Hi Neo, from what I can find the plain and red Dellorto's are the same price. Maybe you were looking at the red Dellorto with a throttle position sensor?
Just to add to the comments already made. I had the opposite request not so long ago in that I wanted a faster clutch for splatters. Some obvious but great advice was to move the lever perch closer to the end of the bars. Moving your perch further away from your bar end would have the opposite effect and make it more progressive, that's if you haven't done that already.
I was under the impression that the plain VHST and red VHST are the same bar the colour. Some people might like the racing red?
I must be honest I have not paid much attention to the OKO carbs. I was even a bit put out when I found out my Gas Gas had a Dellorto. Call me a brand whore but I grew up thinking Keihin and Mikuni were the dogs danglies. I have done some checking up though and it would appear that a lot of the parts from the OKO and PWK 28 are interchangeable so I think it's safe to assume that the OKO is a copy of the PWK 28? Anyways how do you find the build quality of your OKO, and have you had a chance to compare it to a PWK 28?
Interesting topic. The main reason I am getting the Racing model Gas Gas this year is to try out the PWK 28 carb. Ohlins shock is a bonus too I must admit. Whilst I am very happy with the performance of my 300 with the PHBL carb I can't help but feel that it runs a little rich down low. I also find I use a lot of fuel relative to the other bikes but that may be more related to my riding style and the power of the bike. Although I have been reading up that the pilot circuit of the PHBL is inefficient. I am just hoping I don't get a loss of bottom end going from a 26mm bore to a 28mm bore. People describe the PWK as being smoother.... I hope that does not mean weaker. Another slight concern is having to twist the throttle further with the PWK to get the carb fully open. As it is with the PHBL I would like a faster action throttle than the white tube. I imagine with the PHBL the slide needs to open 26mm, with the PWK it would need to open 28mm. Maybe this is not true, guess I will have to wait and see. Worst comes to worst I could always machine up a faster tube out of ally.
Anyways if I am not happy with the PWK I am going to try out the VHST 26mm before resorting back to the PHBL.
No don't worry Dan I wasn't offended at all. Perhaps I should have stuck a smiley face at the end of my sentence, but I sometimes forget the serious tone of this forum.
I have been using the iridium plugs in my bike for a couple of months now and it does seem to start more consistently than with the original plug. I don't wear a Power Balance bracelet so my opinion should be worth something right?
The ATF I buy comes with an extendable spout, I think most should. If you cut the lip off the spout that stops it dropping back into the bottle, the spout fits perfectly into the clutch cover hole. No mess no fuss.
Thanks to all that replied. I landed up shortening the lever and modified it a little so I could grab it closer to the pivot point, and moved the perch closer to the end of the bars. It took a bit of getting used to but it is definitely an improvement. My finger is getting a proper workout now, but the clutch is much faster.
Thank you both for your replies. It is actually pretty hard getting information on this but this is what I have found so far.
Practically nothing on the 2002 clutch cover system, for some reason I cannot find a parts manual. This system uses DOT4, and found a bulletin that recommends an upgrade to the later clutch cover and parts that run with mineral oil. So even if I could get hold of this cover it would seem it has some issues, so probably best not to go there.
2003 upwards uses the same tophat as all the later model bikes so the ratio between master and slave cylinder would not change if I were to swap to any of the other covers.
I'm not so sure about finding a suitable master cylinder with a bigger bore.
I can probably move my lever perch more out but as it is I grab it as close as I can. My fingers are pretty short and stocky so the lever already squeezes on my middle finger knuckle when I pull the lever in, and it still feels like it takes too far out. No amount of adjustment can change this and I have already bent my lever a bit so I have more clearance for my middle finger.
So far the only viable solution seems to adjust the clutch pack so the fingers are lower, not sure if this is a good idea though. A stiffer belville washer should also get the clutch plates to bite sooner as the oil between the plates will get squashed out faster, by how much I don't know.
I wish I could find out more about the S3 clutch cover but there is next to no information on it. From their advertisement-
Hi, I must say I love my Gasser to bits but the one thing that took a bit of getting used to is the clutch. Coming from a Sherco the Gasser clutch does not seem to have as much bite and seems to take a longer time to engage. I have gotten used to this but had to ride a Sherco for a bit this past weekend as my mate wanted a ride on my gasser and it suddenly hit me how nice and "sharp" the clutch engagement is on the Sherco.
I know this is due to the unique design of the Gasser clutch but I am finding it takes a bit too long to engage when I want to do splatters. What would be the best way to go about giving me more bite from the clutch? I have read up all the posts on clutch adjustment, belville washer thicknesses etc. Seems like I either have to put in a thicker belville washer or put in a thicker steel plate to make the clutch release arms drop down. Both methods will make the clutch harder to use but I don't even notice the clutch at the moment so not sure if that would be an issue.
I guess I'm wondering if it really makes a noticeable difference to the speed of the clutch by changing the height of the clutch release arms. From what I have read it makes it a lot stiffer, but is the speed of engagement proportional to the increased stiffness of the clutch?
For interest I am running ATF and when I measured my arms height it was pretty much 17.5mm from what I can remember. There is nothing wrong with the bike that needs to be fixed, just me looking for more performance.
My guess would be a faulty thermo switch that kicks in at a lower temperature than it should. If the fan was spinning at a lower rpm than it should surely you would notice it? I do know that at one stage my fan was slowing down and making squealing noises, a bit of oil in the fan motor sorted that out though.
Mine were all the way out as well so I think it must be set like that by the factory, as I got my bike out the crate. I quite liked it, but had to put a bit more compression and rebound damping when I went to stronger springs.
It makes a big difference. I'm 95kg and the bike with std. springs feels like it has used up most of it's travel just standing on it. I would bottom out the forks just braking on a downhill, and the rear felt like a low rider. I think a lot of people don't know what they are missing out on by not getting springs suited for their weight. Look at the choices the enduro guys have for springs. You will give up a little of the small bump compliance but it will be better overall. If you could I would suggest doing the shock spring as well. I went with the 10% stiffer springs.
If you don't come right sourcing them locally you should not hesitate about ordering them from Lewisport. I got fork springs and a rear shock spring from them and the service was great, international shipping as well.
I used to battle with starting my 2010 TXT Pro 300 but now it starts 1st or second kick at worst. Using the choke is a must if it has been standing for anything more than a short bit if you want to guarantee a start. The other trick is using a very forceful kick after getting the piston to TDC and using the full stroke of the kick start. Due to the suggestions on this forum I also use Iridium plugs- BPR5EIX and it also has helped. If you have your choke out and you are battling then my guess is you are not getting the engine to cycle over fast enough because of your busted knee. If I let someone else who doesn't ride a Gas Gas try and start my bike they will hardly ever get it to start first time because they do not kick it as hard as I do, partly because the Gas Gas has a very different feeling when kick starting compared to other bikes.
I take 2 x 1L plastic Coke bottles with when I go or a long ride (which is just about every weekend). I have never had one leak or fail but the seals in the lids need to be replaced every couple of months. The nice thing about 2 x 1L is that it sits comfy in the Camelbak Mule net compartment.
I suppose it depends what you want from a bike and the conditions you ride in. Over here it is dry most of the time and I have a preference for strong bikes. I absolutely love my 2010 300 and cannot imagine going back to something as soft as my old 2.9 Sherco, or worse, a Beta. Jap zaps and the like are a blast with the zippy and powerful motor, but my friend on his Evo does seem to have an easier time where the traction is bad. As far as faults my bike has been very reliable, and I ride quite a lot. If there was one thing I would like to improve is the exhaust mounts as they crack quite often, thankfully they supposedly have with the 2011 models. Maybe it is just me being a little rough on the bike.
You do feel it more on the front because the shock from bumps travels straight up your arms. I did test my bike with just the fork springs but you don't realise how much the bike is sagging in the rear until you put a stiffer shock spring in as well. Also gives more ground clearance and we know that is a plus with the foot pegs being so low. It will be better with stiffer fork springs in but even better still with both front and back done.
Dave I am just off your weight at 95kg without kit. The std. springs are not up to the job of supporting our weight and have used up a great deal of travel just standing on the bike. The springs are designed for lightweights of 70kg or so. As such I replaced my springs in the forks and shock on my Gas Gas with 10% stronger springs I got from Lewisport. It made a huge difference. I would suggest doing both forks and shock to keep things balanced. Compression on forks is all the way out, rebound I think around 4 in from all the way out as rebound speed increased with stronger springs. Back shock rebound also screwed in a turn I think from all the way out. I also use my Gas Gas for the odd hard enduro.
From his description he had play in the bearings caused by either the locking nut backing out a little or the threads stretching a bit on the shaft and / or nut. I have found this to be normal as I have had to adjust mine periodically on my bike and my mates bike from new. Having a 20 diam ally shaft it can be expected. But it is related to how aggressive you ride. If there was no slight movement, and when you turned the bars there was clicking then it would be time for new bearings.
Heya, I have to adjust mine every so often to remove the clicking. In fact last week the actual shaft snapped clean off at the bottom of the thread where the top bearing is. Luckily I noticed it before any more damage could happen, although it just sounded like it needed to be adjusted again. You need to remove the top triple clamp to adjust properly anyways, so while it is off I just inspect the top bearing and if need be I will regrease both with waterproof grease.
sounds stupid but you could have something small in your engine possibly enterted through the exhaust that could be causing the pistons to jam open or something along those lines
You are right that does sound stupid, but thanks for the laugh!
On a serious note I agree with JSE. The fact that it is random would suggest the throttle slide getting stuck or cable jamming, or getting hooked somewhere. Also the symptoms of an air leak will be different to a slide being stuck wide open. With the slide stuck wide open the bike will rev up and have FULL POWER because there is the correct mixture (and a lot of it too) of air and fuel. You would need a massive air leak to let enough air in for the bike to have full power when the slide is down, and even then there would not be enough fuel to go with that massive air leak as the needle is all the way in the main jet hole. To demonstrate what I am saying, turn your tap off and let the bike idle. When the bike starts running lean as the bowl is low on fuel the revs will start to climb pretty high, but the bike will have no power and if put under load it will die.
A friend and myself use FUG IT which is the same type of product. It works very well and stops all the little leaks and punctures. I have had no problems with valve leaks but I suppose it is possible. A spray with the hosepipe cleans out the mess when changing tyres.
phbl versus vhst carb
in Sherco
Posted
Hi Neo, from what I can find the plain and red Dellorto's are the same price.
Maybe you were looking at the red Dellorto with a throttle position sensor?
From Splatshop-
"Dellorto VHST 28mm Red Performance Carburettor