Upper Swingarm Bearing Removal

[neonsurge]

I'll keep this brief since I've asked far too many bearing-related questions here recently:

How do I remove siezed upper linkage bearings (where the linkage connects to the swingarm) on a '99 GasGas 270TXT without a bearing press/puller? Is it possible? Would heat and perseverence work? They can't be drifted out 'cos the bearing is flush with the swingarm casting.

Once again, I'm totally unworthy...

[glenn]

Hi

You should be able to knock the hole asemblely out ether side as its a parrallel bore. It will be very tight as you are pushing 2 bearing out at the same time and both are a tight fit. put an old 10mm bolt through the hole to keep every thing straght as it comes out.

[neonsurge]

Thanks for the reply.

Hmmm. I'm not sure that I understand what you mean. The hole through the swingarm is dual-bore; the bearings are pushed into the outer bore on either side so that they're flush with the inner bore and the bush is inserted through the lot (see attached pic). There's no way that you could remove both bearings in one go, unless I'm missing a trick somewhere.

[jrsunt]

i take it the picture is of the main s/arm pivot point. if it is, find a correct sized socket, a perfect fit against the bearing edge but not too big to catch the housing. Now you need to press the bearings out in the vice, using a larger socket to press the bearings into. confused? i am.

[alan bechard]

From your picture, and unfamiliar with what you are doing, a liberal dose of your favorite weasel p***, and a little heat gun heat.

Then drive out the bushing with a brass drift.

Then square up the edge of a small brass drift and put through from one side to the opposite bearing and tap it out gently working around in circles.

A little heat here helps, I suggest a heat gun so that you have a regulated temperature. You can also get it nice and hot, then take a sliver of dry ice and put it in the bearing you are trying to pull.

I have a blind bearing removal tool made by OTC in the Stinger line that I would probably use there. D. Sileo suggested it too me, and when you get bearings like that that are a real bugger, it can be real helpful.

If things get real ugly.

Pull the seal, then reach in with a dremel or small die grinder and cut or more appropriately grind, a slit in the bearing shell. This is tedious and risky. After you get a little slot going and the needles out of the way, a small blade screwdriver and some gentle pressure will collapse the bearing shell onto itself. If the bearing is truly "grown" into the bore, this can be what you have to do.

[neonsurge]

That sounds like a reasonable plan of attack, Alan. There's no problem getting the bush out - let me explain (if only to get some fustration off my chest):

I recently replaced the entire "bottom end" of the suspension linkage, dogbones, spacers, bearings, the lot at a total cost of nearly

[wayne thais]

As you put everything back together you may want to apply a leveral coating of a mixture that I have had success with. I mix up a batch of super gooey Maxima waterproof grease 2/3 and some good black anti seize 1/3. I liberally apply this to everyhing and have had very good success with bearing life.

[neonsurge]

Thanks for everyone's help. I'm told what I need is a "blind bearing puller". Problem is, they're

[alan bechard]

I would not buy a blind bearing puller just to do that one job. You may very well find that it will not work.

Sometimes, you can buy a lag shield that will lock into the bearing, then hook a slide hammer onto it and pull it out.

But, guessing from your description, that thing will be completely "grown" into the outer material and most things like those pullers will have a real hard time getting enough grip.

I would try some artful grinding and collapsing of the shell.

[glenn]

Hi

Sorry your's must be an earlyer model. On my 99 txt the bore was the same diameter for its full legth, the same as the 03 pro i have now.