johnnyboxer Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 (edited) Just bought a good example but a few questions about my first foray into fourstrokes (good bit of assimile) after a 315 Mont Tickover seems low - I know 1800rpm is recommended but this one I would guess is about 12-13rpm and wants to stall. Seems like standard gearing on 10/41 - whats the best 10/43 or 10/44 (guess they turned the tickover down instead of correcting the gearing) Exhaust seems loud and has no rear end cap, so that'll be the reason I guess. Is the end cap necessary and if so, how much are they It's got the 315 clutch on it and wide pegs, so is pretty ok and hasn't suffered any rock damage So i'm going to do the fluids and lube her up and see how she goes Best mods and trick bits for a 4RT - what's good and what's a waste of money?? Edited December 6, 2006 by Johnnyboxer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixie Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 good move buying the monty talon do a 9 tooth front sprocket, fit it and leave the standard rear. i use putoline lube they do a straight 75 weight,it works fine for me and its half the price of motul, as for the end cap put it back in,it will stop the noise and seems to soften the power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 How much was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 The end cap isn't much but I can't remember the exact cost. I lost 2 in the SSDT last year and Sandifords had them with them so I was able to replace it each time. I remember that I was relieved it wasn't a stupid price as some parts like that often can be. Takes the crack out of the exhaust. I have all my restrictors in apart from the top hat in the exhaust port as I was told it smoothed the engine out. My opinion - no difference whatsoever with it in ot out. I run my tickover lower than standard as I really really really hate the high setting. No idea what it is set at but trial and error got it to where it isn't low enough to cause starting or stalling problems. Still much too fast though. Wish they could sort it. Gearing is purely personal choice on any bike so difficult to recommend really. Programmable throttle body is worthwhile as it has enabled me to soften off the power delivery from tickover which is much too sharp for me in nadgery, meaning clutch has to be used too often, particularly with the tickover being too high. You can create your own maps but good luck in trying to work out how to do it as the HRC instructions that come with it are useless in terms of making your own maps. I can't make head nor tail of it. I can email you a couple of soft settings that were sent to me but don't know what they're like as haven't had chance to put them in yet. They are for the single setting PTB, not the 2 stage one. I am still on the HRC soft setting which isn't soft enough for me. I fitted the Mitani front pipe, not for any performance improvement, just for the look as the original looks awful and like it is of a 1960s moped. I can't honestly say whether the front pipe makes any difference to the engine, if it does, not enough for me to notice. As I said though, bought it for the look, that's all. The PTB is what I wanted for the engine tuning. Keep an eye on the front sprocket as mine wore pretty quickly. Can't think of anything else right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 My bike has a 44 rear sprocket and it seems perfect. I have ridden one with a 9 on the front and it was too low for me. Use the recommended Elf oil in the tranny, it makes a diffrence. Please put the end cap in, they are annoying for other people to listen to without it. I really like my Mitani muffler, lighter, more power and it's quieter than the stock muffler that still has a end cap It costs a lot though. The 2 stage mappable EFI is well worth the money, if you don't like the power curve just change it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboxer Posted December 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 How much was it? Guess? Very tidy with no rock damage whatsoever, so clean even the grips show little wear & tear I doubt its done more than 20-30 hours mainly in woods/mud only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robarnold Posted December 6, 2006 Report Share Posted December 6, 2006 I was told that unless you want to be a world beater, leave all the exhaust restrictors in, but a PTB is worth the investment big time. I found starting to be a wee issue with my '06 model when I first changed from a gasser, i've turned my tickover pretty low so it can be a bit temperemental. First thing is when starting normally, don't touch the throttle, in fact, don't even put your hand on it, it can be very tempting. Second thing is that you don't need a quick action stab like on a two stroke, a rhythmical, slow, long stroke should start it every time. AFTER STALLING: something we had to dig around to find out about, but we got some gen off Sandiford's and it works a treat. After a stall, don't just kick it as normal, it's very likely to kick back. With the throttle wide open, turn the motor over once to reset the ignition to 'starting mode', then let go of everything and give it the pre-prescribed smooth, long kick. It should rumble into life every time. I made the grave error of kicking it repeatedly after a stall in a section (granted, I was pretty p****d with the five at the time), the motor kicked back so hard that it snapped a piece off the inside of the crankcase!! Luckily my old man is an aircraft engineer so managed to find a fix without buying a new set of crankcases!!! Took me a good few weeks to get used to mine after jumping off a 300 GG, was on the clutch way too much to start with, revving and dumping just isn't necessary on most things. A nice progressive wind on and off for everything, even when you need to build it up on the clutch is the way forward. Watch Dougie and Fuji, that's where I learnt a lot. The bike is a lot more planted than a GG too, if you're a big hopper and bopper, you may have to learn to temper it a bit. Fewer, but more deliberate lateral front and back movements seem to be the way to go. Hope that helps!! Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughesy Posted December 7, 2006 Report Share Posted December 7, 2006 AFTER STALLING: something we had to dig around to find out about, but we got some gen off Sandiford's and it works a treat. After a stall, don't just kick it as normal, it's very likely to kick back. With the throttle wide open, turn the motor over once to reset the ignition to 'starting mode', then let go of everything and give it the pre-prescribed smooth, long kick. It should rumble into life every time. I'll have to give that a try, I wasn't aware of the reset to starting mode. Right, I've bought V-mar rear linkage plates and front sprocket guard that saves the ignition cover in the event of a snapped chain. Both good quality items, the link plates definitely make a difference to the initial travel reducing sag and making the back end a lot easier to hop about. I got these direct from V-mar in the states and took advantage of the good rate and great service. Jitsie air filters are flame retardant apparently so you can bin the flame guard and they are a much better seal on the filter lid. Jitsie Fork guards are more dated in appearance ( carbon kevlar) than the delay ones but are thicker and would do a better job of protecting the fork IMHO . Jitsie snail cam adjusters however I wouldn't recommend! They are too soft and too thick! This means that the rear spindle nut is a few threads short of where it should be and they distort when you tighten the nut! The ptb is the No1 mod to do really, maybe worth going for the 2 map ptb now which has been mentioned before. Raptor titanium pegs are a quality bit of kit and are worth the money IMHO, I never thought I'd say that about a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixie Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 hughesy hi is that right about the air filters not needing the flame screen??? what difference does it make with the screen out????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughesy Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 (edited) is that right about the air filters not needing the flame screen??? I was told this by Sandifords, I've been using them in mine since I got it without any problems. what difference does it make with the screen out????? I'd be lying if I said I could detect a performance difference, the main reason I use one is that it gives a better seal using neoprene around the filter lid. It also means less fiddling trying to get that screen back onto the original filter. Edited December 8, 2006 by Hughesy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dixie Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 hughsey i am using jitsie filters aswell but with the screen,but its a pain to clean the screen aswell,the oil seems to harden off on the mesh,i will try them without the mesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 (edited) right i will try to remember all my mods 1. 2 stage ptb 2. 315 clutch master cylinder 3. v-mar top clamp and fat bars 4. v-mar rear suspension linkages 5. raptor hangers and foot rests 6. jitise snail cams 7. jitise air filter 8. front and middle exhaust restcitor out 9. 43t rear sprocket 10. carbon fork and swinging arm covers 11. v-mar chain guide (the one under swinging arm) 12. elf htx740 gearbox oil 13. jitise lever adjusters 14. grease nipple fitted to headstock 15. rubber flap fitted to bottom of front mudguard 16. made a mesh cover to go over the top of the air filter to stop big bits of crap getting in 17. v-mar rubber valve caps 18. stainless steel engine bolts 19. 06 rear plastics 20. rep tank breather 21. technosel down both sides of the frame (prevents boot rub) god if my wife sees this list she will kill me, the amount of money i have spent extra to how much the bike was to start off with. only one mod left to make better sump guard, the stock one is made from kit kat wrappers. interesting to hear a few of you dont use the flame basket with a jitise filter i was told to keep it in, but i dont know who by. so are sandifords saying run without the flame basket ? jsp Edited December 8, 2006 by jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 jsp, Your bike sounds a lot like mine The bike that I bought from Lewisport had the Jitsie filter and no flame gaurd. I don't even know what one looks like! As I was cleaning the Jitsie filter it occured to me that the filter is built inside out! All the motocross bike filters have the course foam on the outside to catch the big stuff and the fine foam on the inside for the little stuff, the Jitsie filter is the other way around, it goes threw the fine foam first and the course foam second. Anybody else think this is odd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Hi, I run a jitse filter on my sherco 2.9 - it has the corse side out and the yellow [fine] inside? i have seen pictures of one on a website and they all look like that.plus the red foam rim is on the bottom. Might sound stupid but - has it been turned inside out when someone has washed it?Pictures of one on Trialsbits website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 (edited) Yes, but a trials bike it sucks through the "inside" first and the corse outside is facing down the airboot. Edited December 8, 2006 by sirhc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.