nitjay - hrc Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 (edited) Hi, The middle exhaust box has a slight crack in it down the left hand side (its not in the usual place right at the bottom of the middle box) , i dont think its blowing through it, it almost looks like its been wacked rather than split due to weakness. i have been advised it needs repairing before i ride it again. I take it i need to take it to an ally welder, do i have to take the whole unit off? if so is it very difficult and will i need to replace any seals or anything? I will try to upload a pic later. Thanks guys! Also the clutch is dragging (Edit) the smallest bit, but its making everyone who rides my bike stall it, is there a checklist or something i can go through to try to get rid of it! Cheers Edited October 15, 2006 by Nitjay - HRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jreilly Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Hi,you will have to remove upper shock mount and silencer.Middle esxhaust just slips on header pipe there are a couple o rings but they most always come off fine with pipe part.As for clutch never have had any problems with slipping.JR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Middle box is as per previous post, its easier to remove and re install if you warm it up a little first. Use a hot air paint stripper, it doesnt take much heat to make a difference. The clutch problem is most likely the wrong oil or it needs changing, what oil do you run ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitjay - hrc Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Here is a low quality image with the crack (approx width and size and placement) Any ideas what happened? will it be able to be welded? does it still need to come off? Thanks once again! I want to get this sorted so i can get back to riding again. http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/6826/zaustos1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 It will need to come off and you'll need to take the two seals out of the front hole that slides over the down pipe from the head as the welder may melt them due to the heat involved. Its really easy to do, about fifteen mins work. I've seen these mid sections changed at the SSDT so don't worry. As said before, tank off, rear guard, airbox with exhuast still attached, remove top shock bolt and swing shock back and pull it off. Good time to get the carb out to and give it a clean too. As for the clutch, I guess you've tried new oil? Have you got the right amont? you need around 600ml. Also check you've got enough fluid in the resi at the bars. Too little and you won't get full operation. Be carefull though, don't put too much in or you'll generate too much pressure down below and push the piston out ot the housing! Good luck, let us know how you get on and get in touch with any snags. By the way, moving on to a Beta soon so get the advice from me while you can!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitjay - hrc Posted October 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Right thanks Boo! I am going to get it off on Sunday, i wanted to take it off because it gives me an excuse to give it a good clean up, (including carb) and whilst im doing work i may as well fit my fuel filter. Would it be a good idea whilst its off, to get the middle box reinforced along the bottom end where it normally cracks (like it says on the Birkett site) With the clutch, im not sure about oils etc because there are different reccomendations for the amount of oil to put in the bike. I will check the reservoir at the bars though, and when i next change the oil i will try a different one. Is there a particular oil that Scorpas really like? or could it be that the clutch is not properly adjusted? if this is the case should i fiddle with the little arm by the engine? or leave that alone. So many questions! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 I've tried lots of oils and they all do pretty much the same. I now use Motul 5100 10W40 engine oil, same as you'd put in your car. This is what is in the bikes when supplied by Scorpa and its what Birks and co recomend. You could use any 10W40, it should all be made to the same spec. Before you do anything change the oil, adding 600ml's. I know what you mean about the differant advice, the TYZ book say's 700, some folk say 550, I've used 600 on mine since new and it's now 4 years old, no probs. I've done some big trials too including the SSDT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitjay - hrc Posted October 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 I am using Motul Transoil 10W30, is this wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted October 20, 2006 Report Share Posted October 20, 2006 Wouldn't of thought it would make much differance. I think the 10W bit is all do with the flow of the oil in winter. The 30 bit is viscosity, so a 30 is thinner than a 40. Have you changed your oil? If so and the problem is still there after the oil and engine is warm then it will be the fluid level in the resi, almost sure of it. I had the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldcake Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 Do you mean that you can us 10w40 instead of gear saver,i have been told that you can use automatic transmission oil.Is this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 Its what Scorpa recomend. If I recall correctly its what Yamaha say to use in the TYZ manual as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmike1961 Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Resurrecting an old post. Just found my centre box has a big crack in it too. runs for about half the width of the box just above the main weld that joins the two halves Anyone got any idea what grade ally they're made from? Cost of a new one incase welding fails? Are new ones still available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmike1961 Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 No worries, it all welded up fine. Big thanks the Nick at The Forge, Horsham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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