lumpylion

I find the stock footpegs to be quite slippery and I replace them right away. S3 just released their aluminum version of the Hard Rock pegs with steel grip pins and I have to say they look beautiful. Other than some great but "not-so-neccesary" parts, the only really important things would be full length fork guards, bar ends, good grips, and possibly a pipe guard. If the bike came with a fuel filter, beware, the stock ones are dissolved by fuel easily.

Spill the beans man!

I got mine resoled by my local cobbler. To my knowledge they were sewn on, possibly also glued. They didn't last long however, and I ended up getting new boots shortly after. I've heard there isn't much use in resoling boots because they just don't stay on, I believe the leather just tears at the seams from old age.

I started my bike after cleaning the carb to find that the throttle cable had gotten bunched up. Being a 2010 Sherco, It had no petcock and the fuel pump and tank baffles keep it running upside down for a while. I ripped the plug cap off and got shocked so hard I almost lost the clutch with the other hand. The muffler blocking technique did not work either. We eventually got the throttle cable fixed but next time if I can't fix the cable I'll just rip out the carb. Starving the bike of fuel is not an ideal method seeing as the fuel is also the lubricant in a two stroke.

I have a 26mm PHBL on my 2010 Sherco 2.9 and I feel that the bottom end isn't nearly as strong as bikes I've ridden with the 28mm Keihin PWK or the 28mm VHST. I'll try to launch directly after landing on the rear wheel where I won't have enough time to use the clutch to wind the motor up but often find the front end dropping.

Not sure of the international availability but I love my halfback RYPegs. Aluminum skeleton with a replaceable steel cage.

Congratulations on the purchase. If the kink isn't the problem, check to see if the tip of the breather hose is clogged with mud. Also, running the throttle wide open for long periods of time (like on highways) can suck fuel faster than the pump can supply it.

When it's slick enough to put on a street bike! Just kidding, I usually ride them until the leading edge of the knobbies are about three millimeters from the carcass of the tire, unless I'm at the nationals. If you can still see grooves on the knobbies then they are definitely still good enough to flip around and keep riding.

Wow, that's strange. Is it an optical illusion or are the new dogbones thicker to maintain the same ID as the bearing style? I was going to say that if the dogbone of the bushing style was the same as the bearing one then the bushing would just have to be bigger to compensate for the larger ID.

Could these be the bearing surfaces that the bushing interfaces that replaces the bearings? They look like it.

Remember, the tire may have a huge influence on this too. Especially if it's been sitting under-inflated or stored funny in the warehouse.

Nah, looks nothing like them. Mine are much thicker.

I agree, Marzocchis would be very nice, but an Ohlins rear shock would be immense!

I was just informed by a Sherco dealer that the new wheels are a Morad clone of the D.I.D. wheels. Too bad they didn't come with the extra holes milled off.

It appears that Sherco has switched over to the D.I.D. (Montesa style) wheels for the 2011s. It's going to be this way for the second U.S. shipment onwards, not sure when this started for the UK and EU. Additionally, does the use of Marzocchi forks on the SSDT limited edition bike possibly foreshadow a switchover for all future models? It seems Sherco has been actively refining by using certain models to test (VHST carb on the 2010 Economy, bushings in the late 2010 linkage).