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Ive Killed Me Gasser!


73anth
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nice thursday afternoon/night down at the charltons, riding through the river, take a detour, waist deep water!!!!

bike dies, drag it out, tried the following.

exhaust off at front.

bottom of carb off.

total air box and filter off.

kicked the sh*t out of it with spark plug out, to get rid of water.

drying plug out, back in, out dry, in, out dry,ect

2 hours later no joy, ended up pushing it out, absolutley knackered!!!!

mate towed me along the side of the main road, tryed to tow it off, no joy.

going to strip it sunday.

remove full exhaust, decoke it.

take cylinder head off, check inside.

new spark plug.

full carb strip.

full airbox strip & clean

full air filter clean & oil.

any advice appreciated, dont change that, check this ,ect..

p.s i know not to ride under water again :)

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Could water have got into the crankcase?

dont know mate, was thinking that aswell. plug has got a good spark, so i think the electrics are ok.

im only a novice with bikes, so any info appreciated!!!

cheers ian :)

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I can remember doing all the things you mention to a Sherco a few years back. Eventually I solved the problem by turning the bike upside down (with the bodywork and mudguard off) resting the bars on a couple of cushions out of the front room, and kicking it over with the plug out.

This emptied the water out of the crank case and that did the trick. After I got it started, I changed the gearbox oil and took it for a damn good ride to make sure everything was dried out.

After everything else you've tried, if this doesn't work you may have blown the head gasket (O ring) so that's probably the next thing to change.

I hope this helps. Good luck.

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It maybe TOOO late.......you need to take the head and barrel off and remove the drain plug, get some std engine oil and pour 1/2 pint into crank area, this will remove and water and crap, but this should have been done asap.Put the d/plug back in and fill again to the top and leave.Buy a new gasket set,

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It maybe TOOO late.......you need to take the head and barrel off and remove the drain plug, get some std engine oil and pour 1/2 pint into crank area, this will remove and water and crap, but this should have been done asap.Put the d/plug back in and fill again to the top and leave.Buy a new gasket set,
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Reeds are broken as water insn't compressible. Replace them with boysen reeds if available. Stock would be fine but is second choice. Rust in rod and main brgs is reason it may be too late. Engine crank does not share gearbox oil. They should be separate. One other possibility is that the main seal on mag side could have been pushed out also by water being non compressible. Note: Never kick your bike over with the spark plug lead diconnected! Either ground it out securely somehow, or at minimum you MUST hold the kill button when kicking over the engine. When I have watered out a 2 stroke in the past, I have had good success with removing the spark plug, and air filter. Turn bike upside down, put it in gear and turn the back wheel until there is no more water mist coming out spark plug hole. Note somehow you have to also ground out the kill button or the high tension spark plug lead. If not high voltage spikes seek their way to earth and usually it is via the switching diodes in the ignnition module, thus bringing about it's premature demise. Note: If bike has a drain plug for the crank case it isn't the one for the gear oil. It would be further forward, about where the crankshaft resides within the engine cases. Once the crankcase is drained, choke the heck out of it, leave the air filter out until she starts. Once it is running, rev it up and clear it out until it runs ok, then while the engine is warming up, (screw in the idle speed screw a bit so you don't have to babysit) squeeze out the air filter and put it back in, and you're off. Good luck, mate. JL

Edited by JayLael
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It maybe TOOO late.......

what do you mean by to late jam??? engine or gearbox seize?

He and I meant that water kills the bearings.

When water is left into the engine for more than a few hours it washes away the oil films and starts with its ugly game called rust.

Although the engine will run properly again the rust in time will ...!!!! kill the bearings.

Especially the lower end bearing will start peeling off its chrome layer.

That is the why you always need to get the egine started as soon as possible to get the bearing turning in oil again, evaporating the water.

Sorry to worry you but as you have not started yr engine by now, very big chance your bearings are ruined.

Edited by gasgas
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It maybe TOOO late.......

what do you mean by to late jam??? engine or gearbox seize?

He and I meant that water kills the bearings.

When water is left into the engine for more than a few hours it washes away the oil films and starts with its ugly game called rust.

Although the engine will run properly again the rust in time will ...!!!! kill the bearings.

Especially the lower end bearing will start peeling off its chrome layer.

That is the why you always need to get the egine started as soon as possible to get the bearing turning in oil again, evaporating the water.

Sorry to worry you but as you have not started yr engine by now, very big chance your bearings are ruined.

can i change the bearings, how long before they fail, how much cost approx???

Edited by 73anth
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I think you need to try and get it going without the top being stripped, see and hear wot it sounds like, get another guy or a handy spanner man to give you a 2nd opinion.

As Gasgas has said, Water will Knacker up the bearings,little end etc if left to long, ie rust to start forming

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can i change the bearings, how long before they fail, how much cost approx???

I can, i don't know if you can :o

My bigend bearing went in one year. Because of water/mud. I was lucky though. I frequently check the piston tru the exhaust side of the cilinder. Just take the pipe off and shine a light. The engine runned flawlesly, so, you see how difficult it is to say when it will go.

I left my engine with water/mud for 24 hours before i went cleaning it. It swallowed water with mud, and i removed the cilinder and engine out of the frame as i was sure it needed really good cleaning.

I washed it with a mix of oil/petrol/wd40 and did this several times.

I thought i had it covered, but apparently not so. The bigend bearings started flaking and the piston showed that as like it had swallowed sand. Piston was completely sanded at the exhaust skirt. That is how i realised it needed a new bigend/etc.

So, when you keep a close eye at yr piston, maybe you can get away with it for a couple of months...

But, writing this, i assume you have it running by now, do you?!

Be aware that when the bigend/smallend goes, piston hits the top and screws up the engine real bad.

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got the parts today, got it running, cylinder head has a bit of a weep,bit of a funny noise,sounds like the pistion is scored, not a knocking noise?

will strip head off and re-seal tomorrow, drop gearbox oil.

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