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Building A Cub Front End


oranagamcs
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I understand that the guy that has taken over intends to carry on with the same stuff that Martyn did but he is more interested in road than trials cubs. I am sure that between him and Alan Whitton, everything will still be available.

Here are some pictures of the front end of my cub. AW yolks and hubs along with Norton Roadholders with Betor internals - all done by AW>

Dave

DSC00024.jpgDSC00040.jpg

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I contacted dave varley and was quoted 175 pounds for the fork conversion and 175 pounds for the marzocchi internals. This seems reasonable and I assume he does quality work. Am I assuming correctly. Also does anyone know how the VAT works for export to other countries. I need to figure it out because it adds a considerable expense to the conversion.

Also how long does it take Miller to get parts out or email conformation. I am assuming I am not going to get an email but its been 2.5 weeks since I ordered my parts.

Thanks for the help everyone

Also anyone have a email address or contact # for Allan Whitton?

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that front end especially the yolks and bar clamps is almost identical to mine that i had

made via Dave Varley except that i had mine in black for that P65 look.

i've been a customer of dave varleys on a number of occasions, i've bought bikes and

parts from him and all the work is of the highest quality and good value he has an excellent

reputation for his triumph twins

PS to ride your cub in the Yorkshire Classic Championship you'd have to get some fork gaiters,

otherwise although you'd be more than welcome to ride you'd not be able to score championship points.

Edited by totalshell
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I noticed some of the bikes in the photos on your site dont have gaiters fitted. wondered why suppose they dont get points then?

Question and i have a feeling i'm going to regret asking this at some point but why do the forks have to have gaiters, yes i know it says so in the rules and regs, when you know that they are "modified" anyway?

IMHO they look orrible and offer no effect on performance negative or positive. So why???? :unsure:

DaveD444 whose fork stays are they? look just like what i am looking for :beer:

Edited by Old trials fanatic
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its been a rule that has been in place for several years that all forks must have gaiters. I guess that

the real reason is to maintain a period look. if you check out the clubs rules

http://yorksclassictrials.co.uk/club_rules.htm

they are fairly clear and to be honest resonably tight, and yet relaxed at the same time. the main emphasis

is on enjoying british bikes and classic type trials sections, sure a number of bikes on every trial do not

conform to every rule and they are asked to ride as 'non competeative specials'

as can be seen from the results sheets for the latest championship trial several riders rode in this class.

http://yorksclassictrials.co.uk/results/Re...kes07-01-07.xls

:beer: the smile is from my 4 year old daughter who is waiting patiently for her goodnight story!!

Edited by totalshell
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In response to the various questions and comments;

The whole front end was done by Alan Whitton (Tel No 01246 419805) i know that there are a number of people who do forks, yolks and other bits out there but I think Alan's stuff is by far the best quality engineering.

On the question of fork gaiters, I generally ride either BMCA or Red Rose but had planned to do some Yorks events so it's worth knowing. It can get quite confusing though, as the North of England generally allow Del Orto carbs on cubs but BMCA do not, Yorks want to see gaiters but Red rose and BMCA seem ok with no gaiters. I wish that they would all agree one set of rules.

I suppose that if you just make it Scottich compliant then it will generally be OK everywhere.

I am not a pot hunter though and just want to ride challenging trials and have a bit of fun on a Sunday so the specials or non championship class is no real problem. Honestly though, gaiters should be a small worry for most organisers when you look at some of the mcdonald cubs or 'special' arials that you see around.

We need to have a reality check though and realise that if the top 10% of the entry changed bikes on any given sunday there would be little difference in the results so the bike might not make that much of a difference anyway. I reckon Thorpey would still win on a standard 200cc cub - wouldn't he????

Dave

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Your dead right dave, great riders can do well on any bike, average riders can do well on great bikes, poor riders can get by on great bikes ,

when researching a piece for the club newsletter ( I'm only just pre 65 myself and have to rely on others for information) I came across an articale from feb 65 describing a cub that finished 3rd overall on the welsh experts the previous year the modifications listed promted the question ''how competative would the bike be today?''

http://hometown.aol.co.uk/totalshell/myhom...newsletter.html (The item is at the very very bottom of the page..)

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Perhaps that just proves the point that a good rider will do well on any bike, though it sound as though that bike wasn't far off a standard trim road bike..... maybe that wouldn't get a result in a national level trial, no matter who was riding it???

Saying that, I have been to some trials and seen guys out on very original looking rigid bikes riding the hard route and low and behold, when the results come out there are a whole host of riders on 'enhanced' classic bikes on a lot more marks.

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The parts I ordered came from Sammy Miller today. I cant complain, he/they charged me less than I thought I was going to spend, there is a note saying that he set me up at dealer pricing for America. I also got a few more parts than I thought I remebered ordering.

The last major parts for me to aquire for the chassis is a front end and wheels. The rest is a engine rebuild and assorted control parts. I got a email from Dave Varley and have decided to contact Allan Whitton as well to compare work and prices on the front end. Next question is what wheels/rims are recommended? Anybody have any suggestions? Are alloy allowed for the pre 65 type bikes? Although we dont really have a pre-65 division around my area I would like to continue on with that theme. So who to buy from, sizes, maufacture, and materials. At least if I get the info here I will know what to get even if I source it in America, although the thought of getting exactly what I want from the UK for more money in shipping does not bother me at all.

One more ? which bars to buy? I imagine Renthal, but I am not sure of which rise to order. I am 6"4" tall. Can someone give a recommendation?

Thanks for everyones help thus far. Ill post some pics when I get to assembling the bike.

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Glad you got your parts and are happy.

Alloy rims are fine no problem. Me i always go for Morad which are current copies of the old Akront ones that used to be used on Bultaco, Ossa, Montesa etc. Central Wheel in Birmingham are the main distributor for the UK i think dont know about the US.

As for bars they are bery much a personal thing. I like the Renthals and use 5.5" lift ones but i'm only 5'10" tall. Think the highest lift they do is 6" so if they are not to your liking then you will have to make some spacers to put under the bars to lift them more. As a "suck it and see" solution then try some top bar clamps turned upside down under the bars and use longer through bolts.

Good Luck :D

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Who makes the aluminum cub hubs Sammy Miller is selling now? I know you guys said he sources parts from abunch of people and if you buy direct from them than you can save some $$. Im going to get a few pics up here of my cub as soon as I get my race bike a little further along, season starts in 7 weeks and I need to test it a bit.

Thanks

Matt

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I just sign my salary over to him every month :banana2:

Talking to him the other night he told me of someone who called round and they had tried to do the fork mod themselves. Unfortunately it went all a bit "Pete Tong". The sliders were scrap but at least Alan managed to find him a pair of spare ones but the guy now needs to get some more outers and save up to get the job done properly.

It's not as easy as it looks. Yes it is expensive but the difference is well worth it along with the knowledge that it's been done right.

Experience costs.

Moral is if unsure dont even try it. Oh and dont try to freeze the inner and warm the outer then along with loctite try to put them together :D

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