mcman56 Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 I'm considering a muffler repack on a 2.9 and did a search for old posts. There are some pictures for the cutting and welding but I also see some references to using rivets for reassembly. This would really ease future repacks but all of the links to pictures are dead. Does anyone have pictures or links to pictures for reassembly with rivets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rl Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 It's all here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....&hl=exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1rl Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 and here: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....4&hl=repack http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/upload...-1106700014.jpg http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....&hl=exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 When looking through these posts there are two people that mention a riveted assembly. "Chris" has a link to pictures on trialstalk but the link is dead. The "French Guy" has a link to a French site but I don't see anything there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 I have a set of plates that came from Chris in Atlanta for a muffler I have apart in my shop. They are definetely sweet. Will try and grab a picture tomorrow for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 Al, Do you think it helps to try and flush these thing out with solvent or something periodically? Burn them out? Some seem to "load them up' badly. I try to run the bike hard to get some heat in them on occasion, get some smoke, plus use the K2 synthetic, never really had a problem, although I am sure there is some build up in there. My theory would be something anong the lines of the fact that the "glass" may get packed solid, thus allowing excess internal pressure build which then takes out glass fiber and all. In other words, clog up, then blow out the innerds! So preventing the initial clogging may be the key? What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 Al,Do you think it helps to try and flush these thing out with solvent or something periodically? Burn them out? Some seem to "load them up' badly. I try to run the bike hard to get some heat in them on occasion, get some smoke, plus use the K2 synthetic, never really had a problem, although I am sure there is some build up in there. My theory would be something anong the lines of the fact that the "glass" may get packed solid, thus allowing excess internal pressure build which then takes out glass fiber and all. In other words, clog up, then blow out the innerds! So preventing the initial clogging may be the key? What do you think? I like the long hard pull in a high gear to get the internals burning and cleared out occasionally, I also occassionally swap between the kids bikes and mine, not sure why, but mine seems to get cleared out a bit more then Christina's ( But Dean's stays pretty clean ) At that though, I do believe it is a consumable product, and over time, you consume, wear out, blow out, melt down or something that stuff out of there. My advice would be to run the oil as reccomended by RYP, Run them hard on occasion to blow out accumulated gunk, and then change for a new one after several years. Will try and get some pics this evening, the plates Chris made are very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ishy Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 Best tune up you can give the bike for around $200 or 100 quid, well worth doing every year, sell the old one to some bugger who's happy to cut them up and repack them. Lot's of tight assed packers on TC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Well some of us tight buggers are just not as well off as you rich folks John, but we do have TIG welders So quit dressing your dog up in a wig and Oh, well, never mind... Anyway, here are the shots, yes, my camera sucks, yes, my wife has a good one, no, I am not getting it out to shoot pictures of this thing. Really though, if you need better shots I can get them, it just takes more manipulation to do them with the wifes camera. Trying to remember the order that Chris put the parts together in and the why's. I have been splitting in half and just going back together with them. They are NOT worth doing if you value your time at all, however, I use them as something to keep my Tig skills up (theres fodder for you ish ) and happen to have the stuff sitting here to do it. If someone wanted to pay me to do it, I would tell you that you would be better off buying new. I doubt a good welder would charge you less then it would cost to buy new. It is a pretty fair amount of TIG time to get one back together. I think Chris did his all with screw's / rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Gee, that stuff looks really good, what do you do with it? What is "tig time" ? Is that sort of like my "no time"? I did crank up the "Big Mig" this year to do some trailer repairs for a friend, does that count? I can burn on that heavy stuff all I need, no prob! It does not evaporate in front of my eyes! The Tig unit has sat all year and then some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Thanks....the pictures are not bad but now I'm a little confused. I see two punched sheet metal plates with holes for rivets or screws and one cover plate. How does all of this go together? Do you weld the punched plates to the muffler....one in front of the central barrier and one behind? Are there actually two cover plates...one front and one back? Or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Thanks....the pictures are not bad but now I'm a little confused. I see two punched sheet metal plates with holes for rivets or screws and one cover plate. How does all of this go together? Do you weld the punched plates to the muffler....one in front of the central barrier and one behind? Are there actually two cover plates...one front and one back? Or? Sorry, I probably confused it because of the way I did the picture, I just wanted you to see all the parts in one shot, and what you are essentially seeing is two methods or manners of doing it. Manner A: This is what I do, I cut along the welded seam and seperate the "right" half from the "left" half of the muffler and it ends up like what you see in the top part of the picture. Top is a complete, next down is the left or bottom half with internals still in it, notice the baffle sits there and the spot welds are drilled off, then next down is the "right" or outer or top half (which is not really half but whatever) That is how I cut them apart, then I clean them up, then stuff the front with steel wool, or stainless steel wool, and the back I like the Silent Sport packing. (I think it is the same as the "moose" stuff) then I weld the two halves together. Manner B: The bottom three articles in the picture are what Chris M from Atlanta made on a CNC router, and as he said, the nice part of CNC is you can make more pretty easy once you have it dialed in. I do not remember the entire deal, I believe he did his, and I think I looked at it, but do not remember that clearly. Anyway, his approach was to cut the area out where those reinforcing plates went. If I remember right, he put the "open" reinforcing plate Under, the webbed reinforcing plate over and capped it with the cover plate which is on the bottom. Again, I am not positive, but I believe he rivited the two plates onto the base, I believe he also riveted on nutplates to the under part, then screwed on the top cover plate. If I use those parts, I will probably weld all the plates in place with spots and rosettes. My concern is I bet it will be fairly difficult to get a good cleanout, and a good repack with a limited access port. Have not done it though so I really do not know. Does that answer your questions better? Are you welding it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I don't have the skill to do that kind of welding. (someday I need to take a class) What do you think a shop would charge? I ordered some parts at RYP this week and inquired about muffler prices. The guesstimate was around $270. (I did not ask to check the actual.) Delivered, that has to be close to $300. Another option is what patoche did. Not as pretty as welded but looks like something the average person could do. It may be worth a try before throwing the existing one in the trash. http://ppat61.free.fr/Sherco/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I've burnt mine out a couple of times since we spoke about it a couple of years ago. Seems to rejuvinate it fairly well. Now this isn't for the faint hearted, and I must put in a disclaimer here that if you want to burn your exhaust out you absolutely do it at your own risk, but here's what i did: Soaked the silencer in fuel, for an hour or two. Put the silencer in the middle of a large patio area, carefully at arms reach applied a blow torch to the end of it. Burns like wild fire for 20 or 30 seconds, then dies down to a small flame. At this point I blast it with a compressor to provide the oxygen, swapping ends now and then. It turns in to a blue flame and sounds like a jet engine. Kept this up as long as i could keep it burning for. I repeated the whole process MAKING SURE IT WAS ALL COOL BEFORE APPLYING MORE FUEL. (next day in my case). It's been clean as a whistle since. I know I said I've done this twice so it sounds like it's really temporary, but one of them was a second hand one off a 125 which was full of oil when i bought it (after I bent mine beyond easy repair). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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