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Majesty Electronic Ignition


frenchie
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I understand it is possible to up grade to electronic ignition. What is the general feeling with regards this mod ie. Price, avaliability and performance enhancement and above all reliability.

Also I have, I presume the standard flywheel weight, I would like a little more sharpness on the pick up .

Without discarding completely what is best considered weight or size.

Any help would be greatly recieved as recently traveled many many miles to a trial, only to fail at the first section with electric problems , was so peeved I nearly bought a Honda.......

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I was looking at convertng a TY175 to later model electronic, from the Dt, etc.

General feedback I got was that electronics of that early era were less reliable than the old magneto points, that I should go to new design or stay with points.

Bob ginder has an electronic conversion developed by the vintage people in the US. Major reason was just what you had: long expensive trip then be out of it due to ignition problems.

As I recall the kit was approaching $500, out of my league for the 'buddy bike' TY175, but looked like a good way to go for improvement. Try BJracing.com

kcj

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don`t buy a honda mate - things can`t be that bad !!

I have an electronic from craig mawlam on my maj.

early days yet,but the easy fitment and easy adjustability

make it a winner with me,i have made 3 marks on the backplate

advanced,compromise and retarded,the difference is very

noticable.it gives us fools another excuse for poor riding,had the ignition

set wrong,would have won if not for that etc etc.

someone on here must have craigs number.i`ve lost it.

i think it was about

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I've also got the aftermarket/modern electronic conversion fitted to my Majesty. Main reason for fitting it was to dispense with the hassle of maintaining a points/condensor set up and for reliability.

Can't say there is any noticeable increase in performance from a better spark or whatever but I didn't expect it anyway and that wasn't the reason for fitting it. As per the previous post though, it does give far more variation to timing set up than the points so it is easier to alter the response of the engine for a softer or sharper pick up. Definitely a noticeable difference there.

You don't say where you are so if you're outside the UK I don't know where you would get this kit from which comprises the backplate, source coil and replacement CDI HT coil. It uses the standard flywheel. In the UK it is Craig Mawlam that was supplying them but I no longer have his contact details either. If you can get hold of Jon Bliss he will have them.

Alternatively, a TY Mono staor will fit straight on and can be used with the existing Majesty flywheel, along with the mono CDI and HT coil. You just need to work out the timing point to get it fired up and then experiment with settings. I think you have to elongate the slots in the mono backplate to get the correct timing point but can't remember.

As regards flywheel weight you don't say if your bike is 250 or 320. If it is a 250 take the weight off altogether and try it. A lot of 250 Majesties seem to have pretty much standard motors which are quite flat and removing the weight livens them up a bit. If it is a 320 just advancing the timing should make it sharp enough with the weight fitted.

The price of the aftermarket kit is about

Edited by Woody
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Thanks for the info, its a 320 and it was in fact the condenser that let me down. Its now a confidence thing and if I only gain reliability I would be happy, It does seem though, a positive step. I understand there is a source in England producing them but a few niggles are yet to ironed out. I may try Craig Mawlam as I met him at a trial in France in September.

Will ponder, leave the flywheel in situ and wait till they become avaliable.

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If it's condensor failures, heres another option that may or may not apply.

I had Yam RD350 that I converted to automotive ignition coils, mounted under front of tank on the frame downtubes. I also used standard automotive condensors mounted there instead of in the cases. The original reason for the conversion was to get more spark energy to fire plugs so it didn't eat plugs every 1000 miles. (days before synthetic oil and fine tipped spark plugs). In that repsect it worked wonderfully. Started easy, ran on plugs forever.

Advantages: cheap condensors (then, might be rare now) made in volume so they were reliable. much cooler operation out of the engine, heat is the major killer of electrical stuff. Also, auto condensors were physicallyt larger and more durable for the same electrical characteristics, and mounting outside gave room to use those larger condensors.

disadvantages: long ways from points. Capacitor is there to absorb the induced voltage and stop arcing across the points when they open, ideally should be as close as possible.

I have no idea if this would help in your situation, might be worth a try.

Personally, I'd probably go the electronic kit route.

k

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