taylo63 Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Hi All i'm looking for a bit of advice...I have an 06 rev 3 which recently started to leak water from around the pump cover. I took said cover off and noticed that the bottom half of the groove in which the gasket / o ring sits had completly corroded away !!! I managed to stop it leaking with a silicone sealent, but since then I have noticed, when the engine is running, that the gearbox oil ( when viewed from the gearbox oil viewer) looks white. There is also a noticable amount of coolant missing after each ride but there is no evidence of oil in the water. I also checked behind the impeller but there was no corrosion, none that I could see anyway.... Do you think that the seal is at fault ??, considering the bike is not yet 2 years old I would be surprised if it is. Any thoughts comments would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christoff Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 (edited) Hi All i'm looking for a bit of advice...I have an 06 rev 3 which recently started to leak water from around the pump cover. I took said cover off and noticed that the bottom half of the groove in which the gasket / o ring sits had completly corroded away !!! I managed to stop it leaking with a silicone sealent, but since then I have noticed, when the engine is running, that the gearbox oil ( when viewed from the gearbox oil viewer) looks white. There is also a noticable amount of coolant missing after each ride but there is no evidence of oil in the water. I also checked behind the impeller but there was no corrosion, none that I could see anyway.... Do you think that the seal is at fault ??, considering the bike is not yet 2 years old I would be surprised if it is. Any thoughts comments would be appreciated. Taylo63 I would be surprised if the seal wasnt your problem. If the case is OK there isnt much else. Seals can go very quickly on these, especially if left to stand for a while. Put a new seal in an change the box oil every ride or trial for the next 3 rides. That should sort it. good luck Edited November 26, 2007 by Christoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr34 Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 i had the same problems but on a much older rev 3 i would recommend replacing the whole case not just the pump seals i wouldnt be surpised if the case was porous as its magnesium & as youve allready stated the bottom half that holds the pump cover seal in place has corroded phone either your local beta dealer or john lampkin imports for prices as i recall it cost me about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mad4it Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Some of the casings as already said are of substandard grade and corrode away ! speak to lampkins about it i,m sure knowing him he will help you out even though it is out of warranty as said it is a known fault! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylo63 Posted November 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 Thanks for the replies.. I did give Lampkins a call recently but he was'nt that interested. All he offered me was a new case for about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonsurge Posted November 26, 2007 Report Share Posted November 26, 2007 If you're confident that you've repaired the leak properly then the oil going immediately milky after starting the bike is nothing to worry about. If you're at all worried, drain the oil with the engine stone cold - if it's normal then everything's fine. Seriously, every one of my Rev3s has been the same - oil looks fine with the engine cold, start it up and it goes white in about a millisecond. Sorry to hear you're not happy with the service from JLI. In my experience they're incredibly helpful (and patient!). In fact I can't honestly say I've got any complaints about ANY of the trials importers - guess when you're in such a small market it pays to keep the customer happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggins Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 (edited) Got to agree with Neonsurge Lampkins have always been fantastic when Ive had a problem with my Betas. Maybe John was having a bad day. Stick with them mate they are top blokes ....hope your oil/water problem is sorted cheers Leggins Edited December 3, 2007 by leggins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tilertrialler Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 Hi All i'm looking for a bit of advice...I have an 06 rev 3 which recently started to leak water from around the pump cover. I took said cover off and noticed that the bottom half of the groove in which the gasket / o ring sits had completly corroded away !!! I managed to stop it leaking with a silicone sealent, but since then I have noticed, when the engine is running, that the gearbox oil ( when viewed from the gearbox oil viewer) looks white. There is also a noticable amount of coolant missing after each ride but there is no evidence of oil in the water. I also checked behind the impeller but there was no corrosion, none that I could see anyway.... Do you think that the seal is at fault ??, considering the bike is not yet 2 years old I would be surprised if it is. Any thoughts comments would be appreciated. I have just done a trial today on my 06 beta, which i have owned from new, and have had exactly the same problem. removed pump cover and casing is eroded badly around rubber seal mastic worked to finish trial, but should I leave it like this , what did you do to fix problem looks like a new casing, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylo63 Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 Tiletrialler. I still have not got arond to replacing the casing. The temporary repair i made seems to be holding ok at the mo. In your case, if it is just the sealing ring groove that is just corroded I would be inclined to leave well alone. If however, if like mine it has also corroded behind the impeller then i would change the case. When i enquired to JLI a few weeks ago he apparently had supply problems with the cases (he had a waiting list )....Probably due to popular demand !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoyo Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 I've got an '06 rev 3 too.... There must be something in the coolant which is having a chemical reaction to the casing (Magnesium you say...??) If so there must be an alternative coolant which we could use to prevent this happening in the future.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tilertrialler Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 taylo63 thanks for reply, have just started stripping to replace casing, not a simple little job, clutch has to come off,I have only taken outer casing off as yet, will phone lampkins to see how long before delivery on new casing , before i go any futher. On close inspection it is only corroded through the oring seal to bottom ,not into back as yet , no oil in water, seemed to hold up okay with silicon to finish trial, do you think it would be okay to run for a while like this, what did you do to repair yours. it is really badly corroded will go through the back eventually I think, must be something in water I have never changed mine or even top it up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Hi, I have a 2007 Beta 270 & I thought I would change the coolant, while it was draining i removed the pump housing to check for corrosion & found it or maybe not! The damage to me looks more like cavitation damage, why do I think this? I work on jet ski's & regulary see cavitation damage (erosion) on the jet pump units that are pumps just the same as water pumps on trials bikes. Try a search on google for cavitation Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylo63 Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Tiletrialer. The repair I made was to just fill in any corrosion with a liquid metal. On close inspection mine was a lot worse than I initially thought, especially around and behind the the impellor. Are you sure you have to remove the clutch in order to remove the casing ?. According to JLI he also advised to replace all oil seals and the water pump shaft seal as a matter of course. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codirtrider Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I've got an '06 rev 3 too....There must be something in the coolant which is having a chemical reaction to the casing (Magnesium you say...??) If so there must be an alternative coolant which we could use to prevent this happening in the future.... organic coolant with NO water added from the Web: Fresh Water. In stagnant distilled water at room temperature, magnesium alloys rapidly form a protective film that prevents further corrosion. Small amounts of dissolved salts in water, particularly chlorides or heavy metal salts, will break down the protective film locally, which usually results in pitting. Dissolved oxygen plays no mayor role in the corrosion of magnesium in either freshwater or saline solutions. The corrosion of magnesium alloys by pure water increases substantially with temperature. Organic compounds. Aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons, ketones, ethers, glycols and higher alcohols are not corrosive to magnesium and its alloys. Ethanol causes slight attack, but anhydrous methanol causes severe attack. The rate of attack in the latter is reduced by the presence of water. Pure halogenated organic compounds do not attack magnesium at ambient temperatures. At elevated temperatures or if water is present, such compounds may cause severe corrosion, particularly those compounds having acidic final products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tilertrialler Posted March 29, 2008 Report Share Posted March 29, 2008 (edited) decided to replace casing, clutch does not have to be touched, casing plus all seals ,gasgets and bearing Edited March 29, 2008 by tilertrialler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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