caddabs

and for the classists Ariel on a G string - bach Classical Gas gas - ?

Great - i've got a 2000 Sherco and have a silver golf with a Dave cooper rack. Hope to see you there. Cheers

Hi there - good to hear from another local ! Are you doing the Norwich Viking Trial on the 20th ? - i'll be there (hopefully) wobbling around, so do come say hi. Nice one & best of luck - there are some really nice people about and i've found it a really nice sport to get into at a later age too. Hope to see you there - Cheers

Careless Xispa - Wham Tiger Cub Feet - Mudd

Got to wondering about a trials top ten and wonder if you can add any more to the list below? When i'm Pre-65 - The Beatles Do it Clean - Echo & the Bunnymen Stone Three - Jimmy Hendrix Ossa Nova Baby - Elvis Presley Beta it - Michael Jackson Just a thought........................

i would recommend you take advice from DC, they are very helpful. i have mine on an estate and bought one that comes out a little further. also , there may be no point in fitting the ball until you have the rack as you will only have to take it off again. you may struggle to get it tight enough and its best for the tow bar people to fit it and torque it down - unless of course you have a torque wrench. when i had mine fitted, they were worried that the front of the car might lift, but its been no problem at all and you dont notice its there. seems a bit odd when you take into account the weight of the engine. remember to buy extra long bolts too. also when you use it, dont do what i do, and load the bike up and then forget that you have a whole heap of stuff to put in the boot! hope that helps

I've wrapped Pipe lagging round mine with cable ties - no more sore shins !!

Thanks all for the input. Yup its a 2000, so i guess no weeper. hopefully i'll get away with just the seal - fingers crossed ! Its a bit of a pain that the coolant filler cap is so tucked away with no easy way to see whether its dropped without taking everything off and moving the electrics - but i have learnt my lesson and will check it more frequently Thanks again all - Caddabs

Thanks guys - just went out and checked the coolant and its as dry as a bone. oh dear. very glad i decided to change the oil now! hope no damage done as i had a quick ride last weekend and who knows how long its been like that. lesson learnt. many thanks for the link - not sure i'm that handy with the spanners but will think on how to sort it. thanks for your help. caddabs

Thought it was about time to change the oil as its been about 6 months. having undone the plug a grey coloured oil came out, which after a while tuned galaxy chocolate brown. my clutch does drag a bit, but is ok when warm, but isnt that common for Shercos? the oil that went in was Ipone 100% synthetic and was normal oil colour. any ideas on why such an odd colour - is it normal for synthetic oil. when i last changed it in November it came out a deep red colour. (i bought it in October so i dont know what it was that went in before October this is only my second change.) thoughts gratefully received. cheers all - Caddabs

if your still in restoratative mood - my mate has just put his 305 on ebay - best of luck Fantic 305

Good news Off in search of Nulon - nice one !!

I'd just like to say thank you to Ryan and his team for their excellent service. I ordered some parts from his website Ryan Young Website and for various reasons, including a slightly over zealous bank thinking my card had been stolen and cancelling the whole thing, the order turned into a bit of a mare, with several mind changes on my part. Ryan and his team gave me excellent customer service, patiently exchanging emails, sending me photographs and offering advice. I must have driven him mad, which was not my intention. So i would thoroughly recommend Mr Young and his team and say thanks again for bearing with me.

Nice one chaps I'm off to a Happy Eater to get me some squeezy ketchup ! My oil has been in a couple of months now. Its not a problem when warm, so i think i shall stick to my "if it aint broke, dont fix it" mantra before i look at the plates. It was a Gas Gas rider who recommended ATF, but thanks for the advice will stay well clear and give Nulon a go next time. Have fun - Caddabs.

Thanks Neo - i think i need to work on my technique as last time it must have taken a couple of hours to drip feed 450ml in there. was hoping a baster might be the answer, but maybe not. I've got a spare filler cap which i have been meaning to drill out and solder a 90 degree angle on, but its at the thinking it through stage still. Other guys i have chatted to swear by ATF , but they didnt ride Shercos. Is that worth a go or is Nulon the answer? as a matter of interest - how often do you change it?

That is indeed fantastic news, that clutch Nirvana may have been discovered I'm using Ipone Synthetic Oil which does the job fine once warm, but when cold or unused for a while, drags like an episode of Lost. Now you have found it, do you have any tips on getting it in? a horizontal filler isnt the most user friendly. I'm going to try a turkey baster to see if i can shoot it in there. Good news

i'd be tempted to check the plug and the jets. if its happening on wider throttle openings, like a long blast accross the fields , it sounds like the plug might be oiling up. i think (worth checking) that the main jet is the one for wider throttle openings. the 2000 has a 126 main and 33 pilot jet not sure about the 2002.

I had a power loss problem with my 290 which i think was a combination of a few things. I got it ridiculously muddy and overheated it. so worth checking you have enough coolant & keep the mud off the radiator. i also fitted a larger pilot jet and now run it on 80:1. my mix screw is 3.5 turns out but i guess it depends where you live etc.discovered the carb was full of crud too. touch wood all good now. dont know anything about stators, but those are my experiences. good luck.

Tried the screwdriver to the ear test and it sounds like its coming from the hub. took it out and tried the finger in each bearing test and it still knocked. took the disk off and tried again and it stopped !! Put disk back on, re-assembled, and it still knocks. oh well - at least its not a bearing. i think i can live with it and apologies to those who suggested it was the disk - you were right ! Cheers - Caddabs

Nice - if i could read mine a bed time story and tuck it in i would! get the Strawberry flavour pre-mix - its as good as aftershave, but for some reason my wife doesnt like it

Coming at this afresh, I cant help but notice that the ACU gazette could be updated a little. A commendable update on the website, however could i please make a plea for a key or glossary ? Those that know, know, but those that dont find it really frustrating to find out. Entries such as CR, RI, RR, are great if you know what it stands for, but all i want to know is can i ride in it or not? That leads me to classes - yes, i fully accept i should RTFM, but its stopping my door from closing at the moment. I'm a beginner and frankly not that great, but i'm keen and will have a go. All i want to know is "can i enter", but under the list of classes this varies from "B" Class (which includes Novices) Championships, which also include Novices, 2 strokes (can i enter that one?) and "C" Class. Goodness knows which Class i am in, all i know is that the Novices i have seen have been excellent and too good for me. Isnt it possible just to have Experts, Inters and Novices, rather than "B", "C" Experts, Inters, Novices, beginners & wobblers, two strokes and presumably "A" and "D" ? Again i accept that there needs to be a category for T/S and pre-65, but why so many classes and how do i know which one i am? A glossary would help here, or a stamp on the Licence? Then there is the entry form - why does an entry for a trials competition have a box to tick for MX Expert or MX Junior? This isnt a rant or moan , but all i ask those that produce the official documentation is "imagine your new to the sport and would it make sense?" Perhaps i can help with that - no it doesnt. It seems from what i read that the sport is desperate to attract new blood. Perhaps it could start with some clarity rather than confusion and a slight feeling of exclusion to those that dont know. Just a thought......................back to my shed and keep my head down.

Thanks All - will have a good look over the weekend and try to keep my fingers intact Might be a duff bearing, but difficult to put the old ones back in now as they came off worse from a good wack with a screwdriver/hammer combo. if i cant trace it - might just rev it harder so i cant hear it ! Cheers - Caddabs

Thanks for those thoughts chaps. I had a look at the diagram too and agree, however when i take the speedo drive off, the spacer on the right (disk side) isnt big enough and the spindle sticks out of the threaded fork leg. Its posisble the spacer may have been shortened to allow for the speedo drive. The speedo is defunkt as the tab is broken off and merely rotates as a spacer. Its definately not the disk, which would click, or clang. This is a definate knock. so far i have only had the wheel in the air on a workshop stand, i havnt tried it under load yet on the ground. The spacer between the bearings is a mystery too. I just put back what i found. Its an ally spacer which fills the gap between the 2 bearings. It has a hole drilled in it in the middle (no not the one where the spindle goes!) and an "O" ring which sits in the middle over the hole. should i junk it? I would like to junk the speedo drive so if the middle spacer isnt doing anything i could cut it down. How tight should the spindle be? I assume you tighten it until you get a bit of friction on the bearing and then back it off a shade? Thanks again - Caddabs.

This is potentially a stupid question, but hey ho. Having recently changed my tyre, i took the opportunity to strip the front wheel down and change the bearings and generally clean it up. I have re-assembled it, but have a strange "knock" each time the wheel goes round. The bearings are brand new and fitted flush with the outside of the hub. Between the bearings, inside there is a spacer with a rubber "o" ring between the bearings which i have cleaned, greased and replaced. I have a large spacer on the right, the wheel then an old speedo drive which acts as a smaller spacer. The speedo drive isnt moving, and its not the disk. I really dont want to push the bearings out again for fear of damaging them. Its definately a knock and not a Clang. Nothing is rubbing and the wheel spins smoothly and doesnt jolt, wobble or anything else. Any ideas ? Its driving me nuts. Have i got the spindle too tight? (wheel runs very freely), is it the spacer in the middle with the "o" ring moving about? Have i inadvertently flexed the right hand fork leg? Its probably simple, but several attempts to find it have failed. Many thanks - Caddabs

Best of luck Tony. Hope you enjoy it - i have certainly found the forum very useful and the sport as a whole incredibly friendly and helpful. Good luck in your first trial - i'm a beginner too and managed 12 sections in my first trial and 18 in my second - one day i might get to 30 !! My strong recommendation is see if you can find a buddy/mentor to help you round - its invaluable and helps take a bit of the scariness out of it all. Thanks again Wherry if your reading this ! Have fun