270 Txt Oil

[martin 305]

Hi all ihave a 270txt 1999 and am not sure if i can use 700ml dextron 3 to try to reduce clutch drag . Also does anyone know how to drain and refill forks ,how much oil and what grade , There are 2 click stop ajusters on the top of the legs the l/h one is siezed solid not sure what they do, forks still work ok and dont clunck at the bottem , many thanks to any one that can help.

[lpd]

Hi all ihave a 270txt 1999 and am not sure if i can use 700ml dextron 3 to try to reduce clutch drag . Also does anyone know how to drain and refill forks ,how much oil and what grade , There are 2 click stop ajusters on the top of the legs the l/h one is siezed solid not sure what they do, forks still work ok and dont clunck at the bottem , many thanks to any one that can help.

Not sure about the dextron, but I believe it should be about 300cc for forks drained and refilled. I think that there is a small drain screw at the bottom of the fork that you remove. Its helpful to remove the top cap on the fork leg (looks like you should remove yours and clean them anyways). I find it drains better with the caps off of the leg. Also I think 5 wt for leg oil is recommended. The clickers are quite simple. There should be a set screw (hex) on the side of the cap with a spring and ball bearing inside to set the clicks. Your are probably set too deep or dirty adn ceased. Just take out the screw, clean the bearing and reset so that it clicks freely. Thats my two cents.

Edited July 8, 2007 by lpd

[martin 305]

Hi all ihave a 270txt 1999 and am not sure if i can use 700ml dextron 3 to try to reduce clutch drag . Also does anyone know how to drain and refill forks ,how much oil and what grade , There are 2 click stop ajusters on the top of the legs the l/h one is siezed solid not sure what they do, forks still work ok and dont clunck at the bottem , many thanks to any one that can help.

Not sure about the dextron, but I believe it should be about 300cc for forks drained and refilled. I think that there is a small drain screw at the bottom of the fork that you remove. Its helpful to remove the top cap on the fork leg (looks like you should remove yours and clean them anyways). I find it drains better with the caps off of the leg. Also I think 5 wt for leg oil is recommended. The clickers are quite simple. There should be a set screw (hex) on the side of the cap with a spring and ball bearing inside to set the clicks. Your are probably set too deep or dirty adn ceased. Just take out the screw, clean the bearing and reset so that it clicks freely. Thats my two cents.

Thanks foer that will check that out ,

[peterb]

Hi Martin,

With 700ml of ATF (rated to Dexron III) in the gearbox and the clutch is dragging means there is another problem. Usually these clutches work well. Problems could be with the master cylinder seal passing - easy to replace and not expensive, slave piston may have the ball bearing, that pushes the clutch push rod, become pushed back into itself - happened a few times and just needs a slave piston kit, or worse case and not impossible, is that the clutch fibres have started to come unstuck from their metal plates. Best to check the plates first as this is easy to do.

Use 280ml of 5 weight in each leg of the forks.

Bye, PeterB.

[martin 305]

Hi Martin,

With 700ml of ATF (rated to Dexron III) in the gearbox and the clutch is dragging means there is another problem. Usually these clutches work well. Problems could be with the master cylinder seal passing - easy to replace and not expensive, slave piston may have the ball bearing, that pushes the clutch push rod, become pushed back into itself - happened a few times and just needs a slave piston kit, or worse case and not impossible, is that the clutch fibres have started to come unstuck from their metal plates. Best to check the plates first as this is easy to do.

Use 280ml of 5 weight in each leg of the forks.

Bye, PeterB.

Many thanks for the info i will look at that, cheers