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05 Raga Problems


spud
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Base and Clutch gaskets are both blown.

I think the engine breather is blocked and I was thinking about using an air line (when the clutch case is off) to blow the breather through. Both gaskets have gone together, this is why i think its the engine breather?

I'm ordering new: Base, Head, Exhaust, Clutch gaskets have I missed any?.....and how much should these cost.

PS: i'm no mechanic...... and just been looking at the engine, is there an engine breather?

Edited by spud
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Good luck sorting that out Spud, did you get water in the bike or something?

Didn't think about water in the engine because the gear box oil is clear. However i have been in a few stream's and the bike is jet washed regularly. If there is water in the engine is this easy to sort?

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Good luck sorting that out Spud, did you get water in the bike or something?

Didn't think about water in the engine because the gear box oil is clear. However i have been in a few stream's and the bike is jet washed regularly. If there is water in the engine is this easy to sort?

Spud, if your gear box oil is clear then i would'nt have thought there is water in the system and because the oil lubricates main bearing, you would hear bearing running rough.

As for gaskets, had both go on a 05. I'v fitted a new clutch case gasket and it still leaked! Just make sure you don't overfill oil. Book says 550ml, it's wrong! 450ml is more than enough.

Gasgas make three different thickness of base gaskets, fit the thickest one.

Edited by markygas
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Good luck sorting that out Spud, did you get water in the bike or something?

Didn't think about water in the engine because the gear box oil is clear. However i have been in a few stream's and the bike is jet washed regularly. If there is water in the engine is this easy to sort?

Spud, if your gear box oil is clear then i would'nt have thought there is water in the system and because the oil lubricates main bearing, you would hear bearing running rough.

As for gaskets, had both go on a 05. I'v fitted a new clutch case gasket and it still leaked! Just make sure you don't overfill oil. Book says 550ml, it's wrong! 450ml is more than enough.

Gasgas make three different thickness of base gaskets, fit the thickest one.

Didn't think it was water i'm very aware and on the ball to stop this sort of thing from power washing and checking the air box after/during a trial.

I've been filling the gear box with 550ml, will drop that by 100ml. The base gaskets, is there part numbers for the different thickness? I've also noticed the exhaust gasket has gone this evening..... and bearing in mind the rear shock's fixing bolt was loose along with the kick start and a whole host of other bits, the chances are the clutch gasket going is down to an over fill of oil and loose bolts, as i've just put and alankey on them and one finger tightened them very easily.

Spoke with me bruv (mechanic mad) he said when we rode last week he thought he see a small black area near the base gasket where it might have started to blow,b ut the was bike was running fine and so he didn't say anything.

I think i'll chance the gaskets and see what happens. As for the breather being blocked i may have this wrong. Has anyone got the torque setting for my bike?

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Hey Spud

Deal with the engine gearbox as 2 seperate compartments.

The gearbox is vented by a 4mm plastic tube on LHS case up near the rear of the fuel tap. Is it blocked?

I deliberatly overfill my gearbox & it vents oil out of here to the level it wants.

The engine is not vented as it is a 2 stroke & relies on primary compression which has oozed from your base gasket (black mark)

Water in the engine is usually from a blocked airbox drain. take the airfiletr out & have a look in the bottom.

Try tightening the base gasket bolts before you go for a complete strip.

If you do strip use the same thickness as fitted. The bike was running fine before right!?

Changing the base thickness will vary the exhaust port timing !!!!

Leaking exhaust, just torque the bolts up after lubricating them.

For a waterlogged engine take the sparkplug out & turn the bike upside down. Yes really, been there done that.

I will be riding at monkins farm if you want to chat, I was a bike mechanic before I found a job that paid properly.

Cheers

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Hey Spud

Deal with the engine gearbox as 2 seperate compartments.

The gearbox is vented by a 4mm plastic tube on LHS case up near the rear of the fuel tap. Is it blocked?

I deliberatly overfill my gearbox & it vents oil out of here to the level it wants.

The engine is not vented as it is a 2 stroke & relies on primary compression which has oozed from your base gasket (black mark)

Water in the engine is usually from a blocked airbox drain. take the airfiletr out & have a look in the bottom.

Try tightening the base gasket bolts before you go for a complete strip.

If you do strip use the same thickness as fitted. The bike was running fine before right!?

Changing the base thickness will vary the exhaust port timing !!!!

Leaking exhaust, just torque the bolts up after lubricating them.

For a waterlogged engine take the sparkplug out & turn the bike upside down. Yes really, been there done that.

I will be riding at monkins farm if you want to chat, I was a bike mechanic before I found a job that paid properly.

Cheers

I kicked the bike over again today because i had a couple of sherry's when i said it went, and yes the gasket has gone in a big way. The clutch gasket i'm going to buy new, but i pushed the old one back into position, so might be okay, will test it when the bike is up and running again. Interesting thought about how much engine oil to use. Had a thought about when the barrel is off to open up the ports :thumbup:...found the engine breather all is okay. There is definately no water in the engine. i'm also going to tweak the suspension to make it a little more hoppy and re-seat the front mudguard because the lower part is touching the front wheel,even though i've raised it. The throttle body i was going to try a different one to see if it helps more in the slippery conditions i'm finding even in 4th gear the rear wheel can spin quite easily.

thanks for the advise and tips

Edited by spud
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Updated....

Thanks to BVM's for the parts.

The bike was very easy to work on for a beginner like me. I wanted to torgue the barrel down but i couldn't fit a socket on barrels forward nuts. The clutch case is no longer leaking the repossitioning of the gasket has worked. The old base gasket came away in one piece, i was expecting a hole/split from the gasket at the point of leak but there was nothing apart from a mark where the gases were passing - the barrell was on very tight so i don't know why it leaked in the first place? The new base gasket is 0.8mm thick compared to 0.3mm, the old gasket. I've run the bike and let it heat up until the fan started working, all was good with no leaks and the bike was ticking over fine. Tomorrow i'll re-check the barrell nuts and cylinder head bolts for tightness. With the thicker base gasket i can't say i've noticed any performance difference, but the really test is when i'm in competition. The exhaust studs were loose, so this was the reason for the exhaust leak, i've replaced the exhaust gaske and the studs are tightened to about the same level as the barrel nuts. The cylinder head gasket is very weird (two rubber rings) never seen anything like this before.

I run the bike on a 50/1 petrol to oil mix, the piston had a small amount of carbon and was looking in very good condition. The rings were very good with no scoring, as too the barrel. The exhaust manifold was a little oily but nothing a rag couldn't wipe clean. So all in all the bike is in good condition and its 18months old and has been ridden nearly ever weekend in that 18months.

Suspension i've tweaked, don't ask what setting for preload etc... i just increased everything and the bike is a lot more hoppy :bouncy: . Front mudguard is done, a little bit of gentle force can work wonders.

The job took me just under 2 hours to do and everything came off and went back without any problems.

Total cost of this repair was

Edited by spud
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