beta bodger Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 (edited) I was a bit shocked to see the carb breather pipe had melted right through on the exhaust side With this in mind I am now keen to replace the pipe and protect the more important fuel pipe that also had a tendancy to rest on the exhaust. Not good. I am running the Keihin carb so there is not much room for the pipes. I am quite suprised how hot this Sherco runs to be honest, the engine warms in no time compared to a Rev3. What do you use if anything to protect this pipe? I was thinking of getting some stainless braid or even some heat resistant pipe. Would aluminium heat resistant tape be enough should the pipe rest on the exhaust? Edited October 2, 2007 by Beta Bodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 NO! You must remove the hose as there is no space for it! You can also drill out the orface on the other side and run a short hose downward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta bodger Posted October 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 NO! You must remove the hose as there is no space for it! You can also drill out the orface on the other side and run a short hose downward. Im not sure if your serious or not???? Anyway I am not about to start driling my nice Keihin to re route a pipe. Stainess steel braided hose seems the answer but not sure where to get it from in the size/length i want?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcr500 Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 (edited) NO! You must remove the hose as there is no space for it! You can also drill out the orface on the other side and run a short hose downward. Im not sure if your serious or not???? Anyway I am not about to start driling my nice Keihin to re route a pipe. Stainess steel braided hose seems the answer but not sure where to get it from in the size/length i want?? Stainless Braided brake pipe would do it as long as it wasnt too stiff. You can get larger diameter stuff like they use on cars or perhaps braided steel breather pipe from a 4X4. Edited October 1, 2007 by madcr500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Yes, quite serious! Or you might just try beating the muffler into submision! Not sure it would not still melt or kink a braided line, can't trust it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beta bodger Posted October 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 I always think a picture is a thousand word so here goes: This shows the fuel pipe resting on the exhaust http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/1472547573/ This shows the breather pipe against the exhaust http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/1472546535/ Another shot of the pipe http://www.flickr.com/photos/12077623@N08/1473396600/ Should I just leave the pipe as is? I am quite concerned it will melt like the last breather pipe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 (edited) Ok,Ok, first the fuel inlet line. You may need a bit longer hose so that when it comes out of the tank valve it runs either around the clutch hydro line or just near enough to it so that you can use a ty-wrap to loosely support if needed(which totally pulls it away from the muff), then route it toward the fuel inlet of the carb and running just in front of the verticle(slide)area and the verticle pipe. This routing keeps things tidy and also gives you plenty of hose to work with when removing the tank. See pic of the dellorto. Second, the verticle tube(vacume) on the engine side of the carb. Not sure where you have that hose running to, but the thing needs to be capped off. Thirdly, I always run the crankcase vent line under the manifold then up and over, between the fuel line inlet and carb body, then down to the skidplete at the rear. Which then brings us back to the bowl vent, well I done talked bout that and that's all I'm saying except I will tell you that even fuel slosh allowing fuel to accmulate in the line can cause a negative bowl pressure and erratic running. I run only very short tubes on the dellorto to prevent this. Another reason why two is better than one! But as there is no elbow on the K carb? No hoses at all from the factory standard bikes anymore because of these issues. Still not quite sure how the Caby bike comes. M2C ps- the Tygon works well, stays flexable, and lasts, does not like excessive heat of the muff, therefore proper routing is neccessary, not optional! Edited October 3, 2007 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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