crank cases and they fitted in no problem by freezing the bearings and heating the cases. My question is how do I fit the crank in the rh case without damaging the o ring type seal inbuilt to the inner race? I can't help thinking that the splines will rip or cut these as I push the crank through. Wrapping the spines with tape did not work as there does not seem to be enough clearance. Perhaps this seal does not matter on the RH side because the main seal will do a good enough job? It's a real shame that Jim's videos covering the pro have all disappeared. I know he did one specially covering these bearings. Any pointers?

These 2 videos should help you the clutch can be very light if the plates measurementment is correct.

Thanks for the replies, Think I've got there. There was a tech sheet somewhere that listed a part no for the upgrade. It was the later casing, slave seals, piston and spring and mentions the master cylinder seal kit. I now realize that there is different seal material for mineral and Dot 4. I note that the o rings on the slave cylinder are the same for both mineral and Dot4. I've had an 03 pro that uses Dot4 and that has never been a problem. The 02, even with new o rings has always needed bleeding if left more than a week due to fluid leaking past the slave seals.

I'm going to fit a 2005 case to my 2002 Pro. Do I need to change the seal in the master cylinder or just clean the brake fluid out and flush the hose out before filling with mineral oil? The case comes complete with slave piston, seals etc.so that will be OK. Thanks