neonsurge Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 What (if anything) did you guys use to re-seal the manifold after removing the reed block spacer? I gather there's quite a bit of sealant in there from the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 Neon, there was so much crap (old Jelly like Sealant) in my block I was amazed the bike ever ran at all. Most of it was hanging into the intake. I cleaned it all up and just used the blue gasket sealer you can buy from any motor centre etc. Bike ran alot better once it was cleaned up and I think alot of my initial running problems were due to the mess Beta made assembling the block. Ssiegmund I have Boyesen dual stage reeds in mine and they are are really good buy, increased low down grunt loads and the bike is next to impossible to stall at low grunty revs, cheap as well at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssiegmund Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 Neon, there was so much crap (old Jelly like Sealant) in my block I was amazed the bike ever ran at all. Most of it was hanging into the intake. I cleaned it all up and just used the blue gasket sealer you can buy from any motor centre etc. Bike ran alot better once it was cleaned up and I think alot of my initial running problems were due to the mess Beta made assembling the block.Ssiegmund I have Boyesen dual stage reeds in mine and they are are really good buy, increased low down grunt loads and the bike is next to impossible to stall at low grunty revs, cheap as well at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssiegmund Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Just went for a ride with the needle in the second groove from the top, 27.5 pilot 145 main, air screw 2 turns out. Definite improvement, crisper, good power through the range. Boyesen 6125 reeds ordered today should have them Friday. Think I'll have a splash of scotch and toast another jetting victory! Thanks again Betarev3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Make sure you keep a good eye on the plug colour first time out incase the bikes too lean, and be really carefull taking the reed holding screws out of the block. The screws are tiny and will round instantly if you use the wrong screwdriver size. Put a little loctite on the screws when you put them back in, going to be costly if one falls out at a later stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssiegmund Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 Make sure you keep a good eye on the plug colour first time out incase the bikes too lean, and be really carefull taking the reed holding screws out of the block. The screws are tiny and will round instantly if you use the wrong screwdriver size. Put a little loctite on the screws when you put them back in, going to be costly if one falls out at a later stage. Right with you on all points. The motor isn't close to lean, I like to think 5% rich for safety and longevity when tuning. I tested +/- 1/4 & 1/2 turn air screw positions from what the motor said was good at a warm idle, with each adjustment I ran a loop over my logs and boulders, lugged it up a 2-1 slope in second gear into a little wheelie/float turn, decel down the hill and back on the throttle was crisp with no lag. Last night 2 turns out provided good torque, no hollow feel, or flighty idle, etc. Considing air density and temp last night 2 turns leave me enough +/- range to cover most air scenarios year round. Regarding Loctite............... it's our inexpensive, silent, and trust-worthy angle. Thanks again for sound advice, it's appreciated. Sieg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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