ruffrider Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 Hi, My lad, RockDan, was out practising on his '04 125 last night. Going over a log he blipped the throttle and it stuck on, virtually full. Needless to say he had a big crash ..... all character building stuff ..... (He'll kill me for putting that) Anyway, looking at the twist grip there's now about an inch of play in the cable outer. So I'm guessing there's a problem in the carb which we'll have a look at over the weekend. Before we start, anyone got any suggestions on what we should be looking for or problems we might find? Any tips on getting the carb off/on (the last time we took it off it was a real pig to get back on)? We'd really appreciate any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 12, 2007 Report Share Posted October 12, 2007 (edited) May be caused by dirt/ water entry binding the slide in the bore. You MUST inspect air filter and airbox(before riding) specially after washing the bike! You may blow water up under the mudguard which enters the filter, then washing the dirt along with it through the filter and ends up lying in the bottom of the airbox. Hit a big bump and it all goes sloshing up into the carb(and motor) and the grit will stick and bind the slide from returning closed. This seldome happens from normal riding, yet there are other precautions for extremely muddy and wet conditions. Remove carb and clean thoroughly, NO GRIT! Wash out the airbox with soap and hot water! Hope you do not ruin your piston and main bearings! I have found that it is mostly best to simply remove the mudguard and filter(and fuel tank) prior to a wash. Block the air inlet and exhaust then go about cleaning the bike. Inspect airbox and clean/inspect or reinstall air filter and reassemble all 4 or 5 screws worth. Good to go! Practice makes it simple procedure, and a good one! An occasional inspection, cleaning and lube with light oil of the throttle tube on the bars is important as well. Hope that helps, cheers, MC Edited October 13, 2007 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoholic Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 (edited) Before we start, anyone got any suggestions on what we should be looking for or problems we might find?..sounds like the carb slide is stuck at the top of the carb and the return spring is unable to overcome the stiction - time for a good cleaning. Check the throttle cable isn't pinched after the unplanned 'get off' - anytime before starting the engine always listen for the 'clunk' of the slide hitting the idle screw at the bottom of the carb bore, . Any tips on getting the carb off/on (the last time we took it off it was a real pig to get back on)? Don't separate the carb and the airbox, just loosen the inlet manifold hose clamp, and remove as a complete assembly, making the alignment much easier on re-assembly. If you must split the two then loosen the rearmost clamp that squeezes the carb hose onto the airbox outlet, but not the one clamping the hose to the carb (pigs snout!) We'd really appreciate any advice. ..always listen to Copemech, ..and take a look at the sticky service manuals at the top of this forum Sherco Manuels Edited October 13, 2007 by Shercoholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruffrider Posted October 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Hey, Thanks for the help. I do bow to copemech ... He always has a credible opinion. I think you could be right about the grit in the slide. We studied all the links on the sticky when we bought the bike. But I thought I'd ask before we start delving - problems like this usually end up being common problems. Shercoholic, this made me smile, that's exactly what I did wrong when I first took the carb off. Point taken and thanks. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruffrider Posted October 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Guys, You were absolutely right. Carb barell had it's fair share of crud and the slide was stuck at the top. Cleaned it all out and yes, keeping carb and airbox as one did make installation easier. We also cleaned out the airbox. Has anyone found putting a drain in the airbox a good idea (I remember seeing some posts a long while ago about it). Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 Aye, well hard learned lesson there. Been there, done that, and let me tell you, when you stick a 2.9 at WOT, well, things can get ugly quick! Best advice is never to chance it. Don't even start it after washing without a ck! Even just using the hose, no less high pressure! Fact is mine is sitting there waiting inspection, as I got lazy and did not disassemble things after stopping for a wash on the way home from a 2 day last weekend. Got to do it tonight so I can get in a bit of practice tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted October 22, 2007 Report Share Posted October 22, 2007 Ive put a drain on my air filter box using a non return valve from a petrol breather tube. I drilled the airbox and fitted a tyre valve then put some petrol pipe on the end of it and a non return valve on the end of the pipe which sits in the back of the sump plate. The valve wont allow muck to get sucked in but will let water out. Handy if its tipping down with rain and the rivers are full as it lets water out if it gets past the filter. Copemech is right though , you need to clean the filter box after every ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruffrider Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2007 Cheers Baldilocks, that's the sort of thing I remembered and am thinking about adding. The lad rarely goes thro water, but yeah, point taken about cleaning it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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