columbus Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Anyone can help with advice on C15 . I recently bought a BSA C15 scrambles. I was misinformed as to the Gearbox oil capacity , thinking it 3/4 pint rather than 1/2 pint. This caused the oil seal from the gearbox to the small chain case sprocket to blow. I am unsure how I can get to this oil seal , from the timing /gearbox side or the primary chain case side ? A disaster. Any help appreciated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japes1275 Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 You need to remove the primary chain case cover, remove the clutch (puller needed) which might also need the front engine sprocket and alternator removing, then behind the clutch there is a cover plate with about 6 screws which needs to come off. Then you can finally see the gearbox sprocket. This needs to be removed to get to the seal behind it. Quite often the seal is loose in the gearbox due to it turning and wearing the casing. There are various ways of sorting this, some form of strong epoxy, centre punching the ID of the casing etc. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
columbus Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Many thanks , that's a great help as the service sheets talk of both primary chain and gearbox side removal for access !!! Not sure what you mean by 'centre punching the ID of the casing etc.' and what epoxy for example would be suitable ? Many thanks again , Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japes1275 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Well I'm pretty sure you can change the seal without taking the sleeve gear out! It should be possible but I guess it would be easier with the gearbox internals out and sleeve gear removed. Centre punching is a bit of a bodge to be honest and a last resort. Probably very difficult to do with the engine in the bike. Basically the surface that is worn is centre punched all round it's circumference, the small craters into the soft alloy (or steel in other cases) make the surface slightly higher and give the bearing/seal etc something to grip on. Can also be done on a shaft to help hold a loose bearing race. My B40 has had it done and is still holding ok. The epoxy I use is from work so can't really comment on what brands to use that you might find in the shops. The best ones will be the grey metalised ones, I think there might be one called Permametal. If you've not already got it the best money you can spend on your unit single is the Rupert Ratio engine manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
japes1275 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Something like these products: http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/metal-repair 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon v8 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Something like these products: http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/metal-repair JB Weld works well on Rickman hubs that need new bearings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broony Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 What I did with my C15 was to replace the gearbox bearing with a sealed one(removed one of the seals-gearbox end), I also fitted a sprocket seal aswell (so it had 2 seals).I also ran heavy gear oil(almost like treacle).never had any problems after that. cheers the noo Brian 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
columbus Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Forgot to say I have the Rupert Ratio book - great book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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