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Ossa Clutch Actuating Plunger


vaughan
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Hi can anyone point me in the direction of a Supplier of an Ossa, "Clutch Actuating Plunger" for an Ossa TL 350 i am restoring.

Im located in Durham England.

Cheers,

P.S. I have a little web site to record my efforts, please take a look and if you have any advice or comments they will be appreciated. OSSA-restoration.piczo.com

Vaughan.

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For the clutch actuator, it's very unlikely you'll source a new one (but you never know) For used, try the usual suppliers, Ellastone Offroad, A& B Autos, Mainly Spanish or Sammy Miller.

Bike looked a real good buy for

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Looks like you got a bargain. Had a look at your web-site, keep posting the updates.

You might like to try PJ1 paint for the exhaust, it doesnt require to be baked on as some high temp paints do and gives a nice satin black finish which is very close to the original finishes of the time. I experimented with a few different paints for the exhaust of my 340 Bultaco and this gave the best finish by far. About

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Hi Vaughan Just looked at your web page,looks good! the seat you orderd from bultaco uk some come with the side strips some dont its how and when dave can get them (youll have to ask for them specially?)

yes youll proberly scratch the frame to bits geting the engine back in as there very tight and theres a certain side they drop in! i think its in from the right side (standing above the bike) double wrap all around the frame tubes with masking tape or youll scratch it up big time i know this from experiance!!!

good luck and keep us posted. Nick :chairfall:

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Thanks for the advice everyone, it's my first attempt at restoration and its got me hooked iv'e already got a TY 250 1978 to start on next.

It's great to see a nice condition Twinshock being ridden, my Lad Scott would like to ride ours when it's done but he is only 16 and the rules nowadays wont let him.

Cheers,

Vaughan.

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your just up the road from me,ime in middlesbrough,ive got a 70&74 model to get stuck into onece ive completed my 348 monty :chairfall:

Hi mk1, hope you dont mind if i pick your brains now and again, this is the first trials bike i have restored, Do you attend any of Weardale, Consett, trials.

Cheers, Vaughan.

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yes youll proberly scratch the frame to bits geting the engine back in as there very tight and theres a certain side they drop in! i think its in from the right side (standing above the bike) double wrap all around the frame tubes with masking tape or youll scratch it up big time i know this from experiance!!!

good luck and keep us posted. Nick :chairfall:

I've never managed to get an engine in or out with the barrell fitted. Easiest way is to have the bike as a rolling chassis and without the barrell fitted fit the engine in the frame from underneath, rear bottom mounting first. Note that the barrell won't fit over its studs once the engine is mounted in the frame on all it's mounting points. To fit the barrell you can either;

- remove the front 2 studs, fit the barrell over the piston and then refit the studs and then head

or

- just hold the engine in the frame on the bottom rear bolt which allows it to tip forward. There is then enough clearance to fit the barrell without removing the studs. Once the barrell is on, the engine can be tipped back upright into its normal position and the head fitted.

Unless anyone knows of an easier way, especially removing the engine without having to remove the barrell.

Edited by Woody
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your just up the road from me,ime in middlesbrough,ive got a 70&74 model to get stuck into onece ive completed my 348 monty :chairfall:

Hi mk1, hope you dont mind if i pick your brains now and again, this is the first trials bike i have restored, Do you attend any of Weardale, Consett, trials.

Cheers, Vaughan.

hi,ive not had a trialer for over 4 years now apart from my stricken section,then I end up with 2 ossas(70-74 models I believe)72 250 bultaco and a 348 monty,ime on with the monty now and hope to do a twinshock trial next year which will be my 1st so something easy to start with,one of my ossas is a basket case all in boxs so that will be the next one to be rebuilt so fire away with questions if you get stuck and ile try and help you out :bouncy:

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yes woody your correct , the top end must be removed before the engine can be refitted! next time im going to install the piston part way in the barrel then connect to the conrod as im sliding it over the studs instead of the usual way as its so bloody tight for space. the second option you mentioned is the way i'd go everytime its easy for studs to shear off after being stuck in for so long! :chairfall:

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