jonno Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Hi all, my rear brake lever/pedal was nearly touching the bash plate before it had any effect, so first thing i did was give it a re bleed, which made it feel firmer when it did lock but there was still a lot of travel until it did anything, so i replaced the pads, however the pedal is still only just about the bash plate before the brake starts to work, any ideas? many thanks Jonno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olwhittyone Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 I had a techno '97. Your very lucky to get anything at all, i spent loads of time and money trying to get mine working - had new caliper master cyclider brake hose etc, never did work. Have you got the the adjuster on the cylinder fully extended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-eddy- Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Sounds like a new master piston could solve it, if you do get it done let me know how much it is please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 if you look just below the piston it should have a little rod which pushes into the cylinder and is connected to the pedal at the rear, it should have a nut on it, undo the nut and then twist the little bar it should adjust the pedal as to how far it travels before it actually works etc just dont overdo it as i think the little bar can come out and is a pain to get back in but not too sure though, someone else might tell you that, it worked on my gasser coxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebedee Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 I bought a '97 Techno at the start of the Summer. I have replaced the caliper and put a large bottle of fluid through the line. The adjuster is at its optimum reach and still breaking is useless. I understand that it is just the way that some are and no matter how much time and money you throw at it you might as well live with it! Front brake stops on the button however. Weird! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boofont Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 Back brakes are a pain. You can get repair kits for the master cylinder. It contains a new piston, seals and springs. It's really easy to change, once done back bleed with a syringe from the caliper. Try to do this either on the bench, i.e. with everything removed from bike (I serviced the caliper at the same time so had it removed) or with the bike in a near vertical position. I use tie-downs from the garage roof to the bars but as long as you can get the bike near vertical you'll be fine. This helps to allow the air to rise to the resi as you push the fluid through. Once bleed, leave it hung up for 24hrs with the brake pushed down. I also give evrything a bit of a tap with a hammer to knock any trapped air to the resi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mort Posted October 27, 2006 Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 when bleeding ,dont remove all the freeplay in the lever.little is needed for it to seal correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcmcrider Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 Hi all, my rear brake lever/pedal was nearly touching the bash plate before it had any effect, so first thing i did was give it a re bleed, which made it feel firmer when it did lock but there was still a lot of travel until it did anything, so i replaced the pads, however the pedal is still only just about the bash plate before the brake starts to work, any ideas?many thanks Jonno I went through this with mine and the problem turned out to be a slightly tweaked rear caliper hanger. The bent hanger results in the caliper being slightly out of alignment with the rotor so when the brake is released, the flex causes the pistons to be pushed slightly further back in the bores than otherwise. The result is that when you step on the brake, part of the very limited motion of the pistons is used just to reset the pads against the disk. If this doesn't make any sense, hold a wooden ruler lightly in your hand, put it in your mouth and bite down. Now relax your jaw slightly and then bite again. How much motion did your jaw require to put a large force on the ruler. Very little. Now when you relax your jaw, place a twisting force on the ruler with your hand so that your teeth are forced apart slightly and then bite again. This time, the motion required is a lot more than the previous time. The essence of the problem is that the minimalist design of the braking system only allows for a tiny amount of motion in the slave cylinder with full excursion of the master cylinder. If for any reason, ie air bubbles, or misalignment, this motion is wasted, there won't be enough left over to do the job of creating the force on the pads. I fought with this issue for a couple of days before I figured out I needed a new hanger. I even tried to straighten mine but couldn't do it accurately enough. A soon as I replaced the hanger, the problem vanished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted November 4, 2006 Report Share Posted November 4, 2006 Hey BCBeta, Thought this picture might help with your explanation (but I understood it anyway ) Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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