scoobie Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hi, Decided to service the above as it's been stood for a couple of months. Regreased all the bearings, dog bones etc, no-problem. However, I stupidly decided to remove the carb and clean it out as well as to check and top-up the coolant - what a mistake!!!! Now can't get the airbox onto the back of the carb - is that black plastic surround that fits onto the front of the airbox necessary? When I replaced the throttle slide it works fine, but I can hear the spring scrunching-up inside - is there a way that the spring fit's inside? Also, cannot get the top back on the rad - there's just no-room. Do I need to drop the rad somehow or remove the wiring etc above? Any advice appreciated as I've been at it for over 4 hours today with no-joy. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hi, re-fitting the airbox on my 05 290 is very easy - that plastic shroud peice you mention dosnt get in the way so i keep it on, might help to keep some **** out of airbox? When you put the carb back on, put the rubber inlet on to the carb - not on the box -tighten it up - you might want to round off the edges [ like when fitting OSMA piping ] -lightly oil the airbox stub and gently push.I found i had to enlarge one of the two holes on the bracket that holds the rear of the airbox as they were slightly out of line with the brass insets. Does the slide snap shut nicely? The radiator cap IS a nightmare! I managed to get mine on by pushing it forward with one finger and turning it using a screwdriver on the grooves on the cap, it can be done beleive me but it is VERY fiddly. Best of luck Ryan Youngs website is excellent for tips -Sherco USA i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoholic Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 If you are removing the airbox and carb for service then try loosening the clamp on the intake/reed valve manifold, and then pull the airbox and carb out as a complete unit. (Having already removed the top off the carb and slide, and wrapped for protection, and having covered open carb body with ziplock bag and rubber band) Once on the bench you can then mark the clamps and hose between the carb and airbox so as to ensure proper alignment when reassembling. Reverse the procedure and put the carb and airbox together as one unit back on the engine. The forward outlet of the carb should slide easily into the intake manifold, then lift up underneath the airbox to align the air box mounting screws. Take care not to cross thread those screws as you are working against the pressure of the airbox to muffler rubber seal. Temporary removal of the airbox top spring retainer also helps with the alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gii Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 A bit of grease on the carb and air box stubs and inside the rubber pipes makes a huge difference. If you're going to put the carb and airbox back in as a unit, be careful not to damage the rear brake fluid reservoir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobie Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) Many thanks for that. Did as everyone suggested and accomplished the task no-problem. Now having major problems withe the rear wheel!!! It was leaking at the valve when I bought the bike, and seeing as I havn't got a compressor I decided to put a tube in. I drilled out the rim and put in two rimlocks, then tried to fit the tyre with a tube. So far I have destroyed 3 tubes and two tyres. I cannot work out where I'm going wrong. I use a mouse board, have good quality levers, etc etc. I've been changing tyres and mousses on my enduro bikes for years, but this has me stumped. I cannot get the last couple of inches of tyre in without damaging the tyre and the tube. I've even tried using my bead buddies, but the tyre just snaps them out. I got the tyres with the bike and they are 'tubeless'. Is it because they are tubeless and I need to buy 'tubed' tyres? I thought you could put a tube in a tubless tyre? Any help appreciated as this is getting far too expensive. Edited January 30, 2007 by Scoobie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perce Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 (edited) It's going to get more expensive because you've f****d a perfectly good wheel. Did you not consider asking BEFORE you trashed it? A compressor would have been a far cheaper option than the one you've taken for a start. You can put tube in a tubeless no problem but you have to still blow the tyre up onto beads using either a compressor at home or simply going to a garage forecourt. I doubt very much if it'll slip round the rim, if it does just kick the tyre off the bead & start again. Drilling holes & fitting rimlocks has basically trashed it, although I suppose it'll still run OK with a tube in & with the tyre blown onto the beads. Ditch the rimlocks. Never fit a tube type tyre onto a tubeless rim, tube inside it or not, it'll fall off the rim everytime. Just ask all those lad's who've been sold one by mistake, they always drop off in the crappiest spot & as far away from the car as possible. Always, always check the tyre you've been sold is a tubeless type. Edited January 30, 2007 by PERCE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobie Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Hi, Thanks for the feedback. The reason I went down the tube option was because I kept getting air leaks from spokes/valve even after trying all the methods listed on the site, that and the pain in the a**e of the hours travel time to the nearest garage, and trying to 'hold' the wheel onto the rim while I inflated it. The little compressor I have that plugs into the car is powerful enough to inflate a tube etc, but wouldn't make any headway on the tubeless. Also I can - usually - get a wheel off a bike, remove the tube and replace, and get it back on again in 20 minutes, so if I was out on the bike and had a puncture the quickest and easiest option was to put a tube in - I couldn't see how I could sort out a tubless out in 'the field' if it began to leak from the spokes/valve again. I checked the other posts on the site and people advised if you were having trouble to 'put a tube' in it. I just assumed from my experience with enduro bikes that you would need rimlocks (and that's what the guy at the dealers advised as well!!!). I'll remove the rimlocks and try it without. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perce Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 The tyre still has to 'pop' onto the rim whether there's a tube in there or not, if it doesn't it will simply fall off everytime you use it. I doubt very much if a plug in car pump will have enough whizz to get a tyre up onto the rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinell Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Never fit a tube type tyre onto a tubeless rim, tube inside it or not, it'll fall off the rim everytime. Just ask all those lad's who've been sold one by mistake, they always drop off in the crappiest spot & as far away from the car as possible. Always, always check the tyre you've been sold is a tubeless type. Like Sharpy's did at the SSDT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkrgi Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 (edited) If your tire/tyre leaks Slime it http://www.slime.com/ Works VERY well on tubeless tyres...seals up those nasty little leaks. Edited January 31, 2007 by bkrgi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 (edited) I do feel for you Scoobie, but although "Our Perce" may say it in the no bullsh*t Yorkshire way :-), it is a shame to mess up a decent rim. Most of us with bikes over a year old have had the same problems with leaking spokes, but it really is worth the effort following the advice on here and getting the rim tape back in the groove. I really don't believe you can effectively seal the spokes, you have to get a new rim tape, clean up the rim, and get it back in and seated. As an emergency (stuck without a new rim tape) I've used a tube with a tubeless tyre, and not needed security bolts (rim locks). My spare wheel had a tube in for a while (lazy) and was used a fair bit (even more lazy). The tube never slipped in the slightest, and I know what a problem that used to be for tubed tyres. Not sure what to say for the best now. Probably leave the security bolts in, and fit a tubeless tyre with the tube. I've nipped a tube on the odd occasion, but if you shove a wee bit of air in the tube before you put the last of the tyre on, I think it's easier. just use the bare minimum of tyre lever overlapping the rim for the last part. Not sure if I grasped what you were saying about fixing tubeless punctures, but I have NEVER had an occasion where spokes started to leak part way through a trial, it only seem sto happen when you disturb the rim tape. It normally takes about 3 or 4 minutes to fix a tubeless puncture if you're ready for it. The kits are around Edited January 31, 2007 by bikespace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seandellear Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 You can get a six bar compresser from B and Q for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobie Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Hi, Thanks for the response all. The wheel I 'messed' around with was a spare that was with the bike. On the bike is a brand new Morad with new tyre, bearings, disc and sprocket. The other spare I am going to use whilst I learn on the bike. I did follow all the advice on the site re: making sure the rim tape was on - I even heard a sight crack/snap as it went into place. In the morning it would be flat!!!. I think there may have been something amiss with it somewhere. Hence I decided to put a tube in. I've removed the rimlocks and put in old valves cut out from tubes - I needed these in the past to help seat a tyre when I 've used mousse's - so no water should get in. I'll have a look at the B and Q compressor thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 (edited) I decided to put a tube in. I drilled out the rim and put in two rimlocks, then tried to fit the tyre with a tube. Take the rim to a good ali welders and get the holes fixed up. There are always two big cracks/snaps/pops... not just one. You'll need a fast 50 to 80psi to do this. Also, check the thin line on the tyre wall is parallel to the rim outer edge, all the way round. But follow all these tips first:- http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9171 http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9049 (mainly at the end of the thread) Best of balance. Neo Edited February 1, 2007 by Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobie Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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