carni026

hellow everyone, i simply wanted to know if anyone knows if there are any comoon problems to these bikes? is there anything i should look for on these bikes? i ve seen GG from 2007 and newer with broken swing arms,

ahhh, well both the plated leg and the bottom tube were crushed, the dust seal poped out but the lock that keeps the plated leg and oil in the leg broke, I'm not sure I can fit another lock or any new parts in there. However I just took a look at it a while ago, and a will try it, might be worth, cause the new leg should be arround 600$ : s thank you once again eiaprilia

mmmm what a shame, it took me a lot of time to get this bike, then a whole lot to tune it up!!! i used for 2 months on sundays only and lend it and get it back wrecked.... -.- now im looking for a new, or used LEFT SHOWA LEG, from the front suspension. for a 2001 COTA 315R. Anyone has any ideas?, i know sandifords should sale those, but i just havent hav the time to find it... such a long catalog, and i dont know how to look for the entire part. :/ appreciate any coments, and/or help by the way, will it be worth to fix it,, or should i move on to another bike. a newer one, i love the looking of the 2004 gasgas 300txt pro, but i ve heard bad things about em. plus i was thinking that if i ever get another bike it must be a four stroke, any suggestions?

GOOD JOB!!! great place to refer in case we need anything bro, the 3 sites are great THANKS ALOT!!!

.... i've been trying several deferent oils, with the same gas, V-power from shell, 93 octane, and i believe i was using VP before, but it was 3-4 months old. anyways even with this different gas, i still feel the push, push, push on low revs, although i have to say it has decreased. i will give a try to some new VP, then a 50:50 VP and shell gas mix, if still no results, then i will take the silencer, or midbox? to someone who can do the job. thanks for the advice !!!

ohhh, i see, i will try getting some of that race fuel then, mix it with the best pump gas i can get, and see the results, Thanks man, ill check back soon, and see if anyone has any other opinios

ok, ok, that's why i typed the question marks (???), cause i was not sure if it was the super unleaded, i believe thats about the highest u can get here in south texas, or north of mexico, i will look for a shell gas station, they should have a better gas there. and my next gas option would be VP...but.. if i try the VP red, will my pilot get clogged???, in that case i might just go for the highest octane gas i can get at a pump or a shell gas station. before getting my gas, let me refresh your minds, WHAT IS THE BEST FUEL FOR A 315R? VP 97 (super unleaded) 93 89 87 HAS ANYONE TRIED THEM ALL? OR A COUPLE OF THEM... WAS THERE ANY DIFFERENCE?

well i cleaned the carb not too long ago, but i could take a look at it if your sure of this, otherwise i would blame the gas im using, i sure its super old, just like the bike i just hope the problem is the gas not the bike, and.... so how's vp11o working on your bike? its it great, good, average, has it been better before? is it the best you've tried? convince me i should use it!!! thanks

hellow folks, i got this montesa cota 315r, they gave me this huge tank of BLUE GAS, i was told it was mixed with oil already (the front of the thank has a VP sticker). a friend of mine told me it was race fuel, and im about to finish it, im not sure what fuel to use, i dont consider race fuel an option but i could try getting it if nessesary. another important observation, i dont think my bike its running well, it feels ok at high revs, but otherwise it feels like its pushing and pushing and pushing every half/second, i heard it could be that this fuel its too old..... could it have something to do? so my options are: * VP (if nessesary, but tell me which one, cause i know there is vp2 and vp4 or something like that) * 93 octane <----(super unleaded??? is it???) * 89 octane * 87 octane, the other important thing would be what oil will i mix it with, and at what quantities, some say 80:1, but others say 70:1 will work better, anyone has try all of these fuel mixes?

yeah yeah, i have to thank eiaprilia who privately msg me and help me solved this problem, he though i either put in too much oil, or put the damper neddle the wrong way. since i didn't really deassamble the entire leg i went for the first option. i drained the oil, and i found i had actually put way over the recomended amount, so i pour in the recomended amount, and problem solved. Thanks to all of you guys, i believe the amount i used was 400cc, for each leg, i know there should be a difference between one leg and the other, but that is the way they were working before, and thats how they are working now. by the way eiaprilia seems to have lots of experience on these forks, if anyone has any problems on them im sure he will be glad to help you out a tumb up for eiaprilia!!! thanks bro.

hellow, i ve got a 315r with the showa forks i had 8-10wd oil in my fork, but as i saw videos of people bouncing their bikes i clearly say that thiers are way easier to bounce than mine. So today i decided to change my fork oil again, and my left leg seems ok, not as soft as i expected it but ok, while my right fork works well with the cover nut off, but as soon as i thighten it i turns into a stick, it does not compresses at all. something else, i read the adjusting screw on top of my right leg should click every turn.... right?, well mine does not, actually never since i bought it has it click but it sure adjusted the damping on the bike until now, it seems to have no effect with this new oil 5-7wd. i took out some oil from the right fork and it got better, but i just put in some more tryin to fix the prob, but it just got hard again. should i take out more oil, and leave both forks at 3.4 inches from the top? instead of left 3.4 inches and the right leg 1.5 inches from top? anyone knows what i did wrong, what i have to do to fix it,?

im having the same problem..... im getting tired,,,,, it seems to be only my right side leg so, what levels should i use, i saw a mark in the inner side of each fork and thats where i filled it up to, what did i do wrong? what level should i use? are we talking about the showa forks?

what would be a good price on a 2001 315r? i might end up selling mine... and getting another one and what other bike would be good to try, im completly new to trials... any suggestions? i heard beta makes great bikes, are they that great? how about sherco or gas gas? i ve seen 2 videos where 2007 gas gas swingarm breaeks . what would be a good option, gasgas, sherco beta, another montesa, 2t, or 4t? any suggestions?

all riiighttt im very happy now cause my 315r finally starrtttted... eae ae ae ae a, now i will make sure my clutch is working well, because i just changed the oil, and the friction plates so i will warm it up and hope it works, otherwise i will definitely go for those Surflex plates(bye the way i get these at lewisport?), as of today im still using some of the old plates and some of the new ones, but when im in 1st gear it turns off even with the entire clutch inn, anyways ill see how everything turns out. thank you all!!!

hohoho.... ea ea ea ea!!! finally its working!!!!!!! i changed the spark plug for a new one, i didnt get the correct one since they didnt have the right one, i tried it and nothing, then i went to another place and got the same one i had on(not the original) B8ES or B(something)8ES, not sure what the writing says, but its from NGK and tried it but nothing yet, then i checked all the cables and the CDi unit, because last thing i did before it stoped working was wash it with the tank off, so i poured a bucket of water on the motorcycle, later on i rechecked it and saw the kill switch was stock in... opened it up and kick it .... BRUMMM, BRUMMMMMMMMMM, BRUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, turn it off, and re start it and BRUMMMMMM AGAIN!!!!!, eaaaaa eaaaaa, i ammmm sooooo haaappyyy nowwww!!!! THANK YOU tt5th !!!!!! I REALLY APPRECIATE ALL OF YOUR HELPPP AND INTEEREST!!!! T H A N K Y O U!!!! by the way my cluctch seems to be working fine noww, thats an extra!!!

.... well i wasn't sure what i was looking for, after all it seem to be in good shape. so i opened it up and cleaned just about every jet choke hole, the hose that runs from side to side etc. exepct for the jet in the reservoir, where the floats are. i was too lazy to take the pin out and then the jet from there , if you think that might have anything to do, i could try cleaning that too. at the moment im changing the spark plug, but im no sure about the gap for it. im looking for it in the fourum. i kick the starter lever a couple of times with the spark plug off, and this black dirt flow over my face, from the cylinder head (where the sparkplug seats), the bottom of the sparkplug was all black too, is there any way to clean that or it don't matter?

all right, i did as you told me, i checked the spark plug, looked ok, then i looked for spark's, and nothing, then the killswitch, ok too, now i dont understand, i re-checked the spark plug, and i could not make a single spark with the screwdriver in it. then i lookd around for a new spark plug cap, since i didnt find one around i put the one it had back and tried turning the bike on and it actually turned on, then i turned it off after 3 or 4 min. i took it outside and tried turning it on again but nothing. i could not turn it on again. anyone knows what my problem is? and by the way, the little hose in the carburator that goes from side to side is meant to be cut, or is it only mine?, the mechanic told me it should not have that cut in between, that i should replace that hose. but the parts manual shows it with the cut i believe. click this link to view carburator part #19 (tube, Airvent)

i will try it as soon as i can start it thanks man!

no spark..... whats next? what exactly will i be replacing???

mmmm..... i opened the carb and cleaned it, it didn't look bad at all. i found that the red stuff was part of a cushioning from the rear shock. i haven't check it, but i imagine it wil be on for a while, and then go off again, or maybe it wont turn on. anyone has any ideas why it suddendly died, and i could not start it again?

.... my 315r just seem to have died, and i found this red stuff similar to a old air filter, under the carburator, laying over the centercase. when i backbleeded the rear brake, some of this stuff came out from the breake hose, but i bleeded it well and ignored it. now after riding for some 20 min, it went off,, i could not turn it on again, and i found more of this red filter-like stuff. Anyone has any idea what just happened? how do i fix it? ho.... i just found this in youtube i hope this solves my problem

wow, i never though that before, i will try this tonight see how it works out bro, THANK YOU ill let you know how it turned out tomorrow, or maybe later when i finish the job. thanks!!

well, i decided to change the plates because the clutch was not working, the previous owner said that. and yes, first time i changed the oil to the 85w gear oil it did not make smoke, now that i've change the oil to the 10-30w automatic transmission fluid it throws out lots of smoke. but that its not my primary problem, MY PROBLEM is how to make the clutch work, will apico steel plates work with the old friction plates (which most of them are done, except for 3 of them which are either different or newer, while the rest are all done.i can put back the old friction plates togheter with the stock steel plates, but im sure they won't work, as the owner toldme they didnt work, i can leave it as it is now with the 3 old plates that looked the newest, and the rest are the new friction plates from a CR250, but know it dont work either, because i rode it like this and its not yet working well, though it is improving, its way easier to find neutral, but now the PROBLEM IS that it IDLES or even DIES when im in gear and pull the clutch, and it wont stop the gear. hopefully, the problem is not my gearbox, can anyone figure out what the problem is? anyone runned into simillar problem?

i recently got this 2001, 315r montesa, i bleed the clutch well, and backbleed it too etc, the cylinder works well ( i checked it with the cover off, and it actually works) but the clutch doesnt engage well, when i pull the lever the gear keeps going unless i get it into neutral, shouln't it stop going when you press the clutch?, as if it was into neutral?the previus owner told he never did an oil change. as soon as i had it home i change oil and changed the friction plates, but i left out 1 friction plate and 1 steel plate, because the new friction plates(i believe they are from a honda CR250) are thicker than the stock ones and did not fit all together into the basket, and i used 85w gear oil. it didn't seem to work right so i changed the oil again( and again, oil came out like chocolate, and had just been on for about 10 min), and i selected the best friction plates from the ones it had, and combined with the new plates(the ones from a honda CR250) and this time i used ATF 10-30(it makes lots of smog), now when i'm in gear and pull the clutch it idles (but still does NOT neutralizes the gear), and even turns off unless i gas it. i have not use the bike for over 10 min in either case, because the clutch thing won't let my mind in peace. not only are the new friction plates(from a honda CR250) made of different materials, but also the stock plates have some half circles cuts in some of the notches and have a writing in them KA4 FP 4 and KA4 FP3. i wondered if they mean something or go in ANY ORDER? i know these bikes have drag problems etc, but i also read that apico steel plates help a lot, im about to go for them but they are 40 us $, and the friction plates from apico are 110 us$, so before i get those can anyone tell me if that will help at all??? or should i just change oil again. maybe even put back the old friction plates, which by the way seem to be the same from 2001, execpt for 3 or four, which looked newer. all opinions are welcome!!!!