wilsonwash8 Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Hello all, Can anyone tell me the head/cylinder torque specs for the 1987 TLR 200 Reflex? Looks like I'll be reassembling the 200 this evening! Thanks, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superhondaman Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 28-30N.m (2.8-3.0kg-m,20-22ft-lb) taken from TLR 200 Work shop manual. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsonwash8 Posted November 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Thanks very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian r Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Got it up and running yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsonwash8 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 It lives! Putted around the yard enough to know that the bars were too low for me. Had some old Inter Am solid bars in the shed that makes the back feel better. The bike runs great. I took it out a bit yesterday in the rain and had a good time. Looks like I'll need to attend to the steering head bearings as using the front brake produced a tiny bit of movement in the triple trees and a clink sound. The bike is street plated, but I doubt I'll be doing very much sit down riding on it - not terribly comfortable. Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to enter it in a twin shock class after removing the non essentials. I like the power and feel of the bike. Here's a list of what I had to do to this bike : Tires Piston/Bore. Shift shaft - original had the end broken off. No worry, the previous owner drilled a hole in what was left and was happy with that... Kick starter-original guy used a TL 125 unit that would have bent the brake pedal each time you kicked. Brake pedal- original had end broken off, owner used a big bolt for the toe part. Rear spokes - the rear wheel was missing 6 spokes, all inside and confined to about on fourth of the wheel. Needless to say it wobbled big time. Did my best truing the wheel, seems ok. Rear axle nut- original was one of those prototype round units you've read so much about. Took the vice grips of death and two men and a boy to loosen it. Shifter- guess he didn't like the stocker, so he bent it into what he wanted. I stopped counting at 4 bends... Airbox - oh yes, the great engineering feat- stock air filter was long gone. Did you know that you could take a piece of plastic pipe, drill some holes in it, and jam it into the carb throat? Yeah, you can. Just find some old over sized piece of foam and wrap it around the pipe and secure it with a rubber band. Doesn't matter if it is 12 sizes to big. Oh, did you know that the other end of the pipe could be left open without worrying about covering it with foam? Sure can. See first entry above.... I found the original items. Hard to find that retaining clip. Cam chain was shot, so were the guides. Sprockets were fine. Went ahead and used new valves and seals in the head. The stock shocks were ok, but I went ahead and used some slightly longer Arnaco's that I found NOS for under 60 bucks. They look good and work fine. Seeing as how the battery was long gone, I used a battery eliminator. Lights work better at low RPM's. Clutch plates were pretty slick.... new ones installed. The previous owner told me the reason he was selling it was because he was having trouble keeping up with his pals XR 650's..... I used a front brake arm off off a 79 CR 250 Honda on the rear for more leverage. Looks trick and works. New front brakes. Rear to follow. I ureplaced the grips and levers with stock items and black Scott Grips. Still need to pick up a new clutch cable. I found an extra tank and side plates that I plan to tinker with this winter. I really like the looks of the TLR's overseas. We'll see. All in all, a ton of work and a lot of money, but at least I know what I have now. I'll see about getting a pic soon. Thanks to all that have helped. Thanks to Brian R. in Tennessee for the thicker base gasket. (The Wiseco was a 10.5 to 1, stock 9.5 to 1. ) Coming soon: The story about my trip to Motorcycle Hell.... yes, it does exist! Right across the street from my sister......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddytires Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Your project sound alot like mine , i just finished. I also used a wiseco piston. At first it would knock and bog down at higher rpms. Resolved the problem by using 97 octane gas, installing a 100 main jet and placing a small washer under the carb needle to raise it. Now it runs perfect . I also had a problem of the kick start bending and breaking the brake pedal. What did you do to fix yours? Did you just weld on something? When i got the bike it was a rusty non running piece of junk, so i spent all summer rebuilding it. I fabricated a fiberglass seat piece and repaired the metal tank , stripped and painted everything, rebuilt the entire motor. A lot of work, but well worth it, as it so much fun to ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsonwash8 Posted November 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 Mine has the stock bolt on kick starter stopper. You still have the problem of the kicker hitting something at the bottom of the stroke, but it spaers the brake pedal from damage. You might try the old technique I use with my XT 500. Slowly kick the bike until you reach TDC, then gently push a bit more. You'll feel the piston begin to travel on the down stroke. From there it's pretty easy. Even with a 200cc bike I find kicking through the compression stroke difficult. That's what old age does to ya...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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