Wanted Bultaco Mechanic In Hants Area !

[swooshdave]

Martin, do you mind starting a new thread with your issue?

Although you may have a similar "no run" situation, the cause may be something different.

In your new thread please provide more details, such as model, carb, timing settings, spark plug type, etc.

As with Greg, provide pictures whenever possible.

I have an idea but need your details.

[john collins]

Gregr - I think I am starting to think like swooshdave - you are overcomplicating things - or perhaps just like spending money !

Bultaco LT coils very rarely give trouble - which is why I asked you to investigate the re-wind situation in beginning. Often re-winds appear OK - but do not always do job.

The original LT coils are very good - and the problems only usually arise when someone has been "at them" - most usual abuse is when someone " bruises" wires - because they have tried to get flywheel off without holding tool ( simple to make) - and have poked something through window holes - and then damaged LT coil - you will actually be surprised how many still functiion even after this - and your talk of repair with nail varnish leads me to think this may be the situation in your case.

Other problems have arisen when someone has tried to solder tags/wires onto original wire - which can become brittle wuith age - and these repairs sometimes result in a dry solder joint - or leakage to earth when too thick wires/blobs of solder etc

Until last 4 years ( when ACU got me!) I have been building about 30 Bult motors a year ( for about 20 years) and rarely have I had trouble with LT coils unless the previous owner got there first!

On the condenser issue - as others have said - it does not really matter where you put it - I actually have mine outside now - but previous owner had done this - and I just left it there.

I usually leave then as standard - and I tend to think until you get bike running OK - this may be best option for you - as standard is often best.

I have never really bought into the condensor getting hot argument.

I used Bultaco's for years in Brit Champ and other Enduro's when they were a zillion times harder than today at both Expert & Clubman level - they were mudbaths in those days ( Beacons once had 100- 150 starters and 12 finuishers I think - including me on Bultaco)

I also used Bultaco's in several of Weston beach races inc the first - and they certainly got hot - but I never experinced ignition problems. I think the main reason for moving condenser out of flywheel years ago was to make it easier to change if there were problems - and many people used a 2 condenser system ie monted a spare - so if you suspected trouible - you couldjust externally switch to a spare one.

The Bult ignition is often much maligned - usually because people have messed with it - or not put a set of points in for years - or more commonly not fitted new ign cover gasket or repared back of ignition case - and then in comes water - maintain it - set it up - and use good gasket etc and you will have no poblems.

I am not a particular fan of electronic ignitions - especialy when they get older - and tired - just look at the problems you hear about with older Beta, Sherco systems? - also older Fantic 200?

When I rode Pursang's in Enduro - first job was to ditch the electronic system and fit points - this was not just me - I think Mick Bowers and John May did same - and they were a bit special.

Now forget messing about with double LT coils- as swooshdave say's you are going over the top.

Just make sure your original Bult coil is OK and fitted correctly - I have never taken readings ( I am not an electrician) ) - so cannot help you here.

If you disconnect all the wires and turn engine over fast via kickstart ( with hand when plug is out will do) - if you touch black wire to cylinder - or just scrape it along fins - you will see low tension comming through in form of bright yellow sparks.

If it is sparrking here - and then you connect it up as we have previously informed you - and checked with bulb tester or meter that points are opening and light is going out - as prev explained - when you connect all bacjk up - you should have a good blue fat spark at plug?

Try starting bike now - making sure it is not flooded from previous attempts - and use a new plug - do not start worrying about plug grades - as long as reach is same - it will start on anything.

I am fairly sure your ignition is now OK - next I am wondering why you are playing around with carb. Did you post that you had a Mikuni fitted ? if so why? The 250 would have a square concentric Amal fitted - which is an excellent carb and easy to maintain - and while the 350 has a Bing which can be a pain - I am not sure of the sense of fitting anything different to Amal - for normal riders to 250 - or have I read it wrong?

[gregr]

Gregr - I think I am starting to think like swooshdave - you are overcomplicating things - or perhaps just like spending money !

Yes to the first , not really to the second ..otherwise I would have spent