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Which camera?


nigel dabster
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Terry, come by the house, we can do that TY exhaust, and let me show you a couple of digital camera's.

There is a noticable delay, particularly on the less expensive cameras, between when you push the button and when the picture snaps.

If you are taking "still" photo's, no big deal, but when you are trying to shoot Trials, you end up mistiming a bunch and you get a very nice picture of the rock the guy just rode over or his front fender or something.

Another consideration is "write time" or how long it takes to put the picture on to the media. again cheaper will usually take longer, ie this may mean that you can only get one shot of the guy in the section instead of several.

I am blathering on, but it will be real apparent what we are saying if you come out with us and we will bring out two or three and let you play with them before plunking down the money.

It is better, IMO, to spend more money off the bat, than to come up short and be unhappy.

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Funny, that's what the man said when we bought our first "new" car. Then I learned what being upside down was all about. I would like to check the cameras out. I have an extra TY pipe on the way to play with so I'll get with you when it gets here.

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I have an four year old Fujifilm MX-1200 @ 1.3M pixel. It just great for standard stuff or even action when there is plenty of light but reduce the light and it becomes awful. I used to be a pretty serious SLR man and am interested in a camera that will take my Pentax K mount lens. Does anyone know of a good one that not to expensive?

Also to those of you who have fancy digitals is the poor light and fast action issues still a concern or is that sorted now.

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Its pretty good, but as Andy says you need to pre-focus by half pressing the shutter. So its about planning your shot a little.

I'll try to figure out how to send you a few pics I have taken at trials and you'll see that they are pretty 'active' - I can't work out how to reduce the size as they were all taken in High Res. I'm not smart enough to post them here.

I use the view finder and not the LCD display, and hold it traditionally and not in mid air. Use to use a 'monopod' when I was into rallying, which is excellent if you want to eliminate any shake.

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Also to those of you who have fancy digitals is the poor light and fast action issues still a concern or is that sorted now.

I am definetely a neophyte when it comes to these camera's but I believe some problems are just problems, and will be no matter how the picture is taken.

The biggest problem we have is when you are shooting in the "woods" with tree cover, and light coming down like "shafts". It also never seems to fail that the first great shot you want in the section is in a bright shaft of light, then the second shot is down in the shadows.

I think it is difficult at best for any camera to adjust / adapt to that, add to that factor that the exciting parts usually happen quite fast and it just makes a difficult combination.

The absoulute best thing about digital, and why we have a $1000 camera, is the # of shots that you can take for "Free". I belive that one of the biggest reasons that "professional" photographers get so many good shots, is they take so many more than you or I do. With Digital, you can be right there with them.

At a local event Hanna will shoot about 500 shots. I could never afford to have that many shots developed, and really, who would want too, but there will be 20 really good shots in there. The light was right, the setting was right, the rider did well and it all happened at exactly the right moment.

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What I do want to know is how do I set the camera to get the rider to come out in focus in a picture like this.

I'd have locked focus where I've put the arrow - just in front of the face of that ridge at the back of the rock PRIOR to the rider even reaching the obstacle - then just let the rider move into frame and pop. Good action shot. Good lighting so nice fast shutter speed. It's just a question of getting the focus locked on and the best way to do that is with an inanimate object (and if Marky isn't around, use a rock!) :rolleyes:

post-20-1069974881.jpg

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I've found if you just wander round snapping then you get lousy shots. I've gradually learned to plan where to place myself and definitely, the most important thing with digital is to get the focus sorted and locked before pushing down all the way. Then you can do things like this (I just love this photo and show it off at every opportunity!):

post-20-1069975316.jpg

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When seen at full size everything is in focus except the rider.

I've found that pre focusing on rocks doesn't work that well with the A40.

(my Scott photo's prove this, if you go some of the revue sites it's a know problem with A40's)

This photo was pre focused by someone standing on the rock before the rider got there.

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Try manual focus then. I was happy with the autofocus on my G2 till I decided to start learning more about what it could do and played about with the manual focus. It makes a world of difference once you get used to it:

post-20-1069975628.jpg

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