Zoom Lens

[slapshot 3]

Hi Don,

Great choices ...if you have a limitless budget.

Canon Lenses

10-22mm 3.5-4.5.....

[malibudon]

I can get 'em cheaper in the good ol' USA:

10-22mm f3.5-4.5.....$675

70-200mm f4......$514

24-70mm f2.8 USM.....$1130

70-200mm F2.8 USM....$1650

But, if you don't want to spend the money required to get that set of gear, there are two ways you can approach it.

You can buy a wide range zoom (or two) and use them for a while. After you discover which focal lengths you use the most (that info in stored digitally inside your image files), you can consider getting the expensive lens in that particular range.

Or, you can buy a set like above, but at smaller (numerically larger) maximum apertures. Then, as you replace the lens(es) you use most with a higher quality lens that will do a superior job of performing the task. And, of course, don't neglect the second-hand market. But, here's a tip: Buy Canons new and 3rd-party lenses new. The OEM lenses hold their value, so you might as well go new. The 3rd party lenses take a bike dive on the used market, so take advantage of that.

I have a Nikon, but the concept is the same. I have a 80-200 f2.8 VR and it cost me about $1700. It was worth every single penny. A truly amazing lens. Once you use something like that, you never want to use a cheap lens again. I have a Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, but only because Nikon won't go as wide as 10mm.

[sherco 040]

Have you got any shots taken with the different lense to compare?

Thanks for all the info keep it coming.

[mattbradders]

Have you got any shots taken with the different lense to compare?

Thanks for all the info keep it coming.

I have a couple of galleries on Pbase, the first (Oak flats trial) was taken with 70-200 2.8L IS - I found it too long.

The second (Table Mesa trial) was with my 24-70 2.8L I think this is the better lens for trials because there isn't really any restriction on getting close to the riders (for local club trials)

I would like to try my 50 1.4 next time though, small and light, fast with great DOF - We'll see.

Both with a 30D body.

http://www.pbase.com/mattbradders/oak_flat...;view=slideshow

http://www.pbase.com/mattbradders/table_me...;view=slideshow

Matt

[sherco 040]

Thanks for the comprasion pics .Can you send some of your sunny weather to cold England.

Lens now sorted .Next topic fill in flash do you use it at all if so what model ?

[mattbradders]

Thanks for the comprasion pics .Can you send some of your sunny weather to cold England.

Lens now sorted .Next topic fill in flash do you use it at all if so what model ?

I'll throw some of that sunny weather in my case, (I'm coming home to the UK for crimbo) but wouldn't you rather have a white Christmas?

I'd like to use a little fill flash, the strong sun (sorry, don't mean to rub it in) here in Arizona sometimes causes faces to be underexposed if the sun is behind the subject. I wouldn't use it though because I don't want to disract the riders.

I have the canon 550 which when used in manual mode works great, like I said, I haven't used it at a trial yet.

So which lens did you go for?

Matt

[malibudon]

Next topic fill in flash do you use it at all if so what model ?

I believe fill flash is crucial, for two reasons:

1. It allows you to freeze the action, while still getting good background motion blur. This requires the photographer to perfect his panning skills. You can't hold the camera still, wait for the rider to enter the photo and then trip the shutter. When you do that, you get a perfectly sharp background and a blurred rider, exactly the opposite of what you want.

2. It allows you to shoot into the sun without the nasty shadows that result, especially in the rider's face.