cota kid Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 What are the pro's and con's of having 4RT frame either anodised black or polyester powder coated. Quality of finish, cost and durability. Anyone know anyone in the North Yorks or North East who can carry out the work? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky boy Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 (edited) A friend of mine does powder coating and there is a difference between powder coaters let alone types of finishes! Powder coating gets a bad name from some people, mailnly because they have either had done or seen a finish done by somebody who should be restricted to only doing the bottoms of boats or any other mess that cannot be seen and is inches thick!! If prepared and coated correctly the powder coating will not wear through with abrasion as quick as anodising will. Powder coating can be more susseptable(sp) to chipping sometimes(this is usually down to over thickness) but if the bike lands on a rock, you will see the alloy through anodising also. Me and a friend both have our wheels coated black, his anodised and i got mine powder coated, his show ths silver scratches of alloy up a lot easier and look much tattier than mine!! I dont know the cost of getting one anodised but the firm we use for our anodising has a minimum charge of Edited December 19, 2007 by marky boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialcast Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 (edited) The anodising process Aluminium components are anodised by placing them in an acid, applying a voltage (the component is made the anode -- hence the term anodising) and artificially growing their own oxide to an even controlled thickness. This anodic thickness is not a surface coating, but is integral with the metal so a cut through it will not allow corrosion to creep between the metal and oxide. Sulphuric acid anodising The most common form of anodising is sulphuric acid anodising which offers an anodic film thickness beteen 3 and 25microns, depending on the end use of the components. The lower to middle ranges are ideal for decorative finishes which may be dyed, etched and/or brightened to enhancve the component's appearance. Anodic film thicknesses above 15microns are used for increased durability and external applications, where corrosion reistance and wear are the main criteria. Chromic acid anodising Chromic acid anodising produces an anodic film thickness between 3 and 7micorns. It does not have the same wear properties as sulphuric acid, but is more ductile and has frequent aerospace and militatry application, where it also provides a good "key" for paint and bonding. Chromic anodising is opaque in appearance and has the ability to detect cracks in cast components and emphasise grain structure in forgings. Alocrom Alocrom is the creation of a chromated conversion coating on aluminium prior to painting or powder coating. It provides a temporary protection and has electrically conductive properties. Powder coating Powder coating is an electrostatic process where powdered pigment is sprayed from a gun and is electrically attracted towards a component. Electrostatics ensures pigment is attracted to all exterior faces and no solvent is required. Finishes can range from high-gloss and metallic, to textured or clear. Wet painting Wet painting involves spraying a pigment suspended in a solvent onto a component which is rotated to give complete coverage. Almost any shape of object can be coated, including those with cavities. This website offers much more info on other coatings and i can highly recommend them, I use their Plastisol coatings on my footpegs, and their PTFE coatings on some of my cams. http://www.plasticcoatings.co.uk/processes.html Edited December 19, 2007 by Trialcast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
windlestone Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 Had a close look at an 08 on Sunday. there are thick black plastic frame protectors, similar to Technosyl, on the frame as standard so they will be available to buy with a part number. They are shaped around the frame and look great cover exactly where your boots would rub. Whichever route you take some of those will add extra protection Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cota kid Posted December 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 (edited) The black frame protectors are a must, whatever the finish. PPC sounds like the best option, although I will leave the swinging arm alone, which is what Montesa should have done. Instead I may opt for some Mitani black swinging arm protectors. I reckon a carbon fibre affect would also look the dogs on the flat tank, could this be achieved with a sticky backed sheet of the stuff. Edited December 19, 2007 by Cota Kid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted December 20, 2007 Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 You tightwad, sticky backed plastic, lets call it a blue peter limited edition then shall we. Buy a new one and get it shipped out to the UEA as part of your first months wages? Bet its small change to you now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbo Posted December 20, 2007 Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 Hi, I just did my '97 315r a couple of months ago. I bead blasted the frame, swingarm, rims, crankcase covers etc etc. then Alocromed them and then powder coated them with an architectual grade black satin polyester powder paint. It looks really good to be honest with new plastics and a full set of '03 decals. This finish is very hard wearing - the bike has had one hell of a hammering since then - clubman trials weekly and I love falling off! There's a couple of scratches on it now but nothing major. Word of warning - if you're going to go down this route make sure you use the correct powder paint i.e. a polyester paint. Hybrid paints (i.e. epoxy polyesters, epoxies etc. will "chalk" when used in harsh environments. This basically means they will dull off and eventually start to go brittle and crack! and you dont want that to happen after all your hard work, cos believe me - it takes HOURS to strip the bike down and build it back up! Hope this helps, let me know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cota kid Posted December 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2007 You tightwad, sticky backed plastic, lets call it a blue peter limited edition then shall we. Buy a new one and get it shipped out to the UEA as part of your first months wages? Bet its small change to you now? I can't believe how you can be so cruel and insensitive. As from the 22nd December I am now unemployed.....well until 7th Jan 2008. Bytheway its UAE United Arab Emirates and not UEA which is the University of East Anglia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel dabster Posted December 23, 2007 Report Share Posted December 23, 2007 Thank christ for that having you in Ipswich is too close for comfort . (I love you really!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cota kid Posted December 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2007 Thank christ for that having you in Ipswich is too close for comfort .(I love you really!) UEA is in Norwich and the town of Ipswich is in Suffolk you numbty! Plus of course I'm not talking to you. 90 min winner at the Riverside!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cota kid Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 Got a nice set of 2008 Repsol plastics for when the frame is done. Shame they don't have the Repsol graphics on the inside of the rear mudguard, like the factory bikes do, as pointed out to me by Kinell, but they still look the business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liam87 Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 I scraped my 08 4rt frame at the weekend on a large cotswold stone. It toar the montesa sticker on the left side rail up by the tank and i thought it went straight through the anodising. But after washing it later that evening i was pleased to see that it hadn't marked the frame at all. I can say then that the standard finish on the 08's is very tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgshannon Posted January 10, 2008 Report Share Posted January 10, 2008 I scraped my 08 4rt frame at the weekend on a large cotswold stone. It toar the montesa sticker on the left side rail up by the tank and i thought it went straight through the anodising. But after washing it later that evening i was pleased to see that it hadn't marked the frame at all. I can say then that the standard finish on the 08's is very tough. That, or at least the stickers are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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