New Fender/ Decal Trouble?

[shercrazy]

i JUST PURCHASED AN 06 SHERCO 2.9 AND I GOT A NEW REAR FENDER AND DECAL WITH IT AND IT REALLY LOOKS LIKE A PAIN TO PUT THE DECAL ON, I'M WONDERING IF THERE'S ANY TRICKS TO IT OR IF I SHOULD JUST WING IT AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS? IT IS SO BIG AS A ONE PIECE DECAL AND IT'S STIFF, AND DOESN'T LOOK LIKE IT WILL FIT RIGHT? IF I LINE THE FRONT UP THE BACK IS OFF AND VICE VERSA, JUST CURIOUS IF THERE'S ANY TRICKS OR NOT? THANKS FOR ANY HELP!

[jaylael]

Google search decal application. Lots of companies have decal application step by step guides. The gist of it is use a hair dryer, mark your corners lightly with a pencil before you peel off the backing, once it is in position on one end, carefully peel the backing and roll it away as you massage the decal from the center to the edges, working your way from one end to the other. On a rear fender I think front to back would be easier. The heat from the blow dryer should make it easier to bias the decal to where it is centered, and aid in massaging out the bubbles. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[motofire]

The way I do it with great success is to take some Windex and spray it liberally on the fender, then I spray some more and apply the decal on the wet fender. It will give you plenty of time to adjust as needed. Then I work the fluid out with my hands. It helps to warm the decal up prior to application. Just warm it so its pliable...not melted ...Oh and prior to application use Iso Alcohol(rubbing) or denatured alcohol to clean the area prior to application of windex.

They do make decal pre application fluid, which I have used but windex works the same.

[copemech]

I just replaced one, and yes they take some work. Mine turned out good, better than factory.

If it is cool in the shed og garage, below 50f, use rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. Clean the frnder with it and then peel back the whole decal and spray it down good. This allows you to re position things easily.

I started from the rear tip working foreward, about 3mm from the edge. Work from the center outward aligning key points, next being the center cutout. Use your fingers to maintain the 2-3mm edge distance all the way down both sides to the front point. If you need to stretec or re position, do it now.

Then work the centerline toward the screw hole on front, pressing only in the center and letting the sides flap UP.

Once the entire center part is stuck, work outwards.

Then use the hair drier to heat, stretch and work the sides until all the cutouts align with the cutout holes, still working from the center out. The front "flaps" will roll down nicely with a bit of care and stretch. Your front edge is the last key point. The stuff is amasingly flexable and really does not stick well cold, and with the spray.

Hope that helps!

[butt mooar]

I can,t believe there are websites on how to fit stickers/decals!

[dougie pumpkin]

Best thing i have used is a soapy water in a spray bottle (a few drops in a bottle is all thats needed), this allows you to move the decals around very easily without them sticking and getting them in the perfect place, once you have got the desired position and as long as they are laying flat with no bubbles, just leave it to dry naturaly and then the adhesion will take place, if they do not lay flat, then a hairdryer will need to be used to speed up the process. This is what i do anyway, and it works a treat. good luck in which ever way you decide to do it.

[copemech]

The Iso Alcohol is a pro trick for cold conditions.

The standard soap mix is a 1% solution(approx 2 drops) of Lanolin free dishwashing detergent(Dawn, Joy or Dove) per quart of water.