lpd Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Ok so I sorted out the noise and power loss in the bike. Seems I had a worn main bearing and leaky gasket. Carb was cleaned and the bike runs tip top. I also had a shock bushing replaced. Here's my new dilemma. After the shock bushing was replaced it feels like the bike rides tilted forward? I went out for a ride afterwards and it seemed as if I was plowing into obstacles and had a hard time lifting the front end. Also on down hills it was sketchy to say the least. Felt like I was going to twist out and crash everytime I hit a root/rock ect. Also on flat surfaces if I hit a root ect. the front end would skate or deflect off of it. I thought I could lower my forks, but will this suffice? Prior to the work on the bike the suspension was perfect. Only the shock mount bushing was replaced making me wonder if it was worn the rear sagged a little. Any ideas appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted October 23, 2006 Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 Q1 Is the rear suspension moving freely? (maybe there is a tight spot) Q2 Is there less rear suspension sag since the work was done? (maybe the spring preload was adjusted by the person changing the shock bush) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpd Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 The rear seems to move freely although I'm going over it tonight to see if maybe he tightened it down a little too much. Also not sure about the rear sag. If he adjusted it I'm sure he would have said something but maybe not. I can't ask him until Tuesday as he's closed Mondays. I just lowered the forks in the front clamps for now. Rides a little smoother but not like it did before the work was done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 lpd i'm puzzled. If the bush has been replaced surely the back end is higher so how does dropping the forks help ? that should make it worse ? You probably need to reduce the tension on the shock spring to get the ride height back to where it was with a worn bush or if the spring length is right then you just need time to adjust ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpd Posted October 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 Sorry, I meant to lengthen the forks by dropping them down in the fork clamps. The fellow who worked on my bike indicated that he thought the rear suspension on my bike had stiff suspension. I'm going to measure the sag tonight for starters and then go from there. Any idea how to adjust the rear shock? I don't want to just adjust without an idea of what I'm doing. Also noticed one other weird thing. I flushed the fluid in my forks and ontop of the spring sits a nut then a grey spacer about 4" in height. Because it looked so clean and not hand cut I assumed that it was stock but now I'm not so sure. Same width as pvc but it is grey. Then the adjuster ontop of that. I know the fellow who owned the bike before me was heavier, but that seems like alot of preload. With the fork extended and the spacer on the spacer sits about 1/2 inch above the fork tube? I can post some pics to explain further. Should this be removed? I'm 150lbs wet so I'm wondering if it has too much preload? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lpd Posted October 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 One last thing. I checked manuals for the front suspension and the Marzochi 40mm has the sleeve I'm speaking of. My bike is a 2001 model, but the forks appear to be the model in the link I posted here. The part I'm speaking of is #4 Forks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 Fork springs with the spacers are normally longer than the fork at full extension in my experience. Good way to try out if they are too hard is to put a zip tie round the stanchion tube, ride the bike and then you will know how close they get to full travel. Your forks should operate between 1 quarter and 3 quarters of travel in straightforward sections and only bottom out if you are travelling at speed or jump off somthing pretty big. your rear suspension should have about an inch to 2 inches of sag without you standing on it. bear in mind these are the settings I like but it gives you a start point. you should be able to adjust the spring length by turning the collars assuming the shock body is threaded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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