I would agree with cangy1000, clean area fully, then carefully remove the old seal. Then replace and then build up the surrounding area and above the seal location with a good quality chemical metal repair such as Belzona.
Greetings, both myself and my son ride 200's and I have moved the position on both, (see picture attached). Position is approx. 3.5cm rear wards and lowered to be in line with both wheel spindles, and we have never found a problem with front end lightness. Bars are Renthal 7/8" and 5 1/2" rise, tilted slightly forward in the correct top clamp. Hope this helps.
I think it's just the time of year (summer hols) and lots of trials (wed,sat,sun). Winter comes along and we are back to 100+!
Cheers
John
Hi john!
Yeah me and dad have both put entries in again,Chris was saying he has entered! and yeah I think that's one of the reasons for the shortage of riders and probably people are getting a bit disillusioned with riding at butsfield week in week out!
Way to much oil......I use a good quality ATF like TOTAL, around 900-1000ml is required or the use of the "weep" hole on the casing gives the desired level. The oil lubricates both clutch and gear box, top cat is correct on the location of the oil seal which over time deteriorates.
The casing can be removed with the shaft in-tact, carefully removing while applying pressure on the shaft end as not to dislodge the mechanism. replace the "o" ring and re-assemble.
Yep, picture 4 shows Phil "jacko" Jackson in the background (rider 105). I had many a mad two day weekend trialing with my late brother along with him and the "Tate" brothers. Happy days.
I have alloy Betors fitted to my 156 Fantic, I got them from TOR and at the time were the cheapest place to go. I have ridden many trials this year, highland 2 day, Nostalgia etc and many club trials with no problemo's. So I cannot fault em!! I got the 50lb springs initially , then changed them to the 40lb's and up'd the pre-load, this gives softer damping.....hope this of help in these difficult financial times....sorry forgot to add they were around £140.00 posted.....put them on your list to santa
It looks like it has been fitted with an electronic ignition conversion to me. The switch simply switches from electronic to points system, you should be able to tell by the bikes performance.
I have two minarelli 156 models, both circa 1981, the best and easiest twin shock to use effectively. I currently run standard dellorto's on both. If they used them from new what can you say! I would strip and clean your carb out using an ultrasonic cleaning tank (cheap as chips off ebay), then inspect the usual; slide, needle, pilot, atomiser etc replace if required along with a gasket kit.
I rebuilt my carb to keep it of the era etc, or you could fit a new one. there are OKO carbs out there but they need modifications and are prone to wear quickly.
never mind ATF spend £15 on a decent bottle of oil. Next take that new back tyre off and put it on your fantic, and next time you might get under double figures(marks lost). Chubby mate Jim lol( Cheeky F****r )
Are the 2011 300's a hand full compared to the same year 280cc?. I'm told the 300 is alot smoother and more user friendly - but would like some more opinions from other owners.
Any advice is appreciated
Cheers Tricks
Hi I have just been getting a 2011 300 and have been practising on it and i am inpressed with the smoothness of the power delivery, the rear tyre is an ex-lite and is knackered but it still grips for England. Have a new IRC to fit and will report back on my findings, Jim
- but would like some more opinions from other owners.
Fantic 200 engine case
in Fantic
Posted
I would agree with cangy1000, clean area fully, then carefully remove the old seal. Then replace and then build up the surrounding area and above the seal location with a good quality chemical metal repair such as Belzona.
Cheers