eddie1

Take some time before getting too rough with it. Plenty of heat and penetrating fluid I cant see it being stuck in the actual swinging arm itself. There are two nylon bushes one at each end and clearance in the middle. It is possible that if the spindle has rusted in this centre bit making it too big to knock through. However even if this was the case the shaft should turn. It is most likely fast in the frame at one or both of the ends. I would definitly try to get the spindle to turn before hammering incase it is threaded in the frame. Drill a hole in the LH size approx 10'2mm and hammer a 10mm allen or torx key in. If it still wont turn use a bigger drill and drill the spindle end out. It should knock out then when you have drilled the thread out. Good Luck When I bought my bike the thread on the end of the shaft was bent. It must have been used for a jump and had a very hard landing. It did come out once it started to move but needed a lot of leverage

The swinging atm spindle has a slot for an allen key on the rh side. Turn it anticlockwise.

I moved mine back and slightly down but I did it with the bare frame no wheels engine etc.The plan was 1" down and back but I think the angle I had the frame at meant I did not drop them down quite as much but still lower than standard, appox 3/4" Jumping from the Gas Gas to the Fantic and just looking at the footrest shows that they are still much higher on the Fantic but for some reason this position seems to suit me. The only awkward bit is actually starting on a steep uphill section as it is a bigger step up than the Gas Gas if that makes sense. I was planning to have another go at lowering them but the bike feels so right to ride that I am going to leave them where they are. Wider footrest kits http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIALS-BIKE-FOOT-RESTS-FIT-GAS-GAS-BETA-SCORPA-SHERCO-MONTESA-TWINSHOCK-PRE-65-/181230717384?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2a323149c8 Just the brackets http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIALS-WELD-ON-FOOT-REST-BRACKETS-TWINSHOCK-PRE-65-FANTIC-BULTACO-MONTESA-OSSA-/350890181599?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item51b2af43df The clutch on my bike is extremely light as standard. When I was rebuilding it I read about clutch lightening so left the standard 30 year old springs in. No clutch slip and a lever action that is easy enough with one finger with a short lever. If I was looking for a lighter clutch action I would look at fitting 6 lighter springs than leaving a couple of stronger springs out. Being riding mine a couple of months and absolutely loving it. What a great bike.

Cut open the silencer on my 200 and found why it would die when I cracked the throttle in second. This only happened after I had sealed the join between the front pipe and the rear silencer. Despite buring with petrol in a fire during the recent rebuild the box it was almost completedly blocked with 30 years of soot. It should run even better now. Anyone used caustic soda to decoke exhausts?

Rode it for the first time after getting it back together after rebuild. Before Now. Still some bits to do but running

Great Info thanks for that. Makes sense to get a new plunger if I can. Wont even start to try and figure out why on a 30 year old none runner Just had frame.hubsand forks back from powder coating so plenty to go at for a while.

Short plunger measured 7mm Rod measured 101mm Rod with the hat on 51.5mm Bearing 5mm. I'll make up a rod that puts the plunger level with the casing. Thanks Once the arm is extended does the cable holder screwed into the top of the engine need to be raised to suit.

Thanks for replying. I have all the bits then. The plunger that I have is a bit shorter than 12mm so that might be the problem. Does the plunger stick out of the casing. That is does the adjuster screw on the actuating arm have to enter the casing to push against the plunger or is the plunger slightly proud of the casing. Also have you extended the actuating arm on yours to make the clutch lighter?

I am rebuilding a 200 that I bought as a none runner. All is going well apart from the clutch pushrods and bearing do not seem long enough for the clutch to operate. Now I could make a new push rod that is slightly longer but first off I would like to check that the bits I have are the correct ones. Adding 2 additional bearings nearly makes it right but 3 is too much. Possible suspect is the very short rod that fits in the casing near the chain sprocket that the actuating arm pushes against Has any one a good drawing of the parts. I have the Bill pye exploded view of the engine but that is not really clear enough to establish that the parts I have are the correct length. Any help appreciated. thanks

Thanks for the link to the hezketh site. The forks manual were the missing piece for me on rebuilding and repairing my fantic 200

Remove the water pump from the clutch casing without taking the hoses off and without draining the system. If it is still leaking you will see coolant on the inside of the water pump seal. Tap it lightly against your hand. If there is no coolant there it is not coming from the pump. If you can see coolant then either the seal has been caught during assembly or the shaft is well worn.

Interesting. Good Video. I have been using a Gopro mounted on top of my helmet for trail riding and have been happy with the results other than it does not always show exactly how rough the terrain is. This is so much of an issue for trail riding as it is still interesting to see the scenery go by. It looks as if the chest mount is a better option for trials showing giving a better perspective of the severity of the obstacles. Wish I had bought the outdoor kit rather than the motorsport one as it is far more useful of offroad riding.

This was him riding out of the last section.

Thanks for this post. The link has been a big help to me understanding the very different Gas Gas clutch.

It may be worth giving this man a ring. He has been doing Motox and enduro kit for years and is just starting to stock trials kit. http://offroad.feridax.com/dealer_locator/...amp;AddressID=0