the addict Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 (edited) Thanks for all the info guys will follow those tips up next week. Forgot to look what size jets are in the Keihin but i do know the pilot is a 45, James was told to stick a 50 in his to help prevent blockages which he ran last year on his 06 Caber with success. Mines running sweet so will stick with the 45 for the time being. No crap in the carb after stripping yesterday and the air filter/venturi the same as well even though it had 5 hours Saturday in the dust, and plenty of mud on the Sunday. The Keihin is a little tricky to remove the float bowl and stick back on due to the angled vent that runs between the floats, very easy to clean though and once James showed the best way to remove the float its easy. James did quite a few nice mods to the wiring loom to make things easier by installing a self made loom to re-link the system together and remove most of the unwanted stuff. Also did a nice bit of work with black silicone on his bike at the point where the mudguard meets the sub frame/airbox to stop any water/dirt getting into the filter. I will have a go next week and post some pics of what he has done on mine and the silicone sealing. Mark I have got the kill switch next to the mental button , pic below, and the Caber had thin vent inserts already on the mudguard but i think i will go with Chriss's idea and pinch the wifes sieve when shes not looking for added support behind the stock mesh. Edited June 5, 2007 by Betarev3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 The more I look at the piccies, those RED rims really look like s$&t! I happen to have a Proper Black set in very good condition that will match your bike perfectly! Just send me the red ones exchange! No charge for the postage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stump magnet Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 i use a peice of open cell foam in the top of the filter for muddy trials to stop large debris getting in and remove it for dry trials no glueing required. Chris wot the hell is that float bowl about, thought you were joking when you told me you were getting one! you should come practicing at raydon on a tuesday night, give david cordal a ring. its a good laf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essex rider Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Chris wot the hell is that float bowl about, thought you were joking when you told me you were getting one!you should come practicing at raydon on a tuesday night, give david cordal a ring. its a good laf. Ahhh jealousy, you know you want one.. im thinking about getting a goldfish to live in there.... The floats just pivot on the pin and cant get stuck like the standard floats, much better idea, just got to get it running sweet now. I gotta get a towbar fitted to my suzuki jimny first, dad wont let me drive the van Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Bike ran really poor for the first hour today and then stopped, lack of fuel feeling so cleaned out the carby and looks like it was some of the tacky stuff they hold the float seal in. Ran perfect after the jets got a blast of air, cleaned up the seal and back out for a few more hours. Suspension is spot on now and the motor is bedding in nicely as well. I am finding the Sherco has to be ridden in a completely different way to the Beta, not abit different but completely different, if its gets ridden like the beta things dont happen, but ride it like it should and you can do things you never thought you could before. It will take a bit of time to ride it right but I am certainly enjoying a learning phase again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I suppose that means you are not sending the red rims, darn it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Sorry mark, no mate, red is the new black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 (edited) Funny you say that! Went to a LARGE local Honda dealer today to witness the trials demo put on there by the shop. Jesse Kempkes, quite good! He does not ride Nationals anymore, just goes for the money, but still a top rider. Anyway, was inside chatting with a mate and comments were made about a bloke walking out of the shop with a new set of PINK tie down straps. Just about that time, a young tart that works there showed up and asked about the comment, stating "Pink is the New Black" showing off some other goods. I can't wait till Ishy hears about this! On another note, as I had not been in a Honda shop in ages, I was surprised to find that Mr Honda has picked up the No-Toil filter oil under there own label, yet still clearly marked as made by No-Toil! Good stuff! Not sure if it is the same there, but worth checking. A bottle of the oil along with the powdered cleaner was ruoghly equal to 8 quid. Lasts me a year! Nice name change BTW! We thought we were going to have to email the Andy! I hope your rims don't turn PINK! ps- Forgot to mention, the no-toil stuff is touted as bio- degradeable as well! Edited June 10, 2007 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 If the rims go pink Mark, I am sure we can do a deal for your black ones the Renthal red rear sprockets go pink after a while so hope the same doesnt go for the Sherco rims as Ralph and the lads will have a field day I have got the bars in the right position at last although they are well forward, bike kept wanting to lift on any sort of climb especially grunting out from nothing feels very comfortable now. I am going back to the standard spring rate as tightening it up a couple of turns has made in to stiff, maybe the bike was set too hard to start with from the factory. It also grips like hell on any climb and is catching me out alittle, you think its going to spin so allow for it but it still drives up, better that way than the other and I should soon get used to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dad- Posted June 10, 2007 Report Share Posted June 10, 2007 If the rims go pink Mark, I am sure we can do a deal for your black ones the Renthal red rear sprockets go pink after a while so hope the same doesnt go for the Sherco rims as Ralph and the lads will have a field day I have got the bars in the right position at last although they are well forward, bike kept wanting to lift on any sort of climb especially grunting out from nothing feels very comfortable now. I am going back to the standard spring rate as tightening it up a couple of turns has made in to stiff, maybe the bike was set too hard to start with from the factory. It also grips like hell on any climb and is catching me out alittle, you think its going to spin so allow for it but it still drives up, better that way than the other and I should soon get used to it. mmmm pink rims !! suits you sir !! nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 11, 2007 Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 My mate in Spain said you need to wipe down the rims with the Oily type sex lube after cleaning the bike, keeps them from turning and makes them shine! Keeps the nipples lubed too! For the spokes, that is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2007 Had the bike 10 days now and I love it, been struggling a little to make the change over as its so different to the Beta, but its great fun learning how to ride it. My main problem has been getting the front to carry on cambers/hills as the motor wont lift the front as quick as the Beta on very lows revs, as a result I have been riding to quickly to keep the revs up and the front is washing out loads. This bike needs and loves the clutch and plenty of it, something the Beta didnt at low revs, use the clutch as the throttle as it should be and problem is solved, well with abit of practice that is. The Beta would pull from zero revs on nearly any hill and virtually never stall even without the clutch, the Sherco wont do the same but that may be simply down to the higher gearing. I have gone one tooth more on the rear which i think is perfect now but still way quicker than my Rev3 gears, I dont want to alter the Shercos gearing any more as the first three are really spot on for anything, i will just have to learn how to use the clutch as the throttle more. A few guys have had a go on the bike now and they all love it, the biggest fans are the Sherco guys who cant beleive how smooth and forgiving the motor is low down and clean pick up, almost like the plodding 320/370 Gassers. Get near the main jet though it will rip your arms off and it grips like nothing else ive ridden so far. This is the only Sherco I have ever ridden so I cant compare it to any others but all have said it is a big difference to what has been so far. I had a feeling the bike would be an animal, but its far from it, its very easy to ride flowing about in sections but will show its dark side very quickly if needed. The bike is incredibly easy to work on as well and well made, all the bolts line up and are good quality and good sizes (no tiny round off things) One of concerns after years of Gassers was it would be a bit of a pain getting to everything easily but theres loads of room everywhere and maintenance is simple to do. The Keihin is a simple carb to work on, bit like the Mikuni without the p iss and the float chamber removal is easy after a couple of goes. I have sealed the top of the subframe to the air box with black silicone which stops any water flowing over the top of the air box into the filter (thanks James for that one) and sealed the rubber strip between the airbox and silencer so nothing will get past there. The silicone sticks to the sub frame like glue but doesnt stick to the air box, so removing the airbox is fine for cleaning, looks quite neat as well. Got a couple of breather pipes for the carb to stop any fuel going on top of the crank case and thats about it. Stuck an inline filter in for good measure and a few lever adjusters (red) and my old raptors fit straight on the Sherco so saved 100 quid there. Had about 2 hours on the bike this evening on the sleepers using the clutch as the throttle and it felt much easier to ride like that, will try the cambers and climbs later in the week and see if the front end moves faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 12, 2007 Report Share Posted June 12, 2007 Sounds as though you are getting a good feel for it mate! May be a bit higher strung than the Beta. I am telling you, riding in 2nd will FORCE you to use the better clutch, even 3rd! Just go try some slippry off cambers in all three! Rev the crap out of it if you like, but learn to apply power smoothly with the clutch! A grassy knoll works well! Then learn the big POP at the end! Will get you up and over things effortlessly with a little jump! The higher gears in the lower revs help keep things more predictable, as they have a strong hit in the mid range with the stock reeds. As things evolve, you can learn to work the power to your advantage. My rear spring is well broken in by now, and even setting it at around 20-25 mm static sag, the first couple inches of range it just sort of floats if you push and pull up and down, very soft. I'm running about three clicks out from full in on the rebound screw. Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 First go in the Mud tomorrow will it grip better than the beta? I have a feeling it will easy will take your advise over the next couple of weeks Mark and ride in 2nd and third to force me into using the clutch and get used to using it as the throttle more. The clutch is so strong on the Sherco it will manage just fine. James came over last night to try out his bike on the Eastend sleeper sections, hes still not getting on with the bike although most of this is because his 06 Caber was so good and bedded in. His hasnt been carburating right since he had it although he did put a 50 pilot straight in as per the 06 and the V Force reeds. Bikes been running abit sick so hes gone back to the 45 which improved it but not as clean as mine yet, now thinking of sticking the standard block on incase the V Force has altered things too much. First 3-4 rides on mine were great, getting on with really well, then i have been struggling a little in getting the front to lift quikly enough on cambers and the wheel pushing. Thought it was the bar positon but after a quick go on James last night all became clear, I had lifted the forks so the tops were level with the yolks as per my Beta with the aim of making the bike lift quicker and easier, it had actually done the reverse somehow? I changed mine back to how it was originally and the problem i have been having vanished . Not quite sure how this works and how such a little adjustment can make so much difference but it did, cant wait to try it on some cambers tomorrow now. All that money developping the bike and i go and mess with the geometry , I will leave the ******* thing alone next time I have a feeling lifting the height on the forks lengthens the wheelbase, dropping it shortens it making the bike easier to lift and react. Something James is abit dissapointed with is the initial power of the bike, its quite lazy to start with, something I was not expecting from a 290 Sherco as well, but will be perfect once i have got used to it more, especially in the slippy stuff. Carby stays amazingly clean compared to the Beta, not much getting through the filter apart from nice clean air, using the much larger twin air filter and it seems to seal better then the stocker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 (edited) Not sure if your new bars have the same TIC marks on them for reference, but at this point I have settled for a position which is maybe half a mark past the center of the top clamps. The tapered bars did a number on me, with no crossbar reference point to the verticle! If you stand the bike up off the sidestand and look at it, I suppose you might say the front edge of the tapered bar is pretty much verticle, with the back edge some bit foreward of verticle! Initially had it set what would be a full mark past on the index, but seemed a bit much. All personal pref you know, but helps with staying centered and specially moving the rear wheel, which I need all the help I can get! Taken with the new Nikon in 3meg mode, this is just redicioulus! Makes the sh%& plating on the bolts stand out! Keep them oiled too! Edited June 14, 2007 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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