copemech Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 I have not tried the V Force reeds, but noting the comments from some on other brands, I would think they are softer and smoother off the bottom with a bigger top end, much like the Boyesens. The Keihin is soft off the bottom too, so the combination of slow timing mode, soft carb, soft reeds? Go figure! It would be interisting to check them against each other with a strobe light to see if they are set to the same timing from the factory. Done before or after lunch(in Spain) and just how much actual difference that switch makes! Ryan says he runs the forks extended in the mud, along with rear set pegs, and dropped in the dry with the standard pegs! Says the pegs are like cheating! I think the rear setting had just as much effect, so you just have to seek the happy spot! But sections vary typically, so what works in one may not work in another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 (edited) Thanks for the pic Mark rode for 7 hours today, mainly on loose climbs and cambers to see how dropping the forks back to standard has done. Bike is now turning great and most importantly lifting easily on cambers and not pushing at all I will be doing 1000 lines tonight "I must not p*** about with the geometry of a trials bike again" x 1000 The bike is lifting so well now and gripping I have moved the bars forward to keep myself ontop of it on steep climbs, where you know the beta would spin the Sherco just keeps climbing and its catching me out abit, not as much but now and then. Moving the bars forward has done the trick and from your picture they look about the same, amybe mine a bit further forward. The motor has decided its had enough of this running in thing and has come to life this afternoon,its feels and sounds perfect, so smooothhhhh and gentle low down. Couple of the lads have been so impressed with the Caber they have ordered them and should be here on Friday, the difference between the standard 07 and the Caber is massive I have been told, like two different bikes alltogether and thats come from a very good centre Expert whos had Shercos for quite a while. If you can get a go on one I would before they get snapped up, I cant compare as this is the only Sherco I have ridden. No mud today which was a bit dissapointing for a change, I was hoping to try it out in the **** before the Trial on Sunday, I think its going to be like a tractor on muddy climbs Not really tried the switch, map one is spot on as it is and I havent noticed anything happening differently on map 2 at any time, keep forgetting its there to be honest untill someone says whats map2 like? **** knows!!!!! is the usual answer to their question. I have a feeling it might make a difference on a big snotty climb maybe?????? but the chances of me remembering to push it are even more slimmer than me actually getting to the top so i might just take the thing off. Its also the only bike i have had that i can do full circle sit down wheelies on Edited June 14, 2007 by The Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 Coming off a Beta, I am somewhat surprised you have not any mentioned of limined steering angles at max turn. When they raised the radiator in the frame on the '06 to make room for the 4T motor in a common frame, it limited the steering stops a bit. To achieve max turn on a Sherco, you still need to lean the bike, of course, and they will turn tight, but better if you can move the rear a bit. The Scorpa seems to turn tighter than anything, but it all has to do with your riding ability and becomes a non issue! The pics of the Caby suggest the rad has been lowered once again by approx 30-40 mm(but not as low as the '05 and back) and the promo states for better cooling! BS! My guess is they figured a way to get the 4T in there and still increase the turning radius! It is ALL good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) The steering caught me out at my first Trial on it, cost a dab tightish turn, body went bike didnt it will only catch me the once now, not noticed it since so must be leaning and using the back. The Beta would turn so much you could almost go backwards on it especially with the locking bolts screwed right in. We looked at the rad drop against an 07 290 and although we didnt get a tape on it,it looks about 40mm or so, gives more room for the filler I expect as that is easy to get off on mine. Edited June 15, 2007 by The Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 Gave the suspension linkages a good clean and grease up tonight, thoughts of Gasser shims/washers and spacers everywhere suddenly came flooding back when I first looked at it. Couldnt be easier though, only 2 captive shims on the whole unit, loads of good grease from stock and the whole job start to finish took 45 minutes including taking the wheel out,greasing and cleaning everything up. Couple of the nuts werent as tight as they could have been so i will keep a good eye on them for the next few weeks. Job was so easy might grease and clean the suspension up every 2 weeks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 16, 2007 Report Share Posted June 16, 2007 Good to do it early on, should be good for a while depending upon how you use the power washer! I would note a few key points, Over pack the rear brake pedal pivot as well, and while you have it off, fill the boot on the rear master with the silecon grease where the pushrod goes in to keep water out. Do the front wheel bearings as well and coat the caliper bolts and pinch bolts on the axle(you do not want them to sieze), light coat on axle of course, so no surprizes between wheel or tire changes. Adding grease to the steering head bearings is optional, but recommendable. Specially if you use the powerwash a lot. Check bolts on brake disks(they use locktite now) but check them gently anyway, along with the bash plate bolts, and the kickstart retaining bolt(lube splines too). Anti sieze the two header pipe bolts. And lube those nipples! Those are ALL the key points I have, that you have not already done, such as the lower shock bolt! Good prep keeps you happy! Well worth it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 17, 2007 Report Share Posted June 17, 2007 You may have red rims, bit I just made these boot guards out of the real stuff. The swingarm guards have been in testing for a while and still look good! As I have none for sale at this time, no one can complain about spamming! Guess I need to take the brush to the chain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted June 18, 2007 Report Share Posted June 18, 2007 copemech i have grown tired of cracking my knees on the master cylinders where the hydraulic lines bolt on under the bars. i'm going to fit gas gas master cylinders and get some hoses made to suit. anyone else done this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 19, 2007 Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 Baldi, Not quite sure how to answer that one. Only time I have that problem is when going over the bars! Are your bars back too far? Are your knees together in the turns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansalton Posted June 19, 2007 Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 copemech i have grown tired of cracking my knees on the master cylinders where the hydraulic lines bolt on under the bars. Knee/shin guards? Like: Selection from Tucker Rocky (not intended to be an advertisement) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted June 19, 2007 Report Share Posted June 19, 2007 Tends to happen when bike stops and you dont expect it to, say riding up a river and dropping the front wheel in a hole or not making it up a step. Bars are forward but being six foot is probably part of the problem. and of course pilot error...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 I have to admit using the knee/shin guards too! Help in this situation, currently use the Answer Products youth style(small in size and good for trials). I never plan to fall, and do not fall often, but some of the stuff we ride, like the granite, is just brutal if you take a knee(or elbow) dab! Creek rocks can be the same way. It will shread you like a grinder.(Wish I had a pic of the divot it took out of the steel frame)! They have saved me a knee cap or two over time! But regardless of the M/C setup, you still have nice lever perches to implant themsesves into your vernerable spots without protection. I had a major bruise in the shin after the little flip dismount from the 4T Beta, and that through the front of the Gaerne boot and everything, took two months to fade! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 (edited) Really getting to grips with the bike now, had the Keihin Kid do some fettling on three cabers today and much cleaner running low down on all of them. James has been running poorly from the off but he did change the pilot to a 50 and fitted V Force reeds before he even kicked her over. He stuck the standard pilot back in today and took the V Force out and it runs alot better, very nearly as good as mine now but still a little rich real low down. Still not found the sweet spot for the bars yet, but will keep trying for a few more days, very near but worth changing untill its perfect. Somrthing to check if you have bought a valve type tank breather, make sure it opens ok all the time, i think alot of James problem was lack of air in the tank, I fitted the REP type which is just a slot (no valve) and no problems at all apart from a little fuel spillage from it on full tank. Edited June 21, 2007 by The Addict Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Just, That is a good point about the tank breather! Can be critical! I have a little blue one too!, Not sure where it came from, as I actually found it in the loop track, buried into the mud a couple years back, good cleaning and still works good! Transferred from bike to bike! Not sure the setup on the factory installed Keihin, but the add on ones only had a bowl vent tube drilled out on the right side and the tube was the first thing to get pinched off against the muff. Clearance is minimal with no "L" fitting facing down. Ambient bowl pressure is critical and these things have to be able to breath, or you cannot reliably suck fuel upstream in the jets. Drilling out the left side vent fixed that, but still used a short hose pointed down to prevent dirt and water entry. The hoses must be short or otherwise fuel trapped in the hose(much like a bubble) can trap air and once again cause a negative pressure differential which causes funny things to happen. A straight open hole will tend to accumulate dirt which may get sucked in, and allows easy water entry to the bowl. M2C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted June 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 One of the biggest differences I have noticed with the bike is the sudden ability to get lift easily, its a real help and if you can pop the clutch it almost flies. Had a few goes today going up and over big root sections and you can virtually miss every one of them, or the nasty ones by pulling the bike up and over. Could do it on the Beta but nowhere near as well, the bike is still nearly impossible to ride without having a hop or flick at any opportunity, its just made to do it, easy to get yourself around bends or out of trouble but have noticed you tend to hop when riding would be fine. Went up a bloody great steep climb today with near vertical last 6 foot which to be honest I really didn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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