terry Posted March 23, 2004 Report Share Posted March 23, 2004 (edited) Been having a little trouble shifting into first gear on my '74 TY250. Seems that I have to push down hard on the shifter to get it into first gear. It upshifts OK, not great, but it's the down shifting back into first that is the big problem. I noticed in the manual that there is an adjustment set screw on the clutch side where the shift shaft comes through the case and operates a little cog that aparently moves the shift forks. It didn't really tell what it adjusted or how to do it. Does this adjust the way the shift forks engage or the shift drum or something? Could my shifting problems be as simple as this needing adjustment? Any help appreciated. The gears don't grind and there is no clunking around in the cases like something is broken, it just seems that the shift fork that engages first gear is not moving enough for positive engagement. Edited March 23, 2004 by Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky Posted March 23, 2004 Report Share Posted March 23, 2004 Had the same problem on a ty 175. It was the fork not going far enough to turn the selector drum. the gears would hook up alright but it wouldnt push it far enough to go into first. Adjust the fork as described in the manual and it should solve the problem it did mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted March 25, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2004 I got the cover off last night and couldn't seem to get it much better. Do I have to pull the clutch basket off to adjust it proberly or can I just go in increments and see what happens? The adjustment screw seems to be a cam or something and as the plate moves left at a point it stops and then starts moving back right. I don't really know what I'm looking for while adjusting. The book says to adjust until the forks are equal distant at the shift drum but like I said, I must have to pull the clutch basket. Any help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29r Posted March 26, 2004 Report Share Posted March 26, 2004 Yep , Yer on the right track . It's been a while ( long while ), but what yer looking for is equal distance between the actualator finger gizzies and the shift drum pins . Seems like something to look for is that the pins/drum is not cracked ? Anyway, they should be equal , you might lean towards increasing the downside ( on the shifter ) if you feel like experimenting . Another possibility is that you have a bent shift fork which is possible but ... What kind of oil are you running and have you adjusted the clutch ? Maybe the clutch is toast ? I dunno . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted March 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2004 I've been running the Motul two stroke gear oil for about two years. I did adjust the clutch about two weeks ago when I replaced the clutch cable. I guess I will go on and pull the clutch out so I can adjust the shifter and check the clutch plates while I am at it. It might be that it is in need of replacement. Should I get a clutch holder tool to remove the clutch basket or is it really necessary? Sounds like a good question for Charlie Chitlins. This "over the winter" rebuild is sure dragging on but this is the last thing left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin j Posted March 27, 2004 Report Share Posted March 27, 2004 the tool is really handy, and saves risking gear teeth or basket parts. pic of a homemade one is attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted April 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 Thanks for the picture Kevin. Made me a pair last week and worked perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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