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To add to Alans comment, sand the caliper side in a figure "8" motion to get the best result.
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The need to produce a risk assessment is without a doubt a consequence of the claim culture, but don't blame the ACU (I'm not even a member). All they are doing is protecting the organisation, how would it be if the ACU folded because some MX lunatic took a crowd out & consequent legal action brought it to its knees ? Its all about being seen to take "reasonable actions" to prevent/avoid incidents.
So far as a risk assessment is concerned, IMHO it should be no more than a documented record of what(I suspect) a Clerk of the Course/Section Designer does any how when he plans an event (parking, sections appropriate to skill levels, warnings & waivers etc).
The two things the ACU could/should do is provide a checklist of things to consider so the club has somewhere to start, along with a poster that can be put up at the signing on area with the list of does, dont's and you're on your owns.
A final thought, this probably has as much to do with keeping the public liability insurance fees down as anything else ...
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Just a though ... Why not print up some stickers "Trials Central Sponsor 2006" and put them on E-bay for a
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This may be of use ....
Beamish Owners Club
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Did I read this wrong or did a dealer return a new bike to you and tell you it was difficult to start ????
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Did the bike make the noise before the rebuild ? if yes its probably normal (most trials bikes do this to some extent)
If it only did it post rebuild, take it back.
Health warning ! - I have never owned, ridden or seen a techno so if you are lucky somebody who knows might post, if not, ride it and see if anything falls off or take it to your dealer.
As an aside my Sherco sounds like a bag of old spanners till I pull the clutch in
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Got mine here seems ok ....
Trialsbits
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No nowt about washing machines, seems you have a wealth of knowledge
Got a missus to do that job, I have a rough idea where the washing machine is, I have a feeling it is located in the kitchen, but I don't go there either
Sorry I can't help, and no you can't bring your riding gear round here
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Q: Why do women get married in white ? A:So they match the other appliances .....
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If the effect is to clean the disks then couldn't the point be proven by giving both disks a good spraying with Brake Cleaner before you start a ride. The result should be the same shouldn't it ?
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Seems the buyer is Italian, maybe he thinks it Euros (or Lira) he's paying in ?
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Cant speak for all of em but my 2001, 290 does and hasn't gone bang, 3 trials after a rebuild.
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I started about a year ago at 45 on a TY Yam and have managed to stay out of hospital (so far). Rode a trial last weekend & went round with a 66 year old who had just returned to the sport after a 30 year lay off ...
We're youngters ! enter a trial and enjoy, it realy is a great sport.
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BVM have the Mitas rear at
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Clutch on my 290 does as you describe, I find leaving it on tickover for a couple of mins to warm up helps a bit.
As has been mentioned may times on this forum, check to see if you have a black throttle (slower action)having swopped toone I found it helps.
Also if it has not already been done replace the two screws holding the rear guard on with cable ties, may well save you having to buy a new mudguard should the worse happen.
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I have always found a fine sluge of metal on any magnetic sump plugs I have removed from either cars or bikes. As long as there are not bits (lumps!) that look like they fell off, or were chipped off of a internal part I would say that that you don't have a problem.
If the manufacturer didn't think there was metal to collect on the magnet he would have saved some money & not fitted one (IMHO)
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Have to say just completed my first trial on the bike post rebuild, no problems (other than its way to powerful for a rider of my standard, but a real laugh) Thanks for all the advise. Like the man said, its not to hard if you have some spannering experiance, take your time & and have a half decent work area.
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There are other wiser than me who will corrcet me if I am wrong, but I dont think there is a level plug as such. If the bike is second hand & new to you an oil change would be a good idea anyhow.
The fuel/oil ratio on my 290 is on a sticker on the frame near the headstock (2%) I would guess yours is the same. Failing that go to the Ryan Young Website (search "RYPUSA") more info there than you can shake a stick at.
enjoy the bike
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Thanks Mr Dabster & others, will pass the comments on to my mate
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Thanks Big John, he has already spoken to Dave Renham who doesn't do anything other than the standard Bing.
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I am asking on behalf of a mate who has a 350 Sherpa and has heard of a Mikuni conversion. Does anybody have any experiance of the change, what carb model it uses, what the jet sizes are and most importantly whether or not its worth bothering with ?
Thanks in advance, Mike
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I can understand why you would want tubeless tyres on a high performance motorcycle (in terms of BHP and speed on the road) but it escapes me as to why you would bother on a trials bike. Especially with the problems that seem to exist in sealing the rims round the spokes.
Can anybody explain the benefits please ?
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Hi Howard, I trained as a Mechanical Apprentice (many years ago !) but about the most complex thing I deal with now on a practical level is a propelling pencil, so all comments/advise gratefully accepted
Thanks for the help .. Mike
btw i did replace the seals !
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Hi Wayne, the boreto piston gap takes a 0.04mm feeler gauge (shim) fairly snugly so its probably up around 0.002". To be honest the piston is starting to show its age but I have decided to use it (with new rings) and see how things go.
I can take the barrel off during the winter and worry about it then if there is a real problem
Have to say I was pleasently surprised at the price of sherco parts, hope to receive the parts tommorow & start the rebuild over the weekend.
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HW thanks for the advise, a quick copy of the (patent ignored) Charlie C flywheel holder sorted the drive pinion removal & I am happy (?) to report the arrival of two very slogged main bearings (rusty, suspect its that old pressure washer thing again) but all the other parts (bar a tired small end) seem fine.
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OK so I have started taking the thing to bits and am looking for a tip on how to restrain the clutch basket so I can undo the nut on the primary drive gear.
As always, all help appreciated .... Mike
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